Gun Safe

BillyJack2012

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
895
Reaction score
376
I'm looking at gettting a gun safe for the house and it looks like prices are all over the board. Any suggestions or things I should consider? Up to 8 rifles, 4 pistols, ammo would be good. Not sure if fire safe is needed yet. Thanks.
 
Repeat after me....Buy two or three sizes bigger...they tend to shrink as your collection grows:)
 
I agree, get one at least twice as big as you need now.

Take a look at Sturdy Safe.
 
There ARE some things to consider when looking for a safe. The door; how thick is it really? Do you have 1/4" of steel, and then a 12Ga steel safe body? If you are spending real money on a safe, look at the door- outer plate. The big, bulky section that holds the lock pins is dressing for the mechanism. I could care less if that stuff is 2" thick. The DOOR FACE is what will get the most attention from the average know nothing tweeker thief. It needs to be at least 1/4" thick, and very well seated, preferably recessed back so a prybar attack will not be able to penetrate it.
To the jack-hole who knows a gun safe, he's gonna cut thru the walls of the safe and never even touch the door. Minimum 12Ga walls on the safe if you have serious value locked up. For simple security, most safes are good enough; they keep kids out of the guns, and keep honest people honest.

If you keep valuables besides the firearms, or have truly rare and expensive guns then step up to a fire safe.
Ammo storage can be done in locking ammo boxes that are similar to the safe, as stack on units or side by side units. I keep a bit of ammo in the safe, but I am running out of room for that. I keep an ammo box along side the safe. It looks like the safe, but is thinner material and not nearly as secure. I pray if they come with a cutting torch or plasma cutter they hit the ammo box before the safe..... the problem will solve itself!!!!!!!!:eek::D
 
I picked up a Cannon safe from Costco for 870 shipped with tax. 200 off and free upgrade to larger safe once I ordered. It's 30 minute firesafe... 650-675lbs. I can't even move this ****. Need to recruit some friends for final movement.
 
Costco has also a medium safe for about $389, not fire safe rated, but a very nice safe. I'm looking into this as well, due to my build up of weapons...
 
If you are going to keep any significant amount of ammo on hand, you will want a separate ammo locker. This does NOT need to be a safe; just a cabinet you can lock. Used 4-drawer office filing cabinets make a good one, as do regular vertical storage cabinets and old refrigerators. The 'fridge doesn't need to work. :)

The only ammo in my safe is 3k of .223 for additional weight.
 
fire safes are just crazy pricey. I just picked up a stack-on steel gun cabinet for $150. holds up to 14 rifles, obviously you can modify it as desired. bolted into the wall and floor and have 3 locking points... seemed plenty safe for me.
 
I'm looking at gettting a gun safe for the house and it looks like prices are all over the board. Any suggestions or things I should consider? Up to 8 rifles, 4 pistols, ammo would be good. Not sure if fire safe is needed yet. Thanks.

Plan on 16 rifles and at least a dozen pistols. Trust me. :D

I bought a large Fort Knox with the Executive door and fire insulation option in 1998 and glad I did. May be overkill for some and yes it cost a pretty penny at the time but aside from my weapons, I keep important papers and such locked up and sleep a lot better, especially when I'm out of town.

Just my .02,

Krusr
 
Last edited:
Get a safe.
Get a safe.
Get a safe.

Get one that is larger than you need right now, and bolt it down.
Since being broken into and losing everything of value, I learned a valuable lesson. I never thought it would happen to me. Who in their right mind would break into a deputy's home, I thought. Boy, was I wrong!

Anyhow, the safe I thought would be big enough has gotten pretty tight over the past couple of years with additional firearms, jewelry, cameras, small electronics, etc.

Buy big! You won't regret it.
 
Check out gun safe sales online. Some of them offer free shipping and installation (putting the safe where you want it to).

Buy big! You won't regret it.


I agree, buy at least a size bigger than you would need right now.
 
BUY BIG!!!!

Like everyone has said buy as big as you can. I found a used Browning fire/gun safe at an estate sale, you never know where they will turn up. Smaller than I wanted, but could not pass up the deal. Still happy with it, but it is FULL. Still looking for another one, it will turn up. Check Craigs list in your area too.
 
WARNING: The following information may ruin your bank account and/or relationship with your wife.

dvor.com has a lot of shooting sales at a time for a little time only, and one of the current ones is a safe. I don't know much about safes, but it seems like a pretty decent deal.
 
fire safes are just crazy pricey. I just picked up a stack-on steel gun cabinet for $150. holds up to 14 rifles, obviously you can modify it as desired. bolted into the wall and floor and have 3 locking points... seemed plenty safe for me.

