Help please . . .686-4 and 686-8 pin

[Rude Fat Dog]

I have acquired a 686-4 and on disassembly I notice there is no guide pin for the spring in the rebound slide but there is one in my 686-8. Is this correct? - if not does anyone have the dimensions for the missing pin in the 686-4 rebound slide please.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Greg G

 

[sinbad71]

The pin you refer to is called a trigger stop pin. It's purpose is to limit trigger over travel. They are available from most gun parts suppliers, however, to replace one correctly, it has to be fitted to the gun which is a trial and error deal usually best done by a qualified gunsmith. S&W does not use it in all it's revolvers and your gun was probably produced without one. The gun will function just fine with or without the rod. I have numerous Smiths and only 3 have the rod installed from the factory.

 

[Nightowl]

I have one on the bench. It is .097 in diameter and .682 long. I wanted to make my 627 double action only and to minimize overtravel, so I made one from the shank of a drill bit that was .108 in diameter. I made it .708 long, which was a bit long and could still be cocked, but with resistency. So I took it out and put the original back in. It does not take much to change the overtravel quite a bit. The .108 diameter fit the spring but was a tighter fit than the original, and the max size of drill bit that you can use to make one. These pins are more often encountered in N frames, than either L or K frames. N frames have used them for a good long time.

 

[Rude Fat Dog]

Thank you

I have acquired a 686-4 and on disassembly I notice there is no guide pin for the spring in the rebound slide but there is one in my 686-8. Is this correct? - if not does anyone have the dimensions for the missing pin in the 686-4 rebound slide please.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Greg G

Thank you guys very much for your help.
Something else comes to mind before I go and leave you in peace - I purchased a Wolff Reduced Power hammer spring for the 686-8 and even with the tension screw tightened right up the spring is still loose to be usable - any thoughts?

 

[Coastie762]

Two possibilities come to mind. Was the -8 purchased new or used?

If used, it is possible that the strain screw (tension screw) may have been shortened by the previous owner in an attempt to reduce the trigger pull.

The other possibility is that the tip of the strain screw may have mushroomed out. The stainless screws used on the newer Smiths seems to be a bit soft. I found the same condition on my 625-8.

Sometimes the rib depth on the Wolff spring is also just a bit too deep for some revolvers.

HTH,

Coastie762

 

[Rude Fat Dog]

Two possibilities come to mind. Was the -8 purchased new or used?

If used, it is possible that the strain screw (tension screw) may have been shortened by the previous owner in an attempt to reduce the trigger pull.

The other possibility is that the tip of the strain screw may have mushroomed out. The stainless screws used on the newer Smiths seems to be a bit soft. I found the same condition on my 625-8.

Sometimes the rib depth on the Wolff spring is also just a bit too deep for some revolvers.

HTH,

Coastie762

Thanks for the reply.
Two brand new 686-8's were purchased at the same time and both have the problem - I guess I should contact Wolff.

 

[kaaskop49]

Hey Greg, great to have a member from "across the pond." Smart move on your part to buy stainless guns, given all the rain you have over there! I must admit to surprise and shock: did not know anyone could own firearms in Britain anymore, let alone handguns.

As to your question: I'm not a gunsmith so I can barely fathom what pin you are describing. Others have. My question: is there any problem with functioning in your guns? If not, I would leave well enough alone.

Please let us know. If there are light hits on primers, then my buddy Coastie 762 is on the right track and I also have a wee bit of experience here.

Toodaloo, pip, pip, and all that sort of rot!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

An old handgunner trick, for a too short strain screw, is to put a sent primer cup over the end of the screw. Then tighten it up.

Or you can go to a hardware store and buy a generic stainless #8-32 x 1/2" set screw and substitute it for the factory strain screw. It's a little longer. If need be, it can be trimmed to length.

 

[Rude Fat Dog]

Hey Greg, great to have a member from "across the pond." Smart move on your part to buy stainless guns, given all the rain you have over there! I must admit to surprise and shock: did not know anyone could own firearms in Britain anymore, let alone handguns.

As to your question: I'm not a gunsmith so I can barely fathom what pin you are describing. Others have. My question: is there any problem with functioning in your guns? If not, I would leave well enough alone.

Please let us know. If there are light hits on primers, then my buddy Coastie 762 is on the right track and I also have a wee bit of experience here.

Toodaloo, pip, pip, and all that sort of rot!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Thanks for the reply. Yes, we are allowed some guns but they are made to work underwater because of the rain

Yes we are allowed guns, I have a company Rude Fat Dog sporting products and Rude Fat Dog Sporting Products (eCommerce site) and we specialise in high end .22LR self loaders that are built on the 10/22 platform but only using the V block and screws from Ruger. We also use highly tuned Marlin 1894 U/L's extensively in the Gallery Rifle style comps that we have in the UK. Buckmark Rifles are cut down to make long barrelled pistols and the S&W 686-8 that I have been discussing has been converted in the US to conform to UK gun laws - all firearms must be at least 60cm (24") long and the only semi's that we can have are .22's. We can have centrefire bolt action rifles or 'straight pull' versions of AR15's that have to be loaded for each shot. However we are allowed high capacity magazines for everything

I have stripped the 686-8 and tuned it. The Wolff mainspring has been modified to produce what I require and a lighter rebound slide spring has been fitted. Critical parts stoned and polished to give less drag wherever possible. I have tried primed only cases in the Smith and single and double action works a treat. We are shooting lead through it and I now need to work up an accurate load for 50m as the Smith is aimed at a market where 1500 style comps are shot.

I look forward to talking with you guys in the future.

Ah yes, lest I forget, toodle pip old chap, tally ho, I'm off for a Gin and Tonic now

 

[Coastie762]

An old handgunner trick, for a too short strain screw, is to put a sent primer cup over the end of the screw. Then tighten it up.

Or you can go to a hardware store and buy a generic stainless #8-32 x 1/2" set screw and substitute it for the factory strain screw. It's a little longer. If need be, it can be trimmed to length.

The Kernel's suggestion regarding the set screw may be the easiest way for you to go. The 1/2 inch screw gives you plenty of length to tune the pull weight to your taste.

I would recommend that if you can find one, use a grade 8 steel setscrew rather than the stainless one. The grade 8 will not deform or mushroom as can happen with softer grades of carbon or stainless steel. Also a drop of blue Loctite will also help to keep the setscrew from moving.

Regards,

Coastie762

 

[Rude Fat Dog]

Thank you for all of your input.