Help needed - how do I get this thing off? Mini-14 query. HEY, IT WORKED.

[sigp220.45]

I just picked this 187 series Ranch Rifle up today. It came from a pawnshop just off the Navajo reservation, and is - to use the local vernacular - slightly "rezzified".

The price was right, but it has some minor issues. The buttplate and rear sight are an easy fix.

The flash hider and barrel shroud have to go. I used a punch to drive the pin out that holds the flash hider on, and it slid right off. The allen screws holding the shroud on came out easily, but how does it come off?

Since its one piece, it has to just slide off the barrel, but clearly the front sight is too high. Does the front sight come off? I don't see how, and it looks like it hasn't been off. If so, what tools do I need and how do I do it?

Am I missing something else?

Help!

 

[GatorFarmer]

Can I have the parts you're pulling off if you don't want them? The retro 80s look is oddly appealling.

You might want to see if one of the new rubber butt pads will fit.

I'd have a gunsmith look it over and remove the front sight. Though honestly, you might want to shoot it first before removing the shroud and flash hider. Many Mini 14s benefited from such things in terms of reduced group size. If it shoots well, I'd leave them on.

 

[oldfella]

Frankly, I don't know... but, Sip will most likely tell you to use a dremell tool

Pete

 

[shooboy]

I've got a new Butler Creek black synthetic stock that would really help you out with the looks of that Mini. Shoot me a PM if you are interested, Shoo

 

[m1gunner]

It has been about 20 years, but IIRC, the pin you removed to take the flash hider off also holds the front sight on.

The sight is a slight interference fit on the barrel, and is driven into place with a pipe looking tool. I am sure there is a special tool to pull it off (the M1 Carbine is like this as well). If you are careful, you should be able to drive the sight off with a hardwood block or a brass drift. A small puller, if you have that kind of equipment, is what is really needed.

 

[fastsw]

Not to pull this off topic, but how are the newer Mini-14's as far as accuracy? After having the mp1522 I want to go centerfire, but not necessarily sold on an AR platform (especially since in my state can't have sliding stock/suppressor/foregrip). I would be using the rifle for target shooting mostly at 100 yards, sometimes a bit further. Not looking to shoot 1/2" groupings, but descent enough to have fun. I will just put a scope on this rifle, as I have the mp1522 for all the rail goodies. Possible in the future for 3 gun competitions. Also want to keep range costs down so would be firing the steel wolf ammo.
Would a mini-14 server well for this purpose?

 

[shooboy]

Not to pull this off topic, but how are the newer Mini-14's as far as accuracy? After having the mp1522 I want to go centerfire, but not necessarily sold on an AR platform (especially since in my state can't have sliding stock/suppressor/foregrip). I would be using the rifle for target shooting mostly at 100 yards, sometimes a bit further. Not looking to shoot 1/2" groupings, but descent enough to have fun. I will just put a scope on this rifle, as I have the mp1522 for all the rail goodies. Possible in the future for 3 gun competitions. Also want to keep range costs down so would be firing the steel wolf ammo.
Would a mini-14 server well for this purpose?

Hi fastsw, I'm in the same boat as you are. I can't buy an AR with all the cool stuff either. That's why I like my Mini 14 Ranch Rifle. It's shown here with a red dot sight and a rail that mounts to the flanges where the Ruger rings normally mount. I actually do have the Ruger rings on it now with a regular Tasco 4x32 scope. Like the fact that I can load up my pre-ban 30 round mags too. Can add a flash suppressor too if I want. This rifle is great fun, Shoo

 

[GatorFarmer]

Last I knew, Ruger specifically advised against the use of steel cased ammo in Mini 14s. 580 and later guns are generally more accurate, but earlier prefix guns can be tweaked and some work as is. It's generally when the barrels heat up that they start producing shotgun like patterns instead of groups.

 

[Ron H.]

Sir, as has been noted, the pin that held the slide-on flash suppressor in place also holds the front sight in place. Get a block of wood as a drift and tap around the edge of the sight to move it forward and off the barrel. The shroud thing should then just slide off once the setscrews are loosened.

FYI, you might want to keep the flash hider. One reason people put them on "back in the day" was that they seemed to make the guns group better. Maybe the added weight on the muzzle tamed down the barrel whip or something. Regardless, group the gun both with and without it to see what works best.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.

 

[Rugskipper]

Not to pull this off topic, but how are the newer Mini-14's as far as accuracy?

