HELP-Reinstalling a M 10 sideplate

[bob42]

I have had no problem removing the sideplate, replacing the hammer after changing the sear with the former sear but I cannot get the sideplate back on. The gun functions as designed in single & double action.
Is there a trick to aligning the hammer block and keeping it from moving while the sideplate is fitted? I do have the cylinder off.
What are the steps to install the sideplate? Do I add some lube to the bevel edges? Are the sideplate screws used to pull the plate into position? Do I gently tap the plate down?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Bob
2256

 

[FBullseye]

There may be more probems in your particular case, but yes, you've got to gently tap it back in. Real gently. Use something made of wood or the back of a screwdriver (if it's plastic). You'll hear it snap in place. Tight is good, if it wasn't it'd be a problem.
Hope it helps.

 

[VM]

Each side plate was fitted to that particular frame. The sideplate can easily be installed by gently pushing it with both thumbs after it is in place.
The hammer block needs to be in proper position, then tilt the top of the sideplate in, and then the long tang under the cylinder window.........at that point the rest of the sideplate should "seat itself" easily and freely.
I've seen too many sideplate seams screwed up because the sideplate was forced into place.
Read the FAQ's - there is some good info.
Good luck and be patient

 

[Jstot]

Since tapping on the grip frame with the side of a screw driver or soft hammer is usually required to get the side plate off, that's how I put one back on. Line it up and put a little pressure on it with my thumb, then tap tap until it vibrated it's way home.

 

[gboling]

The hamer block must fit in the grove in the side plate. Do not force the side plate if the hammer block is not properly positioned.

 

[ken158]

Put the hammer block at it's highest position and slide the plate up from the bottom - once it is in place, gently tap around with a wood or plastic screwdriver handle

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Each side plate was fitted to that particular frame. The sideplate can easily be installed by gently pushing it with both thumbs after it is in place.
The hammer block needs to be in proper position, then tilt the top of the sideplate in, and then the long tang under the cylinder window.........at that point the rest of the sideplate should "seat itself" easily and freely.
I've seen too many sideplate seams screwed up because the sideplate was forced into place.
Read the FAQ's - there is some good info.
Good luck and be patient

VM is spot on. You should not tap or pound a sideplate back into place. They should go back just as he said, by using your thumbs. They can be drawn down tight after that with the screws. Just because you have to use a babbit to tap the plate loose, is not a green light to do it when putting it back. Watch a S&W trained armorer put one back. He won't use a hammer handle or anything else.

All it takes is for the hammer block to be slightly out of place, and if you rap on the plate, you'll definately booger up the sideplate edges at the top especially.

 

[TNDave]

You are getting the right advice. Don't force it on. I see you are in TN. If you are in Memphis I can ease it back on for you.

 

[Tracer_Bullet]

I have found that pulling the hammer back ever so slightly often aligns the hammer-block and makes it much easier to get the sideplate back on with my model 10. Never had to use anything more than thumb pressure to get it seated back in place.

 

[Keith Brown]

You probably have already figured it out but if not here is my suggestion. Put the side plate on without the hammer block in place a few times to get the feel of the plate drawing down into place, do not use anything other than your thumbs, you should be able to seat it almost all the way with this pressure alone, put all three screws in and bring them evenly down to finish seating the plate. After doing it a few times you will then know how it should work and feel. Then do it with the block in place, once you find the right spot it will close just the same as if it was not even in the gun. I've found this method helps to learn to feel what is going on. If you do not already know, the side plate is removed by removing all the screws and tapping lightly on the frame with a clean piece of soft wood, some plates fit tighter than others and it might take 2 or 20 raps to get it to lift. I've found it best to cover the plate with a thumb to prevent it from popping up and possibly scratching the gun or falling to the floor. Hope this helps.
Keith

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

The above post is excellent advice, and all of the things listed are what I do, or have done when re-installing a sideplate. The thumb to hold onto the plate when removing it is very important, especially if you want to keep from rolling the top edge of the plate and making it look bad.

 

[Easy]

Warning-New Problem

I am reviving this thread because of a new problem I have encountered. Hopefully someone will be able to give me some advice. If not, it may serve as a warning for others.

I have removed side plates on a half dozen or more S&W revolvers. Mostly much older models but I have also done it on my five year old Performance Centre 627 which was a simple process as the side plate was designed the same as the older guns.

The plate has always come off and been replaced easily using methods described earlier in this thread.