I can get into one of those with a simple crowbar in about two minutes. They are good to keep the kiddies at bay, but not much else, IMHO.

Better than nothing, though. :)
 
Fire safe will fill with water if you have it in your basement and have a fire. So will the others but dont count on a fire safe keeping guns safe in a fire. Lots of water gets pumped on a house fire and it usually goes to basement.
 
Fire safe will fill with water if you have it in your basement and have a fire. So will the others but dont count on a fire safe keeping guns safe in a fire. Lots of water gets pumped on a house fire and it usually goes to basement.

Fire-rates safes protect from HEAT, not water. None of them have gasketed doors.

Just a reminder - NEVER set a safe directly on a basement floor. Put it on a base made of 2x4s. That will keep any minor basement leaks away from it. Water from putting out a fire is another matter entirely. :)
 
Last edited:
american security is good. as stated, go bigger than you think you need. i got the largest i could fit into a space, wish i would have chosen a bigger space...
 
Great information guys and thanks for the feedback. Took the wife by Gander and looked at the Liberty Centurion 22-Capacity Gun Safe. SHE actually went to it from a smaller one since I mentioned that we should always get bigger than we think we need (forum advice!). From what I see, Gander has a decent price on this.
 
Hey guys, here is a post i did on another forum. I pretty much copied it and pasted it here, so this post is not specific to the questions and comments on this forum. Its still good information and hopefully it will help answer some questions.

Before I start, I have to say that I an NOT a safe expert. My father is a locksmith and a safe technician and I guess you can say I have been his "apprentice" for years. If there is anything that comes up in discussion that I don't know about, I am not going to pretend that I know the answer. However, I will be more than willing to find an answer to any questions you may have. This is my first big write up, so I hope you guys will take it easy on me. Anyway, I'll get started. This may be a work in progress since there is tons of information on safes.

So why bother getting a gun safe? Well, you paid good money for your guns and it would be a shame if someone came into your house and took them from you while you are on vacation. Right? Thats the same logic you could use with all your belongings. A laptop can be replaces and so can your Glock, but only one for those can be used to kill someone. Do you really want some thug running around sticking up liquor stores with your custom 1911? To get a safe or not to get a safe is a discussion by itself. Lets say you have decided to get one. So what should you get?

Safes are a lot like guns. You get what you pay for. You have to look at your situation and ask yourself what you really need. If you have an old .22 bolt action rifle you get at a yard sale and you just want to keep your grandkids from messing with it, you should be fine with a cheap gun safe (or cabinet) from the local department store. If you have an arsenal of weapons that would equip a small country, you may want to get a damn good safe. Research is your best friend when looking for a quality safe. Look at manufacturers websites and compare different models. Check out all the tech specs listed for each safe. Determine what features you really want in your safe. Compare prices and get an idea of what is what. Before you commit to buy anything, go to a local shop that has safes in stock. Look at the different safes with your eyes and your hands. Many times two safes may look identical, but the only difference is the thickness of steel its made out of. The amount of fire retardant material inside the safe may also vary between two safes that seem similar. While you are in the store looking at the safe, ask the sales person to take off the back cover of the door. If they refuse to show you the inside of the door, that is a red flag. They may not want you to see whats inside the door for several reasons. One, they may not want to bother with it. Two, they are afraid that if you see the locking mechanism and bolt works, you might not want to buy the safe. Three, they are hiding something or they lied to you about something. Most people never see the inner workings of the safe they own. Some are very surprised by what they see. Let me show you what I mean...

This is a cheap gun safe from a big box store. Price range 150-250 bucks.

IMG_0379.jpg


See how little there is to it? There is just a very rudimentary combination lock and some thin sheet metal making up the bolt works. But when the back cover is on, all you see is nice shiny, think, steel bolts sticking out of the sides.

Here is another cheap safe.

207210683DSC01877-B-2.jpg


Notice that there is no other material in the door. These two safes are not fire rated. In the event of a fire, everything in these two would be toast.

Now here is a pretty good safe. This would be considered "mid level". This is the kind of safe most people would buy when they want a good safe that is made in the USA, but they don't want to spend a whole boat load of cash. Price range 1000-2000 bucks.

IMAG0241-1.jpg


This safe is fire resistant, so there is fireboard in the door as well as on all sides of the safe. The inner workings of the safe are beefed up with thick steel and there is hardened steel plate under the lock mechanism to help prevent drilling the safe. The actual lock is a better quality lock and there is a relocker build into this model. A relocker is a secondary lock that activates when someone attempts to break into the safe.

