Help with M&P DOB

[madcratebuilder]

This is my first older S&W. My normal carry is a M640 w/Crimson Trace laser grips, it is also the 'night stand' gun. I sometimes have to leave my carry piece in my vehicle for short periods of time, and in the nightstand when away from home. I thought it might be a good idea to use a less costly gun that has the potential to be stolen. I ran across this M&P for $200 and being a tight gun I bought it. Ran a few dozen rounds through it this morning, shoots good. I'm pleased. The serial# is C 3784XX, 192?
I think I want to go over this with cold blue, just a general clean up. I though it would be wise to run this by the folks that know before I alter it. Also, are this the correct grips? Thanks.

 

[madcratebuilder]

This is my first older S&W. My normal carry is a M640 w/Crimson Trace laser grips, it is also the 'night stand' gun. I sometimes have to leave my carry piece in my vehicle for short periods of time, and in the nightstand when away from home. I thought it might be a good idea to use a less costly gun that has the potential to be stolen. I ran across this M&P for $200 and being a tight gun I bought it. Ran a few dozen rounds through it this morning, shoots good. I'm pleased. The serial# is C 3784XX, 192?
I think I want to go over this with cold blue, just a general clean up. I though it would be wise to run this by the folks that know before I alter it. Also, are this the correct grips? Thanks.

 

[Art Doc]

The letter prefix serial numbers are post-war and your gun is clearly a post-war model with the hammer, front sight and post-war short action being plainly evident.

C378,000 would be 1955-56 I think. Prolly '56.

Nice gun. I would do nothing except wipe it down and use it as is. It really looks fairly decent and any attempt at improvement may backfire leaving it worse looking.

And welcome to the forum.

This is the pre-war long action M&P. Note the round front sight, hammer with the spur at the top rather than in the middle, and the small indentation under the cylinder release.

 

[Joe W]

A "general cleanup" = YES, a "cold blue" = NO.

I have to agree with SaxonPig, it could end up looking worse with a cold blue. For what you intend it for it is fine as it is. Also the fact it has no upper sideplate screw also indicates it is post 1955.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Thanks guy's. After I posted I figured out that the C prefix meant later model. So is this still a pre model 10? I'll put the cold blue away.
Is it safe to fire +P's? Thanks again.
Steve

 

[mikepriwer]

If you open the cylinder, in the area where the crane, or yoke, mates to the frame,
there will a model number stamped, if there is one. If you see Model 10, then it is
a Model 10. If that is not stamped there, then it is a pre-Model 10.

I don't think the gun was intended for +p. Usually a few will not hurt it, but
generally those heavier loads need a heavier frame, like a .357 Magnum gun.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Art Doc]

The debate continues regarding +P (which is loaded well below max pressures but still concerns some folks).

I am not concerned at all by +P and I find it a decent plinking load. Note the boxes of +P in the photo with my 1942 Military & Police (that's what yours is properly called, BTW). All of it was fired through that gun. The plastic boxes are some of the 400 or so handloads that were also shot in it. That load is a 125 JHP at 1,150 FPS, much hotter than +P.

After all that, nothing. No effect to the gun at all.

IMO shoot all the +P you want. It's not a hot load, anyway.

 

[Kamerer]

Good, very good find. I am looking hard myself for a early 10 or pre-10 for casual carry. $200 was a good price. If you find more like that, give me a call!

The only thing I'd do to improve it is to put a pachmayr or tyler adapter under the grip arch to improve the pointing and control.

 

[km371]

That revolver has a lot of honest wear. It should make a great shooter,as long as you feedit the regular stuff.I like the way the grips were sanded down.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Kamerer, If I run across one I well e-mail you.
I completely stripped and cleaned my pre-10 yesterday. I am surprised st how smooth it is and it does not look bad with the crude removed.