Gunsmithing Hammers

feduncan

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Hi guys. I've been wanting to get a Plastic or Delrin & Brass Tip Hammer for gunsmithing work and was hoping someone could suggest a good general weight for one of these type hammers.
Thanks,
Oddball
 
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Avoid the jewler's brass hammers with the 1/2" diameter face. I got an old heavy one from ebay for around $20. I say that you need the weight for stubborn pins, sights, etc.
 
I have a similar one to the Brownells with the wooden handle and interchangeable tips. I've had it probably longer than most here have been alive. It never has failed me and I rarely need anything else. The phrase, "Get a bigger hammer!" is seldom heard in my household.:)
 
Thanks fellows for the input. I kind of like the one Muss recommended, since you are able to buy replacement tip ends if you need to, and I sort of like wood handles on hammers.
Thanks everybody,
Oddball
 
I make no claims of being a gunsmith but I use the Lyman Brass Tapper. I've had it for, I'm guessing, 30 years or more. Mine came in a kit with a changeable bit screwdriver, with bits and a kinda crappy stubby round ratchet driver, drift and maybe some other little stuff in a Lyman orange plastic box. They don't seem to make that kit anymore but they do still make the same "Brass Tapper" hammer with drift. LYMAN BRASS TAPPER AND DRIFT PUNCH | Brownells
 
Here are some of the hammers I keep in my work shop tool box and the ones laid out on the Work Bench are the most common Smithin' Hammers that I use. The two smallest yellow faced hammers (in the middle) with the Burgundy handles and the 2 oz (all red) Trusty Cook dead blow plastic encased hammer are the most used in terms of GS-ing.

BTW there is still a STICKY on the top of the Smithing section that entitles S&W Forum Members a 20% discount on Trusty Cook Hammers (all made in USA too) :)
 

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I do believe ladder13 is correct. I tried more than a few times to order a Shooboy Hammer from Randy and I never got any response. It's a real shame because his hammers looked like they were top notch!! :(
 
I'll just throw this out.......

While many tout Brass faced hammers for G'smithing, I have not been a Fan and here is why. I find that if I want a "soft face" hammer, any of the Yellow Plastic, Trusty Cook Red Plastic, Delrin, Nylon type work excellent and they will NOT mar. For use with a Punch, a small regular Steel Ball Peen hammer is perfect as the face of the hammer is only striking the Punch, not the pin or gun itself.

Brass hammers deform quickly, develop burrs and dents and they can leave gold colored marks on metal. While the discoloration can be removed, I choose not to be bothered as it's a P.I.T.A.

While we are on the subject, I also pretty much stopped using Brass Punches for the same reasons. If I need a soft faced punch, I choose one of the Nylon Tipped Steel Punches Brownell's sells. For most applications my Starrett Steel Punches or Steel Roll Pin Punches are used.

Note: I find that Steel punches do NOT mark up a guns surface IF THEY ARE properly cared for. By that I mean kept "dressed" flat and burr free. the worst thing you could do is to use a Burred, disfigured face punch on anything - which will more than likely leave marks on metal.
 
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I have several small hammers for working on guns. My small steel ball peen only gets used on punches. I have one of the double ended nylon hammers with replaceable heads. I turned some brass and taped for short studs that fit the hammer so I run one side nylon and the other with a brass head.

With hammers goes some kind of backing for a lot of jobs. Using a suggestion form the forum I bought a few hockey pucks. Machined rounded grooves and cutout in them. Plus some small holes conveniently located with one or more of theses set to hold the gun solidly makes things work out much better with no worries about damage. I also have a 4" vise that I replace the jaws with machined pieces of brass.

I also have some different size brass hammers I use around the shop. I also have a couple of industrial belt grinders. A trip to the grinders once in a while to clean up the faces. Even my steel forging hammers go to the grinder occasionally to get the faves cleaned up.
 
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I have a Shooboy hammer, but for many purposes I use a 2 oz ball-peen hammer. You don't need a lot of weight for many functions. I also use the wooden handle of that hammer as the tool to tap the frame to loosen the side plate, as mentioned in the Kunhausen book.
 
I have a Shooboy hammer, but for many purposes I use a 2 oz ball-peen hammer. You don't need a lot of weight for many functions. I also use the wooden handle of that hammer as the tool to tap the frame to loosen the side plate, as mentioned in the Kunhausen book.

I guess you were one of the smarter ones and got to Randy before he pulled the plug on making the Shooboy hammers. :o
 
Maybe it's just me, but if something "needs" to be hit with a hammer, the Lyman just doesn't have enough authority... it's just too light. In addition, the nylon face has a nylon shank, so mine broke off fairly soon after I got it. I'm a Lyman fan, but not a Lyman Brass Tapper fan. YMMV

Froggie
 
Hi guys, I'm still around and still making Shooboy Hammers on occasion. I recently finished a run of 80 hammers but they sold out pretty quickly. I may do more before riding season rolls around. I will post in the classified section here if I do make another run. Sorry I haven't been here for awhile. Losing my wife on my birthday in April of 2016 has had quite the impact on my life. Thank you all for all the kind words about my products. I did stop supplying Brownells as time just didn't allow it any longer. Anyway, thank you all my friends for your support over the years. If anyone ever wants to get ahold of me you can do so at [email protected]. Thanks, Randy, aka Shoo
 

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