Hand Ejector

Looks like a Triple Lock with a 6.5” barrel, after market pearl grips that has been refinished at some point in its life after being rode hard. It is still an attractive piece and if the mechanics and bore are good should make a great shooter.

Measure the barrel from the end of the cylinder to the end of the barrel for us.
 
Looks like a Triple Lock with a 6.5” barrel, after market pearl grips that has been refinished at some point in its life after being rode hard. It is still an attractive piece and if the mechanics and bore are good should make a great shooter.

Measure the barrel from the end of the cylinder to the end of the barrel for us.
From the end of the barrel to the beginning of the cylinder is approximately 6.5". It was originally nickel plated. However, when I was stationed down at Fort Huachuca I sent it off to Robar Companies, Inc. for their input. They recommended putting this coating on it to cover the pitting.
 
From the end of the barrel to the beginning of the cylinder is approximately 6.5". It was originally nickel plated. However, when I was stationed down at Fort Huachuca I sent it off to Robar Companies, Inc. for their input. They recommended putting this coating on it to cover the pitting.
Any idea on date of manufacture?
 
Any idea on date of manufacture?
Welcome to the forum!
You have what used to be a vary desirable and valuable S&W: the .44 S&W Special 1st Model Hand Ejector, Military model New Century. More commonly known as the Triple Lock for its unique 3 locking devices to lock the cylinder in place.

Dates of manufacturer are not available at the factory. But they can supply shipping dates.
Here are numbers near yours with confirmed ship dates:

11308 6 ½” nickel, shipped October 21, 1915,

11370 6 ½” nickel, Aug 18, 1915

11701 shipped February 23, 1916, outlined logo

12064 6 ½”, nickel, shipped 9/1/15 to Belknap Hardware, Louisville, KY, sent back to S&W 10/46 for micro click sights

Clearly the coating was not successful and did not perform in hiding the pitting as it was recommended. What did that cost?

To confirm if it was originally nickel from the factory, you should look for the serial number in the extractor shroud under the barrel.
With bright light and magnification, search for the tiny serial # stamped in the front end of the extractor rod groove, and a 'B' in front of #. If it does not have a B for blue, it was shipped from the factory originally nickel plated.

That would be a good thing because Re-nickel plating is the only possible option to make the gun visually acceptable, if desired.
After chemically stripping the coating it needs brazing to flow brass rod into all the pitted areas. Then the surfaces leveled, and polished for nickel plating. Most nickel platers do not have that expertise but experienced firearm refinishers do. And they also know which parts are not plated to be a correct restoration. The hammer, trigger, middle lock cam plate should be color case hardened and the ejector star of the cylinder should be blued.

Of course you'd want to confirm it's mechanically functional first, even if you just want it as a shooter. What condition is the barrel bore?
 
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Yeah it sat somewhere unprotected for awhile. But it's not as bad as many I've seen.

I wouldn't consider restoring it if it wasn't a Triple Lock with only so few ever made. I hate to think about losing another one.
 
I'm having an issue getting the cylinder to release. The ejector lever seems to be in the forward position, but the ejector rod lock doesn’t seem to be releasing (no visible movement in the ejector shroud 'pin'). Any suggestions? I've attached some additional pics.

History
The pistol was originally my grandfather's and spent the majority of its time in a leather holster hanging in a barn in northern Wisconsin. My grandfather was a World War I veteran.
 

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I'm having an issue getting the cylinder to release. The ejector lever seems to be in the forward position, but the ejector rod lock doesn’t seem to be releasing (no visible movement in the ejector shroud 'pin'). Any suggestions? I've attached some additional pics.

History
The pistol was originally my grandfather's and spent the majority of its time in a leather holster hanging in a barn in northern Wisconsin. My grandfather was a World War I veteran.
In my opinion the only proper thing to do to a family heirloom Triple Lock would be to take it to a gunsmith and get it into good working order and then have it refinished back to nickel.

It will be pricey but that is a highly sought after piece, and with that history, well it would be worth it to me. Oh, and get a letter on it first…
 
Can you recommend a reputable place to do the restoration and what does that typically cost?
I don’t know anyone, but hopefully someone can chime in and we’ll both know.

Price…I can only imagine it would be several hundred or into a few thousand, but that is a gun I would do it with.
 
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