Haaaaaaaaaaaate this trigger. What's the best replacement option?

[bulldozerd8t]

Here Dozer this where I'm getting mine! MidwayUSA - Advanced Search The 3 1/2 is out of stock now I,m buying mine next week so they might be back in by then. But there are a lot of places that sell them I just like this site never had a problem with them.

Thanks and that's not a bad price to make a better trigger.

 

[bulldozerd8t]

Just ordered one from brownells I have done buisness with them they are reliable and ships quickly plus they have the yellow spring one 3.5 in stock

 

[industrialfish]

I got my springs (and many other parts) from this guy.

AR-15 REDUCED POWER SPRING KIT

Reasonable prices and pretty fast shipping weather aside.

 

[Hobie1]

I like mine

+1 to trying the J-P trigger mod. As far as the "flitz", any other fine polishing compound is great. Just make sure you clean it out completely or it will continue to work it's "magic". From what i've read elsewhere, the sear group is heat treated and if you polish off or change the sear angle, the FCG may not live very long.
All I can say is, that after doing just a little clean-up and springs, I have a very good fun gun.
Hobie

 

[bulldozerd8t]

I got my springs (and many other parts) from this guy.

AR-15 REDUCED POWER SPRING KIT

Reasonable prices and pretty fast shipping weather aside.

Joebob outfitters he sales mueller scopes also. Did not know he sold ar parts. I and joebob was talking on e-mail a few months ago about his scopes.

 

[kbak67]

I use Flitz, and I picked it up at the feed store where I used to live about 3 years ago and havent' even dented the bottle (all my ARs, my AK, a few Glock connectors...)

I think Ace Hardware carries it. Friend of mine uses the metal polish they sell at Auto Zone (can't remember the name) and consistency wise comparing the two, we couldn 't really tell the difference....
when I use my Dremel, it's on the sloooowwwest speed there is...

 

[Clark Kent]

Joebob outfitters he sales mueller scopes also. Did not know he sold ar parts. I and joebob was talking on e-mail a few months ago about his scopes.

Mueller? What do you think about their 25X scope on the 15-22

 

[BELT_FED]

I think if you add about 10" of sunshades you might have somethin

I don't know what it would be but it would be somethin

 

[bulldozerd8t]

Mueller? What do you think about their 25X scope on the 15-22

Do you think you will have enough magnification ? Ha ha, I have put a few 24 power on my 22's plus sunshade for bench shooting but not on my 15-22 want to keep it tacticool !!! LOL's But I hear those scopes are A1

 

[Citoriplus]

If you have any white car polishing compound in the garage it will do just as well as a dedicated metal polish like Flitz.
Its not quite as aggressive as Flitz, but this is the kind of job that is best done slowly and carefully.
It may take a little longer but if you put a little on a Dremel's felt polishing wheel or a cloth strip wrapped around a Popsicle stick and it will do the job just fine.

 

[Citoriplus]

Mueller? What do you think about their 25X scope on the 15-22

Good God, and I thought I was bad putting a pair of 6-24X42 Tasco scopes on a Rem 541S and a 10/22.

 

[bulldozerd8t]

If you have any white car polishing compound in the garage it will do just as well as a dedicated metal polish like Flitz.
Its not quite as aggressive as Flitz, but this is the kind of job that is best done slowly and carefully.
It may take a little longer but if you put a little on a Dremel's felt polishing wheel or a cloth strip wrapped around a Popsicle stick and it will do the job just fine.

Just don't forget and lick the popsicle stick, Safety First. LOL's

 

[corpulent]

Sorry, what exactly is getting polished? I've never tinkered with my FCG.

 

[Citoriplus]

If you remove the upper from your rifle you can hold the hammer with your left thumb and press the trigger. Slowly let the hammer go all the way forward till it stops, NEVER let it fly forward on its own, it 'shouldn't' matter if you do it accidentally once or twice
But repeated hammer falls can damage, if not crack the plastic of the lower or in extreme cases break the hammer itself.
Anyway once the hammer is all the way forward, look down on the rear side of the hammer by the pivot pin and you should be able to see a small shiny flat spot.
That is the hammers bearing surface, its half of the polishing equation. The other half is the bearing surface at the front of the trigger assembly. You can't see it without removing the trigger because it's underneath the hammer and its pivot pin.
To do a really proper polishing job on them you really do have to take the hammer and trigger out of the lower.
Just be VERY careful that you do not change the shape or angle of these surfaces or you could easily make a mess of things.
If you have never done anything like this, you can still do a credible job of it by just putting some polishing compound on the hammers bearing surface and just sit down and continually using your thumb to cock the hammer and pulling the trigger.
Replace the compound every 5 to 10 minutes while you watch TV for a night or two and you should have a decent trigger feel.
After a night or two doing that make sure you thoroughly clean the lower out to remove any residual compound and you should be able to feel a much smoother if not lighter trigger pull.

 

[corpulent]

Hmmm, interesting. So is the polish basically wearing away some of the surface to make it weaker/lighter? Or "smoother" so the parts interact better together?

 

[CPTBeaker]

Hmmm, interesting. So is the polish basically wearing away some of the surface to make it weaker/lighter? Or "smoother" so the parts interact better together?

Smoother.

The whole idea is to reduce the friction between the two mated surfaces by smoothing each surface out. Obviously, two rough surfaces won't slide past eachother as easily as two smooth surfaces and when they do slide, they will feel 'gritty' and will slide harder (and thus give a heavier pull weight).

 

[Citoriplus]

Hmmm, interesting. So is the polish basically wearing away some of the surface to make it weaker/lighter? Or "smoother" so the parts interact better together?

Your not confused, your right.
Smoothing the two surfaces will lighten the 'perceived' pull or trigger weight.
Smoothing them as a mated pair is generally easier for the amateur gunsmith, like us, get it right the first time instead of clean/polish the hammer, then the trigger and hope you didn't screw anything up.
You will never get it as good as a gunsmith who specializes in trigger jobs. But you can significantly improve what you have with some grinding/polishing compound and a little elbow grease.
Just stay the hell away from stones and grinding wheels, they can take WAY too much material off way too fast for anyone not intimately familiar with them.

 

[TwistedCreations]

Looking at the JP 3.5 spring kit..Should you replace all the springs inside the FCG or just the one on the trigger?

I have all blue springs on mine. But not sure if I had to change them all for a lighter trigger pull. Seems I would want to keep the blue one on the hammer, so it has more slam to it for insured firing.. Or am I thinking of that wrong?

 

[Citoriplus]

You should always replace springs as a set.
Both the trigger spring and the hammer spring work together to get the overall feel and weight.
Remember the trigger spring is there more to hold and return the trigger to battery.
While the hammer spring is there to force the hammer into the firing pin the force applied by it to the hammer when cocked directly affects the amount of pressure needed on the trigger to release it.
So while only replacing the trigger spring 'will' reduce the trigger weight, its not going to be nearly as good as doing both.
I wouldn't worry too much about replacement hammer springs not having enough power to reliably hit the firing pin.
Spring makers do their homework and do a lot of testing to make sure the combination is going to be reliable.

 

[nogoodnamesleft]

I would hate to spend $13 plus shipping for just a little "dab". Anyone have essentially a whole bottle extra that would be willing to package up a small amount to mail out in a letter size envelope? I wonder if a small quirt on some plastic wrap would work, or is this stuff too strong for that?

Buy the time the person who shelled out $13 for a bottle went and got a small container, packaged it properly, drove to the post office, and paid postage ... they would be out an additional $13+ .....