Heavy L and N Frames. Best Balance? 3 or 4" BBL??

Sporting12

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Hey all.
Just wanted to get some opinions on which barrel length everyone thinks balance better in these guns.
Examples of "Heavy" would be guns such as 686,627,629 etc.
Thanks, Pete
 
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Hey all.
Just wanted to get some opinions on which barrel length everyone thinks balance better in these guns.
Examples of "Heavy" would be guns such as 686,627,629 etc.
Thanks, Pete
 
Hi, I have a 625 with a 3" barrel and have several with 4" barrels...I think both are pretty even on the ballance...I dont think the 1 inch would make much of a difference...Now the 6 inch guns are probably pretty well balanced....I like the 3 inch for carry and 4" for carry and target shooting...
 
Did Smith ever make anything except 4" barrel guns?
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I've a 28-2 4" and it is probably the best-balancing gun I've ever shot.
 
Most of my S&Ws are 4 inch except a 25-2 and a model 28-2. I would not make a lot of difference in them as I do not carry anything. Each one is accurate if I do my part
 
As I prefer the gun to balance back in my hand for fast moving from target to target, I find the 3" in both L and N frames to work best for me, although I do not feel handicapped by a 4" in that regard. I only have 5 long (6-6.5") N frames, and I like them for precision aimed fire(SA). For fast work I find them slightly inhibiting.
 
Depends on the gun, but the 4" does balance nicely on the N-frame. Here's a 22-4 4" in .45.
Bob

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I can't speak to the K-frames. I have a slight preference for the 4" over the 3" in an N-frame.
 
I've got an unfluted 3-7/8" (or whatever) 610 that has the best natural balance of any DA revolver I've handled.
 
I have a 625 5" and a 625 mountain gun 4" for quick shooting it is hard to beat a half lug 4". For target work a 6.5 27 is hard to beat also. But then my 5" 625 punches paper with the best or them.
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The 4" balances best for me but I wouldn't dump my 3 incher.
 
To me, the 4" tapered barrel N-frames balance the best. Current examples include the 21-4 and 22-4 models and the mountain gun models. The 4" heavy barrel, especially full-lugged versions, are barrel heavy; the 3" barrel N-frames, even the fully lugged ones, are a little barrel light. And in magnum calibers the 3" barrels have a very fast upward whip during recoil that tends to literally rip up my hands if the gun is wearing rubber grips.
 
The lighter the better for me. I prefer the 3".
Edited to add: 3" short lugged.
 
To have any kind of discussion on this matter you need to look beyond mere length. I am starting to realize that contour is more important than length when it comes to feel, how well the gun points and one's ability to make the hits. For example, my full lug 3" 625 is actually easier to shoot well than my 4" Mountain Gun. These very light barrel configurations are very difficult to shoot well and any change in your grip or shooting style will be greatly magnified. This will become clear when you are shooting on the clock and fractions of a second become very critical.

Dave Sinko
 
Thanks for all the replies!
I`m trying to narrow down my choices for a revolver to use for IDPA type "action" shooting,
so I need something that can point & shoot quickly.(.38 /.357)----------Pete
 

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