Yesterday I took the side plate off of a buddy's new Classic Model 25 to put in a Wolff spring kit at his request. First of all the tolerances because of the new CAD/CAM machining are incredibly tight. It took a good 20 minutes to tap the plate off by hitting the grip frame with a plastic hammer. I can usually do an entire spring replacement in much less than 20 minutes.

Some observations. The new Classic N fame gun has a fourth screw at the top of the side plate with a large head covering the hairline gap between side plate and frame. At first I thought this was cosmetic, but when the gun was apart I discovered that S&W engineers have now eliminated the little tang that held the top of the side plate in place without a screw.

Another observation is that the sides of the side plate where they contact the frame are completely square. On all other side plates I have enountered there seems to be a slight taper so you can start the side plate back in place easily. With the square surfaces and super tight tolerances it is very difficult to even start the side plate back into place. And once it is started after a lot of fiddling it sits so proud of the frame that there is no way you can feel if the hammer block lever is correctly positioned - and it is impossible to start the screws to pull the plate gently into place. I ended up protecting the plate and gently tapping it until the screws caught some thread. It took a lot of time and several tries before I got the hammer block aligned as there is no feedback from the feel of the plate snapping home as it does on my other guns.

By alternately tapping and taking up the slack on the screws I have managed to almost draw the plate home to its correct position... but I am afraid to put more pressure on the screws because I know I am at the verge of deforming the heads or breaking the screws.

Rather than cause damage to the gun I have left the plate proud of the frame about a sixteenth of an inch until I can get some advice. I know the hammer block is not the problem as the gun cycles perfectly and I can see the hammer block moving up and down as it should.

Has anyone encountered a similar problem with the latest generation of S&W revolvers? I am getting a feeling that there is a special factory process for installing the side plates that may defeat those who like to do their own smithing? Or this could just be a unique gun.

Any helpful comments or advice would be appreciated.

 

[-db-]

I've found that reinstalling stubborn side plates, which are basically an interference fit, can be accomplished using an old machinists' trick- coat the plate with thin oil and wrap it in paper and put it in a freezer for 20 minutes. Remove it, wipe it down to remove any condensation/frost and it should drop right into place. Freezing the plate shrinks it a thousandth of an inch or so allowing it to easily fit into the frame without having to apply undue pressure or pounding on the plate risking damaging the edges.

 

[hobby-gunsmith]

I concur with bis45. Do not force it in. You can easily reinstall it without a hammer with practice.
Nick

 

[Easy]

I concur with bis45. Do not force it in. You can easily reinstall it without a hammer with practice.
Nick

Thanks Nick. I have reinstalled a lot of sideplates and have had quite a bit of practice. Believe me, there is nothing easy about this sideplate on this new Classic S&W made within the last year. The sideplate is produced to extremely close tolerances through CAD/CAM... and is not hand fit like the ones on most S&W revolvers we are talking about on this site.

For anyone wanting to work on their own guns I hope this gun is the exception rather than the rule.

Easy

 

[Easy]

I've found that reinstalling stubborn side plates, which are basically an interference fit, can be accomplished using an old machinists' trick- coat the plate with thin oil and wrap it in paper and put it in a freezer for 20 minutes. Remove it, wipe it down to remove any condensation/frost and it should drop right into place. Freezing the plate shrinks it a thousandth of an inch or so allowing it to easily fit into the frame without having to apply undue pressure or pounding on the plate risking damaging the edges.

Thanks -db-. I was wondering if freezing the side plate would help. It looks like we are going to have to give it a try as I am not optimistic that the side plate screws are going to be able to draw the plate home.

I will let you know how it works out.

Easy

 

[3strokes]

I have found that pulling the hammer back ever so slightly often aligns the hammer-block and makes it much easier to get the sideplate back on with my model 10. Never had to use anything more than thumb pressure to get it seated back in place.

Am gonna have to try this "trick".

 

[garbler]

VM is spot on. You should not tap or pound a sideplate back into place. They should go back just as he said, by using your thumbs. They can be drawn down tight after that with the screws. Just because you have to use a babbit to tap the plate loose, is not a green light to do it when putting it back. Watch a S&W trained armorer put one back. He won't use a hammer handle or anything else.

All it takes is for the hammer block to be slightly out of place, and if you rap on the plate, you'll definately booger up the sideplate edges at the top especially.

I will second, third and fourth this advice. DO NOT HIT, TAP or IMPACT the side plate into place. And if it " snaps " into position something is adrift and not right. This is a finess job and like the other guys said you gently push it in from the top forward corner where the tab is and finess it down into place with your fingers. Of course if you have jumbled parts it ain't gonna go.

Good luck