Trying to identity this revolver. 1st it is a top break with a visible hammer. 2nd # on butt is 81850. 3rd unsure of caliber, can't find a marking for that info. 4th barrel is 5 inches long from cylinder to tip. 5th it is fixed sights. It's a Smith & Wesson. Pics included. Any help is appreciated.
Help identifying model and caliber.
- Thread starter Ct816
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Welcome
Yours is a 2nd model 38 S&W Topbreak revolver. Not the 38 Special but an earlier shorter version introduced in 1876. Almost like a 38 Short.
See attached photo under 2nd Model. The 5” barrel is not common on this model. You need to get rid of those grips and install some originals. Also a careful oil/solvent cleaning would help a lot too.
Photo attached is an old listing. Prices are much higher now. The 5” barrel is an attractive feature on this early model. These were black powder guns originally so if you plan on attempting to shoot it black powder loads are the safest. If you plan on factory smokeless loads the gun must be inspected by a qualified gunsmith to confirm that its condition is good enough for safe shooting.
Murph
Yours is a 2nd model 38 S&W Topbreak revolver. Not the 38 Special but an earlier shorter version introduced in 1876. Almost like a 38 Short.
See attached photo under 2nd Model. The 5” barrel is not common on this model. You need to get rid of those grips and install some originals. Also a careful oil/solvent cleaning would help a lot too.
Photo attached is an old listing. Prices are much higher now. The 5” barrel is an attractive feature on this early model. These were black powder guns originally so if you plan on attempting to shoot it black powder loads are the safest. If you plan on factory smokeless loads the gun must be inspected by a qualified gunsmith to confirm that its condition is good enough for safe shooting.
Murph
Attachments
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- Messages
- 27,660
- Reaction score
- 21,323
Official name, .38 Double Action, probably dates to 1882-1883.
Agree it would benefit from a thorough external and internal cleaning before seeing if it is safe to fire, if that is your goal.
Agree it would benefit from a thorough external and internal cleaning before seeing if it is safe to fire, if that is your goal.
Value
Value is subjective. The 5” barrel bumps it up but the condition at present from photos provided is Fair/Poor. I also see some pitting on the barrel photo.
It’s impossible to value a gun in this condition without in hand inspection. Usually an antique in this condition has other issues that aren’t seen in a photo. The list is endless.
The photo is the grips you need.
Murph
Value is subjective. The 5” barrel bumps it up but the condition at present from photos provided is Fair/Poor. I also see some pitting on the barrel photo.
It’s impossible to value a gun in this condition without in hand inspection. Usually an antique in this condition has other issues that aren’t seen in a photo. The list is endless.
The photo is the grips you need.
Murph
Attachments
Last edited:
Condition
I'm sure this doesn't help much. But as far as condition yes pitting is present. Cylinder spins freely. But it's also tight and moves to the next load flawlessly. Top break is nice and tight no play whatsoever when locked down. Trigger is very smooth and feels very sturdy. No signs of cracking. Butt #, cylinder # and the break release # all matching. Every screw head is nice and sharp, appears as if there's never been a screw driver touch it. Would $300 be reaching? I want to make the guy a fair offer on it.
I'm sure this doesn't help much. But as far as condition yes pitting is present. Cylinder spins freely. But it's also tight and moves to the next load flawlessly. Top break is nice and tight no play whatsoever when locked down. Trigger is very smooth and feels very sturdy. No signs of cracking. Butt #, cylinder # and the break release # all matching. Every screw head is nice and sharp, appears as if there's never been a screw driver touch it. Would $300 be reaching? I want to make the guy a fair offer on it.
Matching?
You didn’t mention the barrel number. Frame, latch, cylinder, and barrel all must have matching numbers. If the barrel number doesn’t match it’s not worth more than parts. Or if the barrel number isn’t legible same same.
Folks check into this forum and always ask “what’s it worth”? Based on a few photos? Can’t be done unless your photos and description are picture perfect. I’ve never seen that on this forum.
On some of the gun sites you’ll find excellent listings with about 20 clear photos. That’s what is needed for an honest appraisal. Those smart sellers get good value and feedback.
Grips can be found for these if you shop around. Again, Id have to look at this gun “in hand” before I can determine specifically what I would do personally with it.
The $300 offer is only applicable if there are no surprises. Like a mis-matched barrel. Heavily worn out bore, bulge, cracks, damaged muzzle, damaged firing pin, the list is endless. Warped frame, bent frame, bent barrel, etc etc etc.
The action issue ( cylinder free spins?) that’s not an easy fix on this model. I’ve repaired these before.
More often the double locking bolt needs a weld. Replacement bolts don’t exist for this model.
Time consuming repairs detracts from value!
Sellers always blow that off like it’s nothing but if it takes me 5 hours to repair an antique? I’m walking away unless the seller considers my time as money and reduces the price accordingly.
Or they can find themselves a gunsmith that works for $5 an hour.
Murph
You didn’t mention the barrel number. Frame, latch, cylinder, and barrel all must have matching numbers. If the barrel number doesn’t match it’s not worth more than parts. Or if the barrel number isn’t legible same same.
Folks check into this forum and always ask “what’s it worth”? Based on a few photos? Can’t be done unless your photos and description are picture perfect. I’ve never seen that on this forum.
On some of the gun sites you’ll find excellent listings with about 20 clear photos. That’s what is needed for an honest appraisal. Those smart sellers get good value and feedback.
Grips can be found for these if you shop around. Again, Id have to look at this gun “in hand” before I can determine specifically what I would do personally with it.
The $300 offer is only applicable if there are no surprises. Like a mis-matched barrel. Heavily worn out bore, bulge, cracks, damaged muzzle, damaged firing pin, the list is endless. Warped frame, bent frame, bent barrel, etc etc etc.
The action issue ( cylinder free spins?) that’s not an easy fix on this model. I’ve repaired these before.
More often the double locking bolt needs a weld. Replacement bolts don’t exist for this model.
Time consuming repairs detracts from value!
Sellers always blow that off like it’s nothing but if it takes me 5 hours to repair an antique? I’m walking away unless the seller considers my time as money and reduces the price accordingly.
Or they can find themselves a gunsmith that works for $5 an hour.
Murph
Last edited:
Jim Watson
Member
I think you could get a nicer example for $300, nothing but the barrel length is supporting anything more than half that to me.
The grips look like Grade A apple crate.
A gentle active rust removal leaving it "patinated" is about all there is to do to the looks, if the action is sound.
The grips look like Grade A apple crate.
A gentle active rust removal leaving it "patinated" is about all there is to do to the looks, if the action is sound.
As an aside I hesitate to mention, this gun was made for black powder loads. The use of smokeless loads will eventually have your gun, and possibly you in need of significant repairs.
We will now hear from folks who shoot smokeless "all the time", and both they and their guns are none the worse for wear---yet.
Been there---done that----heard it all before.
Ralph Tremaine
We will now hear from folks who shoot smokeless "all the time", and both they and their guns are none the worse for wear---yet.
Been there---done that----heard it all before.
Ralph Tremaine
