RV4driver
US Veteran
Electrical tape. Same stuff we use to cover up the flashing "12:00" on our electronic devices. It's a guy thing.
Gun Graffiti - how to handle?
- Thread starter 125JHP
- Start date
These Goodyears do a decent job as is - even if they are ugly...
I tend to agree that the gun has a history and is good as-is - I will have to think some more whether I want to add, alter, etc to that history or not.
'put a lot of effort into his stipple job, he even got it fairly straight.at least its not a SS# or something else....
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wingcollector
Member
kenv1950
Member
Did you Google that name and see what comes up ?
StrawHat
Member
That electric pencil stuff is not really too deep and should respond to burnishing. To burnish it, you will need a hardened rod that you can rub over the surface. The rod will "push" the metal back into shape and eventually you will have a flat surface. It will take a while, perhaps quite a while and you will need to keep the tool flat to the surface of the frame. You will also need to refinish it.
Kevin
Kevin
You have to understand that years ago revolvers weren't super collector items like they are today. They were tools for many people like a hammer or engraved wrench. It would be impossible to say how many WWII guns had somebody's name etched into the frame -- I've had several over the years. Its funny though, if that was Elmer Keith or Bill Jordan instead of the name Petrucci it would be a different story huh ?
Regards
Even though that would be a lot of hand work, it sounds like a possible method that might work well - do you have any more info/links on specific techniques or even what would make a good chasing rod? I'm gonna have to start digging thru some of my gunsmithing & kinks books.
I keep going back and forth as to whether to muck with it, it is what it is and all that but I'd rather have a mountain scene or rams head.... that sort of thing probably wouldn't take reblue very well but then look at the TC sides.
I'd give it to a good refinisher (maybe Ford's)
and have them remove that and then nickel plate it.
and have them remove that and then nickel plate it.
I agree, but I'll bet that the guy with the big hands would have had a neater job done, so that he wouldn't have had folks wondering who Bill Jordari was.
Kevin if you can pull this off as you say your one heck of an artist cause I've seen some really outstanding planishers including my cousin who routinely restored old car parts for the Harrahs Club in Reno. The Old time Dutch yacht builders were absolute masters of banging on metal or cold flowing with all kinds of tools not unlike old school body men. But I suspect this pencil engraving may be a bit deeper than it looks like .005" or more in spots. I also know too much working of this frame and you run the risk of altering some internals. Love to see you do it though cause this is some old school wizardry that I know works but is almost a mystery today
Regards
Looking closer - Much Closer as under a microscope- reveals some interesting work... It looks like someone took his time with a sharp nail and jewelers loop....
it is very deliberate and somewhat artistic. I better watch myself as its starting to grow on me...
it is very deliberate and somewhat artistic. I better watch myself as its starting to grow on me...
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StrawHat
Member
Morning garbler,
I learned to burnish metal (and wood) nearly 50 years ago when such work was common. I have a couple of tools that make it a little easier but it really is a lot of work, not hard but monotonous.
For about 15 years, Every Italian C&B revolver I owned got the marking burnished so they looked a bit less replica. Those were some really deep stampings but with time and patience they were worked smooth.
A S&W, especially where those marks are would be not too easy but should be doable. The trick I learned was not to put too much pressure but to use many thousands light strokes.
Kevin
Big Cholla
Member
Google "Engine Turning Metal". I would engine turn a strip from trigger opening to the other border and then cold blue it. I don't like the intrusion on 'my' handgun of someone else's name. .............
twodog max
Member
Since you bought it as a shooter if it were me for now I would just let it go. If I just had to do something to it I would send it to a buddy of mine that is in the camo/gun coating business and have him do the process that looks like blue but is called something else I think Dura Blue. I think that would fill and smooth the surface. I have seen pictures of badly pitted guns he has done that looked great.
Kevin. Thanks for explaining a bit of the process. Like I said before I'm aware of the technique but never found anybody who actually had such skills. Its sort of a lost art or maybe an art form that few ever mastered. Either way I'd love to be a fly on the wall while you're working.
Regards
Regards
CScott
Member
You could change your name.
I think that before I did anything... I'd find out who the guy (or gal) was. You might find out that he was a famous mobster which would dramatically increase the value... or maybe he was a famous lawman who shot a famous mobster... I happen to have a pre model 40 engraved with a name that probably doubled or tripled the gun's value. JMHO. You should see what guns engraved with a Texas Ranger's name bring here in my state.
44wheelman
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Set up the frame on a mill on an angle that matches the name on it (stand offs & toe clamps) Take your centercutting 4 fluted mill just wide enough to to catch all the lettering and long enough and just deep enough. What you want to have is a straight slot, .004 or .005 deep that you can fill up with cold blue, or paint, or restamp it with your name or ss#, or the guns nickname....
I get this idea from caliber conversions and this is how they get the old caliber stampings off the gun (either on bbl or on the frame in case of Ruger Blackhawks).
I get this idea from caliber conversions and this is how they get the old caliber stampings off the gun (either on bbl or on the frame in case of Ruger Blackhawks).
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