Help instaling a safe

Odinkar

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I'm getting ready to order my Liberty Franklin safe and had a question for you all. I plan to anchor it to the concreate floor in my basement. The kit I have has no anchors, just a special drill bit and screws. Can I just put the safe where I want it and then drill the hole through the bottom of the safe and screw it in, or do I need to place the safe, mark it, then move the safe and drill the holes, move the safe back and then screw them down? Just trying to figure out the best way to do it.
Thanks
 
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Sounds like you have "tapcon" screws.

Drill the holes, safe in place. Then drill slightly oversize holes in the metal so the bolts turn freely in the metal and don't build too much torque before tightening down in the concrete.

You might want to pre drill the metal with a metal bit before using the concrete bit. Those carbide tipped bits are expensive, and you don't want to snap one by accident before you are done drilling.
 
We really need a sticky on safes. Maybe even a section of the forum dedicated to it. Over on the sigforum we even have a safe seller who answers questions (constantly.)

Each of us approach the problem in different ways. The best way is to anchor it in a corner. A masonry walled corner. If it were me, I'd put a couple of 2x4 planks down and drill the holes in the safe first. Then I'd move it into position, mark the floor and walls, then move the safe back out and drill the holes. The lugs I've used in the past were Red Head brand. They're just studs that spread out as you tighten them down. I like the idea of having one bolt/stud in each wall (preferably the back and one side.)

For background, almost no crook breaks in through the door of the safe. That is by far the strongest part of the safe. Most crooks try to tip the safe over on its face or one side, then attack the weak underbelly. Remember safes aren't really safes, they're just thin sheet metal boxes. Most aren't even welded along their entire seams. Just short welds and then longer distances with no weld. Anyone with any metal fabricating experience can open one in short order. But first they need to approach it where they can do their evil deeds. If its bolted in place, they probably can only attack one side, with the others protected. Even the side they can access isn't convenient.

Also consider if you ever intend to move it, you might want to be less protective.

Consider if you really want fire proof. Nothing is fire proof, it only resists the fire for a short time. Most safes use some wall board (gypsum board, drywall) to do the insulation. When its heated, it releases trapped water, making steam, all over your fine firearms. Maybe a better approach if you have any plumbing skills would be to place a few sprinkler heads above your safe and gun area. Cool water spraying on the outside of a safe is a lot better than steam inside. Take your pick, neither is a good answer. Placing your own sprinkler heads are much cheaper than paying for the insulation and then shipping that extra weight. Insulation also takes up a lot of space you've just paid for.

Also, a safe isn't the entire security plan. You'd be well advised to install an alarm system. One that calls the police and everyone else nearby. Then screams bloody murder that its been violated. Outside sirens, strobes, whatever.
 
I plan on going a bit overboard and core drilling and epoxy I have access to these things at my wrk so wont be bad just cost of epoxy
 
Also, a safe isn't the entire security plan. You'd be well advised to install an alarm system. One that calls the police and everyone else nearby. Then screams bloody murder that its been violated. Outside sirens, strobes, whatever.
Putting in a simple mercury switch on the inside of the safe which triggers when/if it is tilted/flipped is the least expensive option. I watched someone with a 2" steel I beam and bottle jack lift and move a safe [and its concrete anchors] a bunch of years ago as the original owner had stripped the heads making correct dis-assembly from the floor impossible.

So you can tip my 1100 pound safe but it will call for help via wireless IP the second you do.
 
Have delivered & installed 3 large heavy safes for myself and did a few for buddies over the last 30 years. My method is to drill in place. I have a nasty habit of putting 3 in the floor and one in a back wall, that sucker ‘’aint’’ going no place easy. If possible put next to an inside corner.

Most safes have a couple pre existing holes, but if yours does not or you do not like their location after you have gutted the interior for access, use a drill with metal bits starting small and work up to the caliber you want. I normally put the back one behind the center divider/shelf and it’s not noticeable when the divider/shelf is back in place. I use ¾’’ concrete anchors. After the holes in safe are ready I get a HAMMER drill and go through the safe into the concrete floor/wall. (You will need a vacuum to get rid of the dust you generate, but it’s no big deal)

There are many different kinds of anchors so if you’re not sure of what to get go to a contractor type supply house and ask. They all need different depths and carbide drill bit sizes to install. In my case I was a pipefitter and used these items to install and hang equipment and was used to using them.
 
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