Hard Cast Alloy Bullets safe for my new JM 625?

[johnny_yuma]

I've since ordered 1000 units Zero bullets JHP. I still have around 300 Hard Cast Alloy, which shoot very accurate and I know what Im dealing with in cleaning the weapon after those =P -And thanks for the tip. Plated bullets next

 

[noylj]

1) When you first start to shoot any lead bullet, thoroughly clean the bore of any copper and, when shooting, check the bore after about 25 shots to look for leading.
2) Hard does NOT prevent leading. For your use, the alloy is too hard. Bullets that are too hard or too small will initiate leading at the beginning for the rifling, if not at the forcing cone. You should have an alloy of 9-12 BHN.
3) For revolvers, there are two things to watch:
a) the bullet must be at least a snug slip fit in the cylinder's throats
and
b) must be at least 0.001" larger than the actual measured groove diameter.
4) To really prevent leading, if you get any, you should use a very light tumble lube of Lee Liquid Alox or powder coating.
5) If you get any leading, buy all copper Chore Boy scrub pads (accept no substitute), tear off a few strands, wrap around your bronze/brass brush, and scrub the lead out.

 

[LostintheOzone]

My 625JM tends to lead badly. I don't want to have to load special to 1 gun. (call me lazy if you want) So, I load plated, or jacketed bullets. Have loaded coated in 9mm, but no 45's as of yet. Rifling in JM is prone to leading. Still love shooting it though! Bob

I believe the rifling in the JM is what causes the leading. I also had a bad leading problem in my 625 JM. I went to coated in all my pistols. I never had any leading in my Colt 1911's but my Sig 220 also leaded up. No more leading.

 

[rwsmith]

A couple of alternatives to save cost......

...escpecially in a .45s with lower velocities than other semis

Soft Swaged bullets

Coated bullets

Hard cast lube in groove bullets (these are my least favorite

Plated bullets and heavy plated bullets

I don't shoot jacketed anything any more without a good reason. For target and plinking these do the job.

I save the jacketed stuff for SD.

 

[fredj338]

Did you measure each cyl throat? You will need pin gages or an ID mic to do it accurately, but if a 0.451" bullet will fall thru, the throats are too tight. This will swage the 0.452" bullet down & you will get leading in the throat & first 1" or so of bbl. If you are going to shoot lead bullets, even coated lead, the cyl throats wants to be at least 0.452".

 

[pjames32]

I have a recent 625JM. I've fired 1500-2000 rounds thru it, 95%+ were my cast lead bullets sized 0.452. The bore measures 0.451, the smallest cylinder measure 0.452. My hardness is low at 10.4+/-bhn. Use the largest cast bullet that fits the smallest cylinder and your leading will go away. Ideal size is .001-.002 over the barrel size, but no larger than the smallest hole in the cylinder.

 

[smoothshooter]

MY 625 JM doesn't do well with cast bullets regardless of hard they are cast (the barrel leads up severely)...so I just stay with 230 FMJ and have a blast!!
I use them in USPSA/IDPA matches.

Randy

PS. Now my 25-2 just doesn't care....it shoots my favorite #68 H&G 200 gr. SWC VERY well and no leading issues....differences in how the barrel is rifled I guess.

Your gun may have undersized throats , or your bullets are too hard.
It is a widely held fallacy that softer lead bullets always cause more leading. Sometimes hard bullets are worse because they don't obturate and give a good bore seal.
With the lower velocities involved in shooting the .45ACP cartridge, you could probably even get by with shooting pure lead if a good lube is used.

 

[fredj338]

Your gun may have undersized throats , or your bullets are too hard.
It is a widely held fallacy that softer lead bullets always cause more leading. Sometimes hard bullets are worse because they don't obturate and give a good bore seal.
With the lower velocities involved in shooting the .45ACP cartridge, you could probably even get by with shooting pure lead if a good lube is used.

What i've been sayin, but it seems to be diff for many to grasp.

 

[johnny_yuma]

I asked the question so here are my RESULTS AGAIN:

Shot another 100+ rounds of .452 Hard Cast Alloy bullets (Better bullets LSWC 200gr). I checked my JM625: It has a barrel of .451 All chambers are consistently .452 at the top then .451 at the bottom. As another had suggested: Check to see that the Hard Cast Alloy or lead bullets dont just drop thru your barrel. -CHECK. Check to see that they dont drop thru your Cambers but fit in thru the top. CHECK. So the gun is properly managing .452 bullets.

After multiple 50+ round sessions of Hard Cast Alloy 200gr .452 LSWC Gun shows light to minimal lead fouling. Hoppes #9 combined with moderate scrubbing with a brass bore scrubber produces a virgin clean barrel and chambers after repeated sessions. This gun can shoot anything if you bother to clean it. For all the tea in china, I cant see what people are complaining about if they bother to do a proper job cleaning the weapon.

Shoot all the lead you want. Just soak the barrel in Hoppes #9, Scrub, and Repeat.

END=================>

 

[cowboy4evr]

I would not use a brass bore brush . Instead take an old nylon bore brush , wrap a piece of chore boy around it . Chore Boy is " pure " copper , not like the after market ones that are steel coated with copper . You can usually find it at Ace Hdwe or Walmart . a brass brush over time could increase wear in the barrel . just my opinion .
If when cleaning a revolver that has fired cast , if I remove a few flakes , I don't consider that a leaded barrel . When I have strips an 1" long , then I have a problem .

 

[johnny_yuma]

I would not use a brass bore brush . Instead take an old nylon bore brush , wrap a piece of chore boy around it . Chore Boy is " pure " copper , not like the after market ones that are steel coated with copper . You can usually find it at Ace Hdwe or Walmart . a brass brush over time could increase wear in the barrel . just my opinion .
If when cleaning a revolver that has fired cast , if I remove a few flakes , I don't consider that a leaded barrel . When I have strips an 1" long , then I have a problem .

Chore-boy. Ok. I'll grab some of that next time Im at the hardware store. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Johnrh]

There are two types of ChoreBoy, one is pure copper and the other is copper coated. The box description will tell you. Make sure you get the pure copper one. ChoreBoy works great, you won't be scrubbing like you have been.

 

[johnny_yuma]

There are two types of ChoreBoy, one is pure copper and the other is copper coated. The box description will tell you. Make sure you get the pure copper one. ChoreBoy works great, you won't be scrubbing like you have been.

I've read about it elsewhere too. Thanks for the tip. Im all over it.

 

[Warren Sear]

Bring a magnet with you to the store to quickly determine if the Chore Boy has steel under copper plating. In my experience, it works best on a dry bore, and just takes a few passes to remove any lead. Then clean the barrel as you normally would.

Don't use a 50 cal brush in a 45 cal barrel. Use the correct one; it will work better.