IMAG0240.jpg


The relocker is shown here by the red. This is a type of relocker that activates when the lock is punched. What that means is, the dial on the outside of the safe is knocked off and removed. That leaves a small hole in the door. Safes without a relocker can be opened by inserting a tool in the hole and then punching the lock off the door.

The panel show in blue is the only thing holding the spring loaded relocker in place. If the lock is knocked off, the relocker activates and the safe is locked down and can only be opened by a professional. I've seen this stop many burglars.

Relockers are great and you should definitely consider buying a safe that is equipped with one, but lets move on to fires.

There are many different fire ratings and there are different companies that rate safes for fire. The most well know is Underwriters Laboratory. Fire ratings are meant to be pretty easy to read and they should be clearly listed on the door of your safe if it is fire rated. The UL rating label lists a degree and a time. This means that the safe is rated to keep things inside safe from burning for the amount of time listed and up to the temperature listed. Here is a chart of the current UL fire ratings for safes.

One-Half Hour Rated Products - 1550°F
One-Hour Rated Products - 1700°F
Two-Hour Rated Products - 1850°F
Three-Hour Rated Products - 1920°F
Four-Hour Rated Products - 2000°F

This is what my father has come to expect when he opens a safe thats been in a house fire. If there is nothing left of the house except the chimney, everything in the safe is toast. If the house is burnt, but the frame is still standing, there is a good chance that the stuff in the safe is fine. Here are some pictures to illustrate my point.

There wasn't much in this safe to begin with, but after a house fire, there is nothing left.

BrowningAlpine04.jpg


Now here is another safe that faired a little better.

2330398397-25-11_013_Small.jpg


2330398357-20-11_031_Small.jpg


There is no such thing as a fireproof safe. Don't ever let someone tell you that there is. They can be made to be fire resistant but never fire proof.
 
One the topic of water getting into a gun safe in the event of a fire...

Fire rated safes come with a seal around the door of the safe. This seal is designed to expand when the temperature gets to a certain degree. This effectively seals the safe to prevent water and smoke from entering the safe. It is not designed to keep the interior of the safe dry if part of the safe is submerged (like in a basement filled with water) so I would advise against putting a safe in a basement. The door has to be properly adjusted to give a snug fit when closed or there is the possibility for the seal to fail, which is probably the case with many of the safes that suffer damage from water and steam during a fire.

I hardly ever get on this forum anymore, so I may not respond very quickly to any questions and comments, but I'll try my best.
 
GUN SAFE'S

If you are really serious about a gun safe here are a few things to consider. A safe is a one time only expense that should last a lifetime. Get the fire protection. Do not buy a Stack on, a Winchester or a Remington. They can all be defeated with a large screwdrive or a small pry bar. Check for videos on the computer that will show you how. The more expensive safes have stronger mechanism's behind the door that offer extra security, and are worth the extra money. A safe is a tax deduction if you keep tax records in it.
 
some guys can't rationalize a $1000 scope on a $1000 rifle anymore than they can rationalize storing it in a $2000 safe. guns are cheap. scopes are expensive and safes are expensive Safes
 
Considering the value of the firearms in my safe (several of them long out of production) the cost of a top quality safe is a drop in the bucket.
 
More safe advice:

Don't put it in any room where anyone can see it. A lot of these safes are real pretty, but when people see a safe, they start to wonder what is in it that is so valuable. You really don't want this. You don't need exterminators or repair people or casual guests seeing a safe if they don't have to. Likewise you shouldn't be able to see it through a window. Don't put it in your garage, even with bolts. They'll just put a chain on it and pull it off with an automobile. Don't put it in a room where it can easily be tipped over. A lot of these safes are easy to get into if you can tip them for leverage on the door (see YouTube). If you can put in in a tight space that is also good. Many of these safes actually have rather thin walls, and if someone can swing a fire axe at the side they can make an arm sized hole pretty quickly. Thickness of the bolts trumps number of bolts. Make sure door hinges are on the inside (you'd be surprised, many cheap models aren't!). I recomend a dial over an electronic keypad. And definitely get one at least twice as big as you thinkyou need. Once you have one, there is a lot stuff you will suddenly want in there (jewelry, passports, wills, camera equipment) it will fill up real fast.

Last note: when I go out of own, I tape a note to then front of my safe that says "black powder storage - no flames". That will dissuade any serious thief with a blowtorch.
 
Back
Top