Has the Shield changed for the better?

I got news for ya...neither is the barrel of a Shield.


From the Shield manual:

"Plus-P" (+P) ammunition generates pressures in excess of the pressures associated with standard ammunition. Such pressures may affect the wear characteristics or exceed the margin of safety. Use of "Plus-P" ammunition may result in the need for more frequent service.

"Plus-P-Plus" (+P+) ammunition must not be used in Smith & Wesson firearms. This marking on the ammunition designates that it exceeds established industry standards, but the designation does not represent defined pressure limits and therefore such ammunition may vary significantly as to the pressures generated and could be DANGEROUS.


Also, in the owner's manual of my new M&P Bodyguard 380, on page 11 and right below the info quoted above, there is a chart showing which M&P pistols/calibers are okay for use of +P ammo.

I don't recall seeing the chart in my first version 9c's or Shield 9 2.0's manuals, but I don't have them handy to check right now.

Anyway, per their chart in the BG 380 manual:
Standard Pressure ammo is okay in all of them, of course.

+P is okay for 9 mm, 38 Super, and 45 Auto.

+P is not okay for 380 Auto, 9x21 mm, 357 Sig, or 40 S&W.

+P+ is not okay in any of them.


On a different note, as an older female with weaker hands, all slides are fairly difficult for me to rack. I had to practice a lot to be able to do it at all, and I still have to "hold" the slide using an overhand grip on the top of the slide with my weak (left) hand, and then "push" the frame forward using my right hand and arm. That method helps me, so it may be something to try. My Shield 2.0 slide is harder for me to rack than my 9c, but I've managed to do it so far. Hope that method might help someone else.
 
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As to your question, I can only comment based on my own experience. I purchased a Shield 9 shortly after they were introduced and thought it was awesome right out of the box. I couldn't find anything to complain about then. Skip forward to today, I bought a Shield .45 a while back. As with the 9, the .45 has been flawless from day one, accurate, soft shooting, and reliable as sunset. So, are they better? I don't know as mine were great from the start. How do you go up from the top?


If I were to ask for any change at all, stainless guide rods and flat triggers. Are they necessary, no, but they would be nice.
 
It's ok to not like the shield. I also found the recoil spring was very heavy. My wife could not rack the slide. I tried carrying it for few weeks and it didn't hide any easier than my Glock. The Glock felt better in my hand, had a better trigger pull, easier to rack the slide, so I sold the Shield.

So a woman has trouble with a strong slide.....

I DGAF......it functions perfectly and reliable.




You don't mess up a perfectly good system because of nancy boys and women.....just my opinion.

I did not care for them (S&W) but after shooting them.....wow
 
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What is the purported advantage of a flat trigger?


It's the feel, no matter where your finger contacts the trigger, the pull feels the same. I haven't tried one in my Shield yet, but in every 1911 I've owned there has been one and I like them.....a lot.
 
It's the feel, no matter where your finger contacts the trigger, the pull feels the same. I haven't tried one in my Shield yet, but in every 1911 I've owned there has been one and I like them.....a lot.

I believe that the trigger may be the reason I shoot a P365 better than my Shield. Its not a flat trigger but it has no hinge.
I have the original Shield and its a good gun but the new grip feels better to me. Less slippery.
That said I may switch to the 365, not for size or capacity but because I shoot it better. Isn't that what matters?
 
I have a Hyve trigger in my Shield 1.0...not flat like the Apex but not curved as much as the Stock trigger either. I haven't heard of any OEM triggers breaking at the hinge point...but I like a solid aluminum trigger if nothing else just to make me feel more confident in the gun. I would still like to replace the OEM Striker Block with the more rounded Apex when I change to TFO sights. That's what causes the gritty feel in the 1.0
 
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My wife and I have more than one Shield, in both 9MM and 45ACP. All of them are factory stock, and all of them are perfectly satisfactory as far as function and firing are concerned. However, as my wife's hand strength diminished, she began to have difficulty operating the slide on her Shield 9MM. She had the opportunity to hold and try operating a Shield EZ .380 at a gun show and she fell in love! I was skeptical because operating the slide was so easy, I feared it couldn't funtion correctly. She bought it!

First outing, she fired nearly 300 rounds through it and also loaded her own mags during the process. When finished, she stated she could shoot that many more right now! We experienced about three instances where the last loaded round in the mags stood straight up instead of chambering. She continued to fire, and I also fired the gun a few magfuls to see if it happened with me. One of those instances happened with me shooting. But we had no further issues with this after the first 50 rounds fired. I think the first out EZ models may have had mag springs that were bordering on being to easy! I hear that subsequent models were given a slightly stronger mag spring. This is NOT confirmed ... I just hear that!

