Help on making a j frame decision

pw65

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I have a Model 37 I am thinking about bobbing the hammer for front pocket carry (about 25 bucks for the bobb). Have also fell in love with a MP 340, but it is pricey. Found a very good price 360 (.38, not .357), I could bobb the hammer on it.

Any thoughts
 
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If the m37 is 20 years old and in great condition I'd advise not cutting it. These older alloy frame items are getting hard to find with a good finish.

Have you tried pocket cary with it as it is? In my experience the snagging hammer is overstated. I bought 642 for pocket cary thinking that my m37 was only good for IWB but once I had the 642 in my pocket holster I got the idea to just go ahead and try the m37

Now I carry my m37 in a holster in my front pants pocket. I use an old IWB clip on that covers the hammer. I don't know if I cover the hammer without thinking but I have never had it snag coming out.

I'm gonna sell the 642.
 
I have carried a Model 60 (not bobbed) in my front pocket for more than 20 years. I have had no issues with "rapid deployment." I also have a 642. I like the 60 and gave the 642 to my wife...
 
I have pocket carried J-Frames for years and never noticed any issues with the hammer snagging. Of course, whether you have a problem will depend upon your clothing, pocket holster, and draw style. Hell, who knows what might happen in a real rapid deployment situation. I just think that the hammer snag problem is overstated.

I agree with those who recommend not bobbing the M37.

Also, I recommend that you check out Mika pocket holsters. They do a great job of allowing draw without snagging.

Now....a little snubbie porn. Here is a 1973 M42 with a Mika holster:
M42-1.jpg


I know, I know...here comes the "C" word...a 1969 Agent and 2008 New Agent with a Mike holster:
018-1.jpg


This is just to show you the Mika.
 
I have pocket carried J-Frames for years and never noticed any issues with the hammer snagging. Of course, whether you have a problem will depend upon your clothing, pocket holster, and draw style. I just think that the hammer snag problem is overstated.

I agree with those who recommend not bobbing the M37.

Yep ~ I agree with what he said.
 
I would also agree not to bob the M37. I've just purchased a M&P 340 and can certainly relate to your comment about it being pricey (I had to save my pennies for a while), but now that I have it, it's worth it and I'm already beginning to forget about the price. The trigger was horrible out of the box, though, but after putting some 38's and .357's through it, it's now at my gunsmith having a trigger job. All in all, it's exactly what I had in mind for an easy to carry but powerful pocket gun that will primarily be used to back up my 1911's. . .
 
Thanks to all of you for your reply's and words of wisdom. The 37 I have was born in 1969, mechanically hardly ever shot . It was carried as a back up and shows the wear from it. Shoots great and prints some tights groups at 7 yds.
 
The solution is a model 38 bodyguard or any of the bodyguard models. It solves all the issues raised. IMHO it is the most effective personal defense gun Smith makes and is the best looking.
 
I agree on not bobbing the m37. If you are going to pocket carry it, you can avoid snagging by covering the tip of the hammer spur with the tip of your thumb when you draw. My m60 comes right out smoothly using this technique as long as the pocket opening is large enough.
 
Several years ago I bobbed the hammer on a 60 no dash and regretted it later when I found a 640 pre-lock. Since yours is older than me I agree with everyone else don't bobb it get a bodyguard or centennial.
 
I would definitely not mod a perfectly good firearm like a 37 in a way that can't be reversed. Beyond that, it creates the NEED for another gun!:D:D

I believe the hammer issue for pocket carry is way over-thunked. The ability to use single-action fire far outweighs the chance of the occasional snag, which can be prevented with technique and pocket holster choices.

I'm looking long and hard at the M&P340 or 360 also, very nice guns. My shop has the 360 that I'm afraid I'm going to walk out with one of these days...:rolleyes:
 
I agree on not bobbing the m37. If you are going to pocket carry it, you can avoid snagging by covering the tip of the hammer spur with the tip of your thumb when you draw. My m60 comes right out smoothly using this technique as long as the pocket opening is large enough.

I was reading the thread top to bottom, and was about to respond when I got to Tracer_Bullet post.
I have pocket carried my M36 in a High Noon holster and trained my thumb to naturally go to the hammer.
The issue I've had with the High Noon at least in Chinos
is it rotates forward.
I have replaced the Holster with a Don Hulme with it's more centered pocket and forward bulge.
So far it says put, and allows my thumb to cover the hammer.
 
Help.!
I have a M-60 that I must replace the firing pin.
Is there a tool designed to ease the roll pin out of the hammer?
I have tried light taps with a punch and mallet but it is not moving.
 
I'll swim upstream and say bobb the hammer on anything you pocket carry - Murphy's Law being what it is . . .
 
See if your local gun crank has spare hammer and get him to bob it. Also have it configured for DAO.

Then if you change your mind or decide to sell it you can put it back to original.

Mdl36.jpg
 
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