Help identifying age of 38 Special CTG

[MarcWinNJ]

I have a 38 special CTG that was in the family for a while. It just came back in pretty bad shape. I am trying to determine if it is worth having it refinished and as such want to learn more about its age and value. Google hasn't been much help but it did bring me here.

Details are:

Yoke: 999 stamped inside
Serial #: 157xxx
Barrel: 38 S&W Special CTG
Barrel length: 6"
Sights: Fixed front
Ejector: Hand
Strain Screw: yes
Screws: 5

 

[MarcWinNJ]

Additional pictures

Additional pictures, thanks for the help.

 

[PALADIN85020]

".38 SPECIAL CTG" is the name of the cartridge it uses, not the name of the gun. What you have is an early Military and Police revolver, probably made sometime in the 19-teens. I'll let others more knowledgeable than I figure its age more accurately.

John

 

[Art Doc]

I'm no expert but it looks like an early Military & Police Model. Probably made before 1920.

Built on a K frame with a square butt. Condition is rough but a nice old revolver. This model would eventually evolve into the Model 10 in 1957.

 

[MarcWinNJ]

".38 SPECIAL CTG" is the name of the cartridge it uses, not the name of the gun. What you have is an early Military and Police revolver, probably made sometime in the 19-teens. I'll let others more knowledgeable than I figure its age more accurately.

John

Thanks John. Helpful to know its pretty old. I may send the details into S&W and let them pull the history. A little expensive but cool to have. I also want to get an idea on what refinishing would cost and where to get it done.

 

[Inusuit]

I'll take a shot, but I'm no expert. I think you have a .38 Military and Police Model of 1905, 3rd Change.

Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson 4th Edition says serial number range 1909-1915 is 146900 to 241703. Extrapolation would indicate your revolver was made towards the start of the series. Value according to the Catalog is Good condition-$400, Fair condition-$250.

I would be hesitant to refinish a family heirloom as its current condition reflects its history. Replating would mean the condition of the grips wouldn't match the new finish.

You might try a mild polishing compound like Flitz to see if the areas where plating is gone would come to be less contrast to the remaining finish.

Your gun, do what you want.

 

[PALADIN85020]

Thanks John. Helpful to know its pretty old. I may send the details into S&W and let them pull the history. A little expensive but cool to have. I also want to get an idea on what refinishing would cost and where to get it done.

As a general rule, for value's sake, it's usually not advisable to refinish an old revolver. Destroying its originality will usually actually decrease the value. It's old and it shows it. It's like giving a facelift to a craggy old-timer like me. No one would buy into it being not old. It's just showing it's lived an honest hard life.

For example, here is my grandfather's gun, shipped in 1904. Its battle scars are genuine, and it's just the way I inherited it. I wouldn't change it for the world.



On the other hand, if you just want to make it pretty, it will cost you a bundle to have it done correctly, which very few can do.

John

 

[Old_Cop]

Pre WW1, 1910 or so is my guess. Keep it cleaned and wipe down with oil. I would not refinish it.

 

[Jack Flash]

One problem with nickel is that when the finish wears and flakes, it looks awful.

It would cost a lot and take a long time to have it refinished. If you try to go the cheap route, you will wind up with a worse mess than you have now.

Here is the current price sheet from Ford's in Florida. They have a good reputation, but I have never used them so I can't say either way. But at least it gives a range of $325 to $500, nickel or hard chrome, depending on how shiny you want it. Personally, I would go with hard chrome because it wears better and after refinishing all collector value is gone anyways.

You will note that shipping, handling, & insurance is extra, so figure on at least another hundred.
https://cdn.websites.hibu.com/8f116...a2/files/uploaded/2020 All Retail Pricing.pdf

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! From a value standpoint, I agree that it should not be refinished. It'll cost around $350 which is about what the gun is worth after refinish. So, you will not gain any value. That being said, I refinished my grandfather's .32 Regulation Police because it had been burned in a house fire and I wanted to put it in a shadow box for display. I had nothing in the gun because I inherited it. I felt $200 to have it reblued was worth it as an heirloom. YMMV.

 

[DWalt]

157xxx would put its likely shipment at 1910. The closest SN on my list is 154720 which shipped on 7/18/10, and I list three others a little further away which also shipped in 1910. Almost everyone here would recommend against refinishing it, me included.

What you have would have been called the Model of 1905, as it has the square butt. I am slightly suspicious about the originality of the grips. You might take a careful look at the back side of the right grip panel so see if you can make out a serial number which matches that of the gun.

 

[ACORN]

Firearm Plating -Mahovsky's Metalife

Ive not used them but have read good and yes, bad reviews of them.
I am thinking about having my Witness hard chromed buy them.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Firearm Plating -Mahovsky's Metalife

Ive not used them but have read good and yes, bad reviews of them.
I am thinking about having my Witness hard chromed buy them.

Those prices are dirt cheap! I have to wonder about the quality of the work. I can say that Accurate Plating & Weaponry | Gunsmith In Newville, Alabama does quality plating work and has been around a long time.

 

[lkabug]

Good advice and information noted above.
Welcome from the Commonwealth of Virginia.

 

[CapnB]

I used to be firmly in the "do not refinish" camp when it came to family heirlooms. Lately, I wonder how the original owner might have felt about it, particularly if the damage occurred in subsequent generations of neglect. If you knew that old uncle Bob or Aunt Judy were meticulous with the care of their possessions, he or she might be proud that a great great great nephew took enough interest to "restore" their old shootin' iron. To me, the back story weighs heavily on the decision. As stated above, you're not going to affect the value one way or another so, if the gun has no actual historical significance (i.e. used in the Great Train Robbery) just do what you think old uncle Bob would do. Oh, and enjoy shooting it.
Good shootin',
Doug

 

[Hondo44]

You should at least polish it first with Flitz, Semi-chrome or Mother's Mag Wheel polish. You'll be amazed at how good it will look! All the dark areas where the plating is worn thru to bare metal will shine up and match the shiny nickel that's left on it! Spend about $6 on polish and then decide. Nothing to lose and everything to gain.

I would not refinish it in any case.

 

[merl67]

Welcome to the forum! As Jim has said you will be surprised at how much better it will look with Flitz, or Mothers Mag an old cotton T-shirt, and a little time polishing it. I too am in the no refinish camp.

 

[handejector]

157xxx would put its likely shipment at 1910. The closest SN on my list is 154720 which shipped on 7/18/10, and I list three others a little further away which also shipped in 1910.


I am slightly suspicious about the originality of the grips.

I have 137808 shipped in March, 1910. Seems like they were cranking out a lot of guns in 1910!

The dished, non-medallion grips are numbered to it.

The OP's gun could be right around the time the gold medallions started, assuming the 1910 start date we hear is correct.

Isn't your barrel 6-1/2". Hard to tell from the pic. This one is-

 

[MarcWinNJ]

You should at least polish it first with Flitz, Semi-chrome or Mother's Mag Wheel polish. You'll be amazed at how good it will look! All the dark areas where the plating is worn thru to bare metal will shine up and match the shiny nickel that's left on it! Spend about $6 on polish and then decide. Nothing to lose and everything to gain.

I would not refinish it in any case.

Thank you. Appreciate the polishing tips

 

[MarcWinNJ]

I have 137808 shipped in March, 1910. Seems like they were cranking out a lot of guns in 1910!

The dished, non-medallion grips are numbered to it.

The OP's gun could be right around the time the gold medallions started, assuming the 1910 start date we hear is correct.

Isn't your barrel 6-1/2". Hard to tell from the pic. This one is-

It does measure longer than 6". I didn't know they made 6+".