Gunsmithing Help And Tips

[tlay]

I would like to start a thread about gunsmithing tips and any help you might be able to share with others. If you have any shortcuts, products to buy to help with gunsmithing, tools to buy, or any tips please post them here. Who knows maybe we can get our own sticky!

I would like to start with metal work. This type of metal work is something you would do if you were to totally strip and refinish or restore a firearm.
I like to use a stainless steel wire wheel sold by Brownells to strip the bluing and rust off. It is a soft stainless steel wheel that won't cut into the metal. I believe it is called a carding wheel. It does a great job of taking off old bluing without the mess of chemicals. It mounts on a buffer or grinder shaft.
When all bluing is removed on all parts it is time for the metal work. I totally disassemble the firearm, including all pins. I don't remove the barrels on some guns including Smiths. I will start a new post later on metal work. Let's hear some of your tips!

 

[tlay]

One thing I want to tell you is I have talked more people out of refinishing a firearm than I will do in many lifetimes. I believe the older guns deserve to live their life with their battle scars. But it is their gun. In the end they will decide its future.
In fact I am restoring an LC Stevens 12 guage double barrel hammer gun made in 1889. It was a wall hanger for the last 30 years according to its present owner. I would NOT have restored this gun if it was mine. But it isn't. It was in very bad shape. The hammers wouldn't cock. Rusted everywhere. The owner wants it refinished, the stock refinished, and he wants to use it!
I have 4 weeks in the metal and have started on the wood. I will reblue it in my hot salts system when I finish the metal on one more gun, a Walther PPK. With my bluing system that is run on propane, I need at least 4 guns to make it profitable to fire up all the tanks. On my next post we will start the metal work.

 

[830singleshot]

I'm not sure if you are talking about a L.C.Smith or a J. Stevens double barrel, but surely you don't intend to hot blue those barrels

 

[torizus]

Excellent idea, I recently became active in that very same area. I am all about resurrecting and preserving the history and craftsmanship of days gone by.

Currently have six handguns,all around 100 years old or more in total disassembly and in the mechanical restoration point. Even went to extent of buying a small lathe and mill for the springs,pins,screws and other parts you just cant find or are cost prohibitive due to rarity or design. The current projects are not any where near collecter grade but will sure appeal to my personal self appreciation when they're completed. 2 Merwins, 2 S&W 1 1/2 and 2 Armi frame 44's.

 

[tlay]

No, I won't hot blue the Damascus barrels. I will rust blue them. The rest of the gun including the receiver I will hot blue.
Now for the beginning of my metal work. Please remember this is my way of doing this. This is not the only way or even the best way. If you have any constructive ideas on how I can work I would appreciate them.
I will describe my work on a S&W revolver because most of you have one or two.
I remove the grips and put them away. I remove the side plate screws and remove the cylinder and put it aside. I remove all internal parts. I remove all pins. Disassemble the cylinder. I now put all parts including the frame in my ultrasonic cleaner. After clean it is time for sanding.
It is extremely important when sanding parts that you sand parts that fit together, such as a side plate and frame. I put the side plate back on and I have different screws that have been sanded flat to tighten the side plate on. NEVER sand the edges of the side plate or the frame area that it fits in. This goes for the crane also. I put the crane back on the frame without the cylinder.
I start with sanding blocks and sandpaper wrapped files. It is important to sand as flat as possible. I like to do all the rounded areas first, such as the front of the grip frame the trigger guard, the hammer area and barrel. If you do the flat areas last it is easier to keep your edges sharp.
I start with 180 or 220 wet/dry sandpaper. If the metal is really pitted I will start with 120. On the round areas I like to use 1" emery cloth and mount the gun in a padded vice and use a shoeshine style to help keep the area round. When all the area is done with the grit I am using I will go finer in grit. If I started with 220 I will go to 320. I like to sand in one direction with one grit and when I change grits I sand in the other direction. I like to do the entire gun that way. It is important to have the entire gun sanded in the same direction on the last grit. After you have sanded all the way to 440 or 600 grit, depending on how much "shine" you want on the round areas you can go to the flat sides.
It is important to remember that the finer you go with the grit the better your metal work must be. If you want a Python type finish you had better have all the pits out and your flats must be perfect. A more matte finish is easier to achieve. I stop around 400 grit for this finish.
My next post will be about the flats and dealing with the letters and numbers.