Help Identifying Top Break Nickel Finish

[camoblizz20]

1. Top Break
2. Ser# 154xxx
3. 38 S&W (I believe) and not the special
4. 3 15/16" barrel (or 4 inch barrel)
5. Top break fixed
6. Strain screw on front of grip strap/ No Butt Swivel/ 4 screws total (one top break screw/one hammer area screw/one front grip screw (of course another screw to hold black plastic grips on as well)/one screw on henge to break cylinder area open)

 

[camoblizz20]

1. Top Break
2. Ser# 154xxx
3. 38 S&W (I believe) and not the special
4. 3 15/16" barrel (or 4 inch barrel)
5. Top break fixed
6. Strain screw on front of grip strap/ No Butt Swivel/ 4 screws total (one top break screw/one hammer area screw/one front grip screw (of course another screw to hold black plastic grips on as well)/one screw on henge to break cylinder area open)

Supposedly my great great grandfathers and from 1800's but someone could have gotten it wrong---all serial numbers match...only readable things are serial number and top of barrel -- " Smith & Wesson Springfield Mass USA July 11, 65 Aug 24, 69 issue"

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Welcome to the Forum!

What you have looks to be a .38 S&W DA (Double Action) 3rd model.
these were made between 1884 to 1895 (Serial No. Range: 119001 to
322700). Judging from your serial number, I would say yours was made
in late 1884 to early 1886.

Unfortunately, yours is also a very worn and heavily refinished condition.
Commercially, It would not have much value but being a piece of Family
History, it should have great value to you.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[camoblizz20]

I would love to get it working again---is there anyway to repair the cylinder ---it seems to catch and doesn't allow the hammer to go all the way back and catches the trigger.?? If I remove the cylinder the hammer and trigger work fine...? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[camoblizz20]

I would love to get it working again---is there anyway to repair the cylinder ---it seems to catch and doesn't allow the hammer to go all the way back and catches the trigger.?? If I remove the cylinder the hammer and trigger work fine...? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Hi There,

Welcome to the Forum!

What you have looks to be a .38 S&W DA (Double Action) 3rd model.
these were made between 1884 to 1895 (Serial No. Range: 119001 to
322700). Judging from your serial number, I would say yours was made
in late 1884 to early 1886.

Unfortunately, yours is also a very worn and heavily refinished condition.
Commercially, It would not have much value but being a piece of Family
History, it should have great value to you.

Cheers!
Webb

Is there anyone who can repair or talk to about me possibly repairing...after one pull of the trigger and the hammer releasing it doesn't seem to cycle but I've never tried to shoot it---should I try to put a bullet down range? Worried the cylinder might be so old and loose that it won't align up with the barrel correctly...and can you use modern 38 s&w bullet? Or is that a no no?

 

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

I'm not an expert on these models but there are some here that
have much more working experience than me. They should chime
in soon.

Most people feel that it is safe to use standard velocity .38 S&W
in them as long as they are in good and safe firing condition in
the first place. From your description, yours shouldn't be fired
under any circumstances. Cylinder to barrel alignment is critical
for the safe functioning of any revolver.

These DA's were made in great numbers (counting the 1st through
5th models, there were over half a million of these made). The cost
of repairs to your revolver may be greater than purchasing one
that is in good firable condition. Maybe many time more. So,
take this into account.

Cheers!
Webb

 

[camoblizz20]

Thank you so much---yeah don't want to shoot my hand off or anything

 

[BMur]

Great Family Heirloom!
The nickel finish on your antique 38TB is typical of one offered in the early 1900’s to “DRESS UP YOUR OLD REVOLVER” with our bargain refinish. Major Distributors offered this type of finish to get customers in their establishments. They nickeled the entire gun at a bargain price!
The action issue is likely related to a worn or damaged ratchet. See photo.
We need to start here so if you can post a high quality photo like this one we can get started evaluating your antique revolver.

Murph

 

[camoblizz20]

Great Family Heirloom!
The nickel finish on your antique 38TB is typical of one offered in the early 1900’s to “DRESS UP YOUR OLD REVOLVER” with our bargain refinish. Major Distributors offered this type of finish to get customers in their establishments. They nickeled the entire gun at a bargain price!
The action issue is likely related to a worn or damaged ratchet. See photo.
We need to start here so if you can post a high quality photo like this one we can get started evaluating your antique revolver.

Murph

View attachment 763826

 

[camoblizz20]

Thanks for the evaluation

 

[BMur]

Wow,
Yeah, your antique was definitely used a lot. Heavily worn and likely bent ratchet in multiple locations.possibly even removed and replaced and/or reinstalled incorrectly. It does not fit the cylinder correctly.
What you can try is to fill the cylinder with 5 empty cases and see if that stabilizes the ratchet play. It might improve the action.
I’ll post more photos later but your ratchet is very well worn and will need to be replaced. With this kind of wear(yellow arrows) it’s also very likely that the hand(pawl) is bent and chipped as well. So multiple issues exist.
The ratchet was the most common part replaced on these top breaks. Primarily due to wear/abuse. It usually starts with one tooth and one chamber malfunction and only gets worse from there.
Often when I replace the ratchet with one in much better shape the problem is solved.

Murph

 

[camoblizz20]

Wow,
Yeah, your antique was definitely used a lot. Heavily worn and likely bent ratchet in multiple locations.possibly even removed and replaced and/or reinstalled incorrectly. It does not fit the cylinder correctly.
What you can try is to fill the cylinder with 5 empty cases and see if that stabilizes the ratchet play. It might improve the action.
I’ll post more photos later but your ratchet is very well worn and will need to be replaced. With this kind of wear(yellow arrows) it’s also very likely that the hand(pawl) is bent and chipped as well. So multiple issues exist.
The ratchet was the most common part replaced on these top breaks. Primarily due to wear/abuse. It usually starts with one tooth and one chamber malfunction and only gets worse from there.
Often when I replace the ratchet with one in much better shape the problem is solved.

Murph


View attachment 763949View attachment 763950

Where can I get a new hand and/or a new ratchet from? Bc the timing is definitely off...

 

[BMur]

Jack first gun parts, eBay, gunbroker,
Gun shows.

Murph