Gunslick graphite lube is apparently discontinued & practically unobtainable. I've been using it for 50 years with good results (lubing slide & frame rails). I would like to hear from long-time Gunslick users, what did you switch to, and are you satisfied with what you switched to?
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Gunslick graphite lube.
- Thread starter PJO1425
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Fishinfool
Member
When I was a kid, back in the late 60's, I remember it was a favorite of my father. He particularly liked it on his old model 94 Winchester. That was one slick lever gun. As I got older, and bought my own cleaning supplies, I gravitated to Rem Oil and CLP for most lube needs.
Wanted to add- I remember that stuff was a real pain if you got it on your hands or clothes. Sort of like the graphite lube / anti-seize you buy at auto parts stores. Matter of fact, that might be a substitute?
Larry
Wanted to add- I remember that stuff was a real pain if you got it on your hands or clothes. Sort of like the graphite lube / anti-seize you buy at auto parts stores. Matter of fact, that might be a substitute?
Larry
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Alk8944
US Veteran
"Gunslick" is generically known as "Oildag", a suspension of colloidal graphite in a mineral oil suspension media. Attached is a link to a Bonderite Technical Service Bulletin describing this product in detail. I suspect that "fishinfool's remarks about an automotive graphite-based anti-sieze compound being a good substitute for "Gunslick" is right-on.
https://www.palmerholland.com/Assets/User/Documents/Product/43169/5936/MITM04844.pdf
https://www.palmerholland.com/Assets/User/Documents/Product/43169/5936/MITM04844.pdf
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LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
Outers Laboratories "Gunslick" grease with graphite was a staple for decades. Pretty good lubricant for hard-working bearing surfaces, not so much for small parts and minimal clearances. Every Outers-brand cleaning kit came with a small tube of Gunslick.
In more recent years I have moved toward pure white lithium grease for such uses. Usually available in auto parts stores, small squeeze tubes or cartridge-sized for grease guns. Very inexpensive. Can hardly be said to have a melting point and remains effective even in the coldest climate. Particularly effective when lubricating dissimilar metal surfaces (steel slide on alloy-frame pistol, or similar applications) because it prevents galling of the metals under stress. A small tube (4-oz or so) will last many, many years.
I suppose if you were really into tradition you could purchase a small container of powdered graphite and mix it into the lithium grease, maybe end up with something similar to the old Outers' product. Graphite is frequently used for lubricating lock mechanisms and some automotive purposes, so shouldn't be too hard to find.
In more recent years I have moved toward pure white lithium grease for such uses. Usually available in auto parts stores, small squeeze tubes or cartridge-sized for grease guns. Very inexpensive. Can hardly be said to have a melting point and remains effective even in the coldest climate. Particularly effective when lubricating dissimilar metal surfaces (steel slide on alloy-frame pistol, or similar applications) because it prevents galling of the metals under stress. A small tube (4-oz or so) will last many, many years.
I suppose if you were really into tradition you could purchase a small container of powdered graphite and mix it into the lithium grease, maybe end up with something similar to the old Outers' product. Graphite is frequently used for lubricating lock mechanisms and some automotive purposes, so shouldn't be too hard to find.
deadin
US Veteran
I think "LockEze" is still available. It seems to be a mixture of graphite and kerosene (or something similar). I know for sure it can be quite messy to use.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
ACORN
Member
I buy every tube I find at gun shows priced within reason. Usually $2. My local shop still sells it as of last Saturday. Has it recently been discontinued?
Graphite is old technology for guns and locks. At work we use a Teflon based spray lube for locks. Works well.
I’ve used several different brands of synthetic lube available today and they all work just fine.
I’ve used Gun Butter, Tetra Gun, Rem Oil, Slip 2000, Frog Lube, Lucas Oil, Mobil One, and many others. Never noticed one to be any better than another.
Frankly a good maintenance program is equally as important.
Erich
Member
I agree with Kanewpadle.
I started out with Gunslick graphite grease and moved through Tetra and TW25B (still use the last one) but these days I primarily use Mobilgrease 28 synthetic aviation grease on most things. A giant tube doesn't cost much and should last me the rest of my life (and I've loaded up a dozen syringes to give to friends, too) and the stuff is great. Good enough for the DOD and NATO on their machineguns, it'll probably keep up with my use on my semiautos. Has so far, anyhow.
I started out with Gunslick graphite grease and moved through Tetra and TW25B (still use the last one) but these days I primarily use Mobilgrease 28 synthetic aviation grease on most things. A giant tube doesn't cost much and should last me the rest of my life (and I've loaded up a dozen syringes to give to friends, too) and the stuff is great. Good enough for the DOD and NATO on their machineguns, it'll probably keep up with my use on my semiautos. Has so far, anyhow.
Me too been using it for years......A little dab will do "ya"
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Erich
Member
Just writing back because I tripped over an old partial tube of Gunslick buried in my range box - gave me a grin! 
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Moly can get messy if you put too much.
Moly how to apply it.
Clean the parts you need to lube.
Try a dry fit to feel the friction and drag.
Put some moly on a soft rag. Burnish on the contact area rub it in good.
Remove the excess and feel the friction and drag just with the burnished moly.
Now apply a little moly and assemble.
Run the guns action till it frees up.
Wipe off any excess moly.
Only wipe the gun after shooting, wash the bore that’s it. Leave the burnished moly in it.
There are no instructions on how to apply moly.
This was a problem with using moly coated bullets. Once the moly in burnished into the metal, bores just dry mop it. It will be a light grey in color that’s the moly. Most shooters washed the bores after shooting and washed out the moly.
Moly how to apply it.
Clean the parts you need to lube.
Try a dry fit to feel the friction and drag.
Put some moly on a soft rag. Burnish on the contact area rub it in good.
Remove the excess and feel the friction and drag just with the burnished moly.
Now apply a little moly and assemble.
Run the guns action till it frees up.
Wipe off any excess moly.
Only wipe the gun after shooting, wash the bore that’s it. Leave the burnished moly in it.
There are no instructions on how to apply moly.
This was a problem with using moly coated bullets. Once the moly in burnished into the metal, bores just dry mop it. It will be a light grey in color that’s the moly. Most shooters washed the bores after shooting and washed out the moly.
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CAJUNLAWYER
Member
We use a product called McLube of the sailboats. It is slicker than goose snot and really stands up when used in high load blocks. It is teflon based and comes in spray cans or gallons. I post a link to their web site and note that they have gon into the lubricant bid'ness as well. This stuff in the spray can works well in my 1911 ans M&P9
McLube Products - Release Agents, Lubricants, Anti-stick Coatings, Cleaners
McLube Products - Release Agents, Lubricants, Anti-stick Coatings, Cleaners