Several years ago, I had a Stainless mini and it never jammed, never failed to fire, and never hit the broadside of a barn.
I found that putting a scope on a mini is like putting pantyhose on a pig. You'll get milk jug accuracy at 100 yards, but if you want any more than that, save up your beer money and buy an AR.

 

[LVSteve]

I found that putting a scope on a mini is like putting pantyhose on a pig. You'll get milk jug accuracy at 100 yards, but if you want any more than that, save up your beer money and buy an AR.

... or (gulp) buy a KelTec, Saiga or AK clone in 5.56. Not as accurate as an AR, but generally a good bit better than a Mini-14.

 

[rags]

Sir, as has been noted, the pin that held the slide-on flash suppressor in place also holds the front sight in place. Get a block of wood as a drift and tap around the edge of the sight to move it forward and off the barrel. The shroud thing should then just slide off once the setscrews are loosened.

FYI, you might want to keep the flash hider. One reason people put them on "back in the day" was that they seemed to make the guns group better. Maybe the added weight on the muzzle tamed down the barrel whip or something. Regardless, group the gun both with and without it to see what works best.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.

I'm glad someone said it! This is what I remembered when putting my flash suppressor on but it was so long ago, I wasn't sure. If I remember correctly, the stock one on the front site was shorter than the one that came with the suppressor. Knocked the original out...put the flash hider on and that's the way it is.

If the Shooboy Hammer had been invented back then, that would have been my first choice to use instead of the roll punch and 16oz ball peen hammer!

rags

 

[n4zov]

Sir, as has been noted, the pin that held the slide-on flash suppressor in place also holds the front sight in place. Get a block of wood as a drift and tap around the edge of the sight to move it forward and off the barrel. The shroud thing should then just slide off once the setscrews are loosened.

FYI, you might want to keep the flash hider. One reason people put them on "back in the day" was that they seemed to make the guns group better. Maybe the added weight on the muzzle tamed down the barrel whip or something. Regardless, group the gun both with and without it to see what works best.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.

+1 on keeping the flash hider on the gun. I added one to my Mini 30 and it turned patterns into 1.5" groups at 100 yards. You might try it with and without the hider to see if you notice any difference.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Several years ago, I had a Stainless mini and it never jammed, never failed to fire, and never hit the broadside of a barn.
I found that putting a scope on a mini is like putting pantyhose on a pig. You'll get milk jug accuracy at 100 yards, but if you want any more than that, save up your beer money and buy an AR.

So what's wrong with dressing up your pig??????????

 

[Rugskipper]

So what's wrong with dressing up your pig??????????

Q. What do you get when you cross a Razorback with a Ragin' Cajun?






A. Nuthin'. There's just some things even a pig won't do.

 

[pharmer]

Several years ago, I had a Stainless mini and it never jammed, never failed to fire, and never hit the broadside of a barn.
I found that putting a scope on a mini is like putting pantyhose on a pig. You'll get milk jug accuracy at 100 yards, but if you want any more than that, save up your beer money and buy an AR.

Can't see any downside in this statement, except for the pantyhose visual. Joe

 

[sigp220.45]

Thanks, guys. The block of wood and a hammer trick worked great and the sight slid right off. I took the handguard off and put the flash hider back on. I replaced the whole stock with an older style one with the curved butt plate. Now all I need to do is find a rear sight and some hi-cap mags and I'm good to go. I'll post some after pictures soon.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[cowboy117]

You can get all your Mini-14 questions answered here.


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[GatorFarmer]

Thanks, guys. The block of wood and a hammer trick worked great and the sight slid right off. I took the handguard off and put the flash hider back on. I replaced the whole stock with an older style one with the curved butt plate. Now all I need to do is find a rear sight and some hi-cap mags and I'm good to go. I'll post some after pictures soon.

Thanks for all the help.

Ruger 20 and 30 round factory mags are readily to be had, but you might want to try the METAL (not the polymer!) Promag offerings. Those, particularly the 20s, work well. Tapco also now sells polymer ones that are said to work well, though I haven't tried them. Try CDNN for the factory mags, Cheaper Than Dirt and a couple other places were still too high on them.

If you write Ruger, or call, they'll send you the rear sight either free or at very low cost. I had to get one from them once and they responded to my letter asking for a manual and "how much" by sending me a manual and the necessary parts as well.