Hello, I have my granddad’s S & W .32 top break revolver. I don’t know a lot about it other than reading everyone else’s forums and finally able to decipher the serial number (228555).) I wanted to restore it (just for looks and for myself) but was advised not to do that for authenticity reasons. I would really like to replace the broken mother-of-pearl grip but I can’t remember what type of grip it is (“j”, “k”,etc) nor can I find them. Any help with info on this firearm and/or grip info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. KdHill
Help with my .32 top break revolver
- Thread starter kasiehill
- Start date
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mmaher94087
Member
KdHill, your best bet is to place a Want Ad on this forum and check eBay or places like Gun Broker as they will show up occasionally. Look for S&W .32 Double Action, grips. Fourth Model if you can find them. The frame designation was 'R' but few people know that. S&W finished the grips to the frame of each revolver so the grips may not fit well.
Hello hill, a lot of us have similar guns from g-dad. Best to leave metal as is and just be on the look out for a left grip.
Welcome to the forums from the cotton and peanut covered plains of the Wiregrass, Kasie! Forum member glowe may be along shortly. He has posted before about grips for the top breaks and what modern grips will work. NCO makes replica grips for the small frame top breaks but they are plastic, not hard rubber. You really want hard rubber if you can find them. eBay is a good place to look. You might also find some pearls there but be prepared for the $$.
As far as refinishing goes, these .32 top breaks are not very valuable and a quality refinish will likely cost more than the gun is worth. But, it's an heirloom...so it's priceless. I see no reason why you shouldn't have it replated if you want to improve its appearance. If you decide to go this way, find a gunsmith that can disassemble and reassemble the gun correctly. Don't plate the hammer, trigger, trigger guard and latch knurling because they were case colored, case colored, case colored and blued, respectively. Perhaps someone with a pristine .32 DA will post a picture you can use as an example...actually, I once owned a .32 DA that was in excellent condition. Here's what yours should look like if you have it refinished.
As far as refinishing goes, these .32 top breaks are not very valuable and a quality refinish will likely cost more than the gun is worth. But, it's an heirloom...so it's priceless. I see no reason why you shouldn't have it replated if you want to improve its appearance. If you decide to go this way, find a gunsmith that can disassemble and reassemble the gun correctly. Don't plate the hammer, trigger, trigger guard and latch knurling because they were case colored, case colored, case colored and blued, respectively. Perhaps someone with a pristine .32 DA will post a picture you can use as an example...actually, I once owned a .32 DA that was in excellent condition. Here's what yours should look like if you have it refinished.
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Yea, but that grip tells a story. That DA 38 holds a lot of history. Just display with the left side down.
Boulder350
Member
Like Mike said, its a DA 38 which is larger than the 32. Guy posted a picture of a 32. Notice how much shorter his cylinder is. Wish I owned an old gun with family history.
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mmaher94087
Member
OK, I'll cop to following the lead and calling the OP's revolver a .32. It is NOT a .32. It IS a .38 DA. Look for .38 DA grips.