I can confirm that the Shield EZ is the first handgun my wife has completely and happily over all embraced. She loves it! And I am impressed with it myself. I accept the caliber as the smallest that I will trust for close encounters with predators. But I also know for a fact that good hits with it will do the job. Wife shot all those rounds at a standard size target that had six big bull's eye targets on it. The colored bulls were about six or so inches in diameter. She shot at all six during her shooting session. I only counted about a half dozen hits outside the bullseye's and these were still within the scoring rings on each. She shoots the 9MM well, and she also shoots her 442 well, but her hands tire after about 50 rounds of dealing with the trigger action on the 442 and the stronger recoil on the 9MM and she's done for the day. The only reason she quit shooting on her first session with the EZ was because we had no more ammo for it! I asked how her if she could shoot again the next day and she emphatically said she could!

The EZ is not for everyone, but there is a large portion of the older folks shooting today, both men and women, for whom the EZ will allow them to continue to carry and use a handgun for personal protection and be able to function the action and shoot accurately enough to get the job done. Both my wife and I have begun to shoot it even more accurately with continued shooting and getting used to the gun and the way it functions. My comment is that you should not hesitate to give the EZ a try if you are comfortable with the caliber. I see no real need to load it with anything beyond good quality FMJ rounds unless you just want to spend more money for the ammo. You will get adequate penetration with that ammo to do the job, in my experience. Putting those rounds where they need to go will be up to you, but if you can do that, you will be far and away ahead of trying to do so with any handgun that you struggle to operate well enough to really be accurate with. Just my two cents, for what it's worth! Everybody has to figure out what works for them, and then make it work. The only way I know to do that is to get one and shoot it till you figure it out!
 
As to your question, I can only comment based on my own experience. I purchased a Shield 9 shortly after they were introduced and thought it was awesome right out of the box. I couldn't find anything to complain about then. Skip forward to today, I bought a Shield .45 a while back. As with the 9, the .45 has been flawless from day one, accurate, soft shooting, and reliable as sunset. So, are they better? I don't know as mine were great from the start. How do you go up from the top?


If I were to ask for any change at all, stainless guide rods and flat triggers. Are they necessary, no, but they would be nice.
I have been satisfied with the 9 and 45 Shield using standard load ammunition. Both have been reliable out of the box. I haven't seen a good reason to shoot +p+ from a 3"barrel.
 
Take Notice/ Stainless Steel RCS

I guess I could have been limp-writing it, but I've never had problems with the 9c. I guess I need to handle a Shield in a shop to see if I can field strip it. How much is an SS Stainless recoil spring?
I bought one of those stainless steel return springs. Yes, could really tell racking was easier. Then in an ad by the same supplier___ "Do not use +P". I didn't feel like changing the return spring depending on practice shooting of the "other". Tossed it.
Now if someone is selling a "softer racking spring"__ is SD ammo
okay?
Stay safe
Poli Viejo
 
I have one of the first Shield 9s out and can't say I've had any problems. Can't say I've had problems with any of the M&P 9s & 45s.
 
You can determine if the stovepipe/double feed problem is due to limp wristing by using these methods. Don't bother aiming the gun, just point it down range in a safe direction.

  1. Test firing a few shots with a 2-handed "death grip" on the gun. Grip the gun so hard that you can't shoot more than a couple shots before you need a rest.
  2. Use sandbags and pin the gun on the sandbags with a 2 handed "death grip"

These will reduce or eliminate the "jump" of the gun and put most of the recoil into working the action. At the opposite end of the spectrum, think about suspending the gun as a pendulum with ropes and somehow firing it. Without resistance to the gun moving backwards, the action most likely won't be able to operate properly.

No, it's not practical to shoot a gun this way as a regular practice, but it will tell you that your technique, ammo and gun are not a good match. If you can't find the right combination of grip or ammo, then the gun is not right for you.

As for operating the slide, even the weakest shooter should be able to grip the slide with their weak hand (left for a right handed shooter) and push the lower frame forward with their strong hand. Do this with upward pressure on the slide stop or with an empty mag in the gun and it will lock back.

I've been able to cycle "jammed guns" that seemed to be locked up by gripping the slide and slamming my right hand between my thumb and index finger into the top of the grip and open the action. This also works with grip safety guns like 1911's and XD's and with my hand being open, there is no chance of getting my finger onto the trigger. Plus the gun should always be pointed in a safe direction when doing this but that should be a given.

Of course opening the slide on the Shield doesn't take anywhere near that sort of force, but the technique will open any gun with even the strongest recoil spring.
 
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