Help! Stuck screw

[Diablo982]

I recently purchased a police trade-in Model 64 from a local gun store. Overall its in decent shape, but definitely in need of a good cleaning. After an external cleaning I decided it was time to remove the cylinder and faceplate. The first two screws came loose with firm pressure. Then it was time for the next screw. It wouldn't budge. In fact it held so tight I wouldn't be surprised if it was secured with red locktite. Fearing I would damage the slot, I gave up until I can figure out a plan B.

Does anyone have suggestions for unscrewing a stuck screw? I considered heating the gun to loosen any glue, but I don't even know if that's the problem. Will heating it possibly damage the gun? Any help is appreciated.

 

[Cpo1944]

Heat will break the stuck screw loose, but do not use an open flame -like a propane torch- only use a electrical heat gun and be gentle with both the heat as well as the screw driver. If you don`t have a heat gun you could use a soldering iron or gun by holding the tip on the screw.
Actually the soldering iron might be the best because it would keep the heat localized on just the offending screw.
Another option and perhaps the best one is to just spray carburetor cleaner inside the gun and blow it out with compressed air and leave the stuck screw for another time. Those small screws are remarkably strong but I sure would hate to break one of them off in the frame, and I`m afraid you may be headed there, so please be gentle. Good luck keep us informed. Jack

 

[1911 45]

If you think the screw has loctite on it use a soldering iron to heat it the screw head up.

 

[Cholo]

After following the advice above, secure the gun well and with a proper fitting high quality hollow ground screwdriver, give the handle a few gentle taps to help break the screw loose. If you get it started, go slowly and use a penetrating oil. Haste really does make waste. Good luck!

 

[Mike McLellan]

All good advice. But should be preceded by a good soaking in Kroil for a couple of days.

 

[Diablo982]

Thanks for the advice. I have a soldering iron, but will pick up some Kroil this weekend and soak it first.

 

[Narragansett]

Heat will break the stuck screw loose, but do not use an open flame -like a propane torch- only use a electrical heat gun and be gentle with both the heat as well as the screw driver. If you don`t have a heat gun you could use a soldering iron or gun by holding the tip on the screw.
Actually the soldering iron might be the best because it would keep the heat localized on just the offending screw.
Another option and perhaps the best one is to just spray carburetor cleaner inside the gun and blow it out with compressed air and leave the stuck screw for another time. Those small screws are remarkably strong but I sure would hate to break one of them off in the frame, and I`m afraid you may be headed there, so please be gentle. Good luck keep us informed. Jack

I have a question here, unrelated to the screw issue. I have always resisted using products like Gunscrubber and carburetor cleaner, because they are bare metal cleaners. If you spray into the gun with carb cleaner to disolve any junk and dust etc, then blow it out with compressed air, how and what do you use after this process to lubricate the assembly inside the frame?

 

[Cardboard_killer]

If you spray into the gun with carb cleaner to disolve any junk and dust etc, then blow it out with compressed air, how and what do you use after this process to lubricate the assembly inside the frame?

With my hard to disassemble/reassemble guns (colt DA revolvers--ugg) I will spray the gun out with gun scrubber and follow it up with spraying the gun out with an aerosol CLP. I let the gun sit for awhile then work the action to ensure the CLP has gotten around, then use air to push the excess out and wipe down. I sometime repeat the CLP spray if the CLP excess is very dirty.

I mainly use gunscrubber as a degreaser, however.

 

[Cpo1944]

Like Cardboard Killer, I follow up after the cleaner with a spray lube like penetrating oil, or whatever is at hand and blow out the excess with more compressed air.I then put a few drops of good quality gun oil on the hammer and trigger and work it in. I have had good success with that method for more than 40 years.

 

[hobby-gunsmith]

stuck screw

The best way to approach the screw is to soak it in Kroil. Let it stand overnight. I would reapply the Kroil and with a good hallow ground screwdriver(gunsmith screwdriver) give it a tap with a 4 oz hammer and try to greak it free. If that fails, use a propane torch and use the flame that is not the hottest and move the flame around the screw area and keep up the motion. When you see smoke from the Kroil, stop and set the screwdriver in the slot of the screw and give it another hit with the hammer and you should be able to free the screw. The screw, probably, has old solvent imbedded in the threads. If that doesn't work, you will need to approach it with an impact driver and tap it with the same hammer with a direct hit and it should free it. Go slow and not deform the heade. I have had good success with this method for all of the frozen screws I have encountered in removing old screws.

Nick

 

[stu1ritter]

For a stuck screw, after the Kroil treatment, has anyone attempted to use an impact driver with a correct fitting screw tip?
Stu

 

[Cardboard_killer]

If using heat, and locktite is not the culprit, the idea would be to heat the area to a high temperature, then, try to cool the screw faster than the gun (for example, use an ice cube place on the screw only). As the screw shrinks away from the threads, it will suck in the penetrating oil (Kroil or liquid wrench). Leave it overnight, and then try it again. I'd keep repeating that process three or four times before using an impact driver (or drilling out the screw). You could also try freezing the gun for a similar effect, although you have to keep the area saturated with "running" penetrating oil.

Hmm, anyone every try liquid nitrogen, or would that crack the metal?