Haaaaaaaaaaaate this trigger. What's the best replacement option?

[TwistedCreations]

You should always replace springs as a set.
Both the trigger spring and the hammer spring work together to get the overall feel and weight.
Remember the trigger spring is there more to hold and return the trigger to battery.
While the hammer spring is there to force the hammer into the firing pin the force applied by it to the hammer when cocked directly affects the amount of pressure needed on the trigger to release it.
So while only replacing the trigger spring 'will' reduce the trigger weight, its not going to be nearly as good as doing both.
I wouldn't worry too much about replacement hammer springs not having enough power to reliably hit the firing pin.
Spring makers do their homework and do a lot of testing to make sure the combination is going to be reliable.

Ok, thank you very much for the information.. I'll have to order up a spring kit then.

Worst case scenario if I ever had problems, put the stock springs back in.

 

[Citoriplus]

Worst case scenario if I ever had problems, put the stock springs back in.

Then call the maker and complain, odds are that the bigger better known companies will send you a new set to try out.

One way to help newer lighter springs work better is to thoroughly clean and lubricate the pivot pins and the holes they fit into in the hammer & trigger.
It could surprise you how much improvement can sometimes be had by just giving any gun a good cleaning.

 

[TwistedCreations]

It could surprise you how much improvement can sometimes be had by just giving any gun a good cleaning.

Yes I have found that out.. I clean the heck out of my guns. I hate the idea of leaving them sitting dirty.

 

[industrialfish]

One way to help newer lighter springs work better is to thoroughly clean and lubricate the pivot pins and the holes they fit into in the hammer & trigger.
It could surprise you how much improvement can sometimes be had by just giving any gun a good cleaning.

I second this. I put my pins in a Dremal and spun them with a buffing compound on a bore wipe. You wouldn't believe how smooth they came out without loosing any tolerances.

 

[AskDrTodd]

well I polished all the surfaces with the white compound until they were shinier, not a mirror finish or anything, but I didn't want to take that much material off anyway. The trigger breaks cleaner but still isn't glassy smooth. Is that not possible with the factory trigger?

 

[BELT_FED]

well I polished all the surfaces with the white compound until they were shinier, not a mirror finish or anything, but I didn't want to take that much material off anyway. The trigger breaks cleaner but still isn't glassy smooth. Is that not possible with the factory trigger?

Yes it is very possible, all it takes is alittle time and know how... if you stone the sufaces first befor you polish them you get much better results. As the old saying goes "you can polish a **** all day but at the end your left with a ****".. by stoning them first you get a perfectly flat surface and you allways polish in the dirrection the hammer rolls off the trigger.. once thise is done then polish them.. it really doesn't matter how shinny they are if they still have little raised areas that interlock with the sear..

If you take 1600 grit wet sand paper and lay it on a flat surface and run your trigger across it pulling it back toward you, making sure you keep the leading surface of the trigger flat, when you lift it you will see the high and low spots in it continue that process until the low spots go away then polish

 

[industrialfish]

Use 2000 grit sandpaper, some gun oil, and a sheet of glass for the trigger faces. And frequently change out the paper as the oil turns gray.

I then used a hacksaw blade back instead of glass so I could also polish the hammer notch the same way

Both now have a mirror finish, but you can still see machine marks as I really only highly polished the surfaces without removing any material.

 

[AskDrTodd]

easy fix, I ordered a Timney for my 6.5 Grendel AR, will be swapping the RRA 2-Stage Match trigger into the 15-22.

 

[Citoriplus]

Good God, we all have to be as crazy as loons to spend all the time, effort, and money we do on this one little .22 rimfire rifle.

Oh well welcome all to the loony bin

 

[stevegartx]

Go to JP Enterprises web sight ,look up fire control systems . Find JP EZ trigger kits watch the videos there . I installed the Ez trigger kit in my 15-22 . It works great . Little expensive but I think well worth the money . The pins are .154 . But the .156 pin kit will work ,with no mods to the lower

 

[UpstateNY]

Buy the time the person who shelled out $13 for a bottle went and got a small container, packaged it properly, drove to the post office, and paid postage ... they would be out an additional $13+ .....

That's why I said, if it doesn't dissolve the plastic wrap, then a small dab folded a few times in the plastic, sent in an envelope with a postage stamp should be sufficient. At no point did I ask anyone to box up a significant amount.

 

[bpilley]

M&P trigger

I am having trouble with the trigger on my M&P 15-22. After about 50 rounds the FCG pins start to "walk" out. Can anyone advise me on how to fix this problem.
Will a mil spec FCG fit a 15-22?

 

[GhostMutt]

I am having trouble with the trigger on my M&P 15-22. After about 50 rounds the FCG pins start to "walk" out. Can anyone advise me on how to fix this problem.
Will a mil spec FCG fit a 15-22?

I know it's nearly Halloween but resurrecting this thread like a zombie is pushing it, you should have started a new thread

In answer to your question, you could invest in the 15-22 specific anti walk pins. That would solve your issue.

Most mil spec triggers will drop into a 15-22, it depends on how much you want to drop on a trigger, i have a Hiperfire 24C trigger in mine and love it. Many people opt for the CMC. There are also spring sets you can get to improve the factory trigger.

The world is your oyster as far a triggers go for the 15-22.
Which is another thing that makes it a great rifle.

 

[LarryP]

If you get tired polishing there are inexpensive replacements. ALG is made by Geissele.

A story is [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBrixk3ALgQ"]here[/ame].

 

[huafist]

The JP Yellow springs didn't work well for me ; I got a LOT of light strikes with the set.
What I ended up doing was installed an ALG FCG, with a JP Yellow trigger spring, and the ALG MilSpec hammer spring. I coupled that with the trigger adjuster grip screw from JoeBob's Outfitters, and I'm super pleased with how it turned out.

 

[dbf909]

2nd the ALG. I've had great results in a number of AR-style lowers with ALG ACT FCGs. The ALG QMS is a few $ less cost and replicates the pull weight of Mil-Spec with a cleaner break while the ALG ACT reduces the pull significantly.

I've stoned and polished Mil-Spec FCGs with great results as well but the level of effort to equal or better the ACT is not worth it to me.

The only advantage I see to doing the work (stone, polish, etc.) is the experience and learning how the trigger, sear, disconnector, and hammer all interact with one another in operation. That is definitely worthwhile.

However, unless you are trying to build a match quality bench rifle, I've found the ALG ACT to be the best value in FCGs.