HOUSTON RICK
Member
Nice, very nice. Congratulations.
Help with my 'new' gun?
- Thread starter keith.lambert.37
- Start date
scooter123
Member
Your Grandfather had EXCELLENT taste in firearms, probably had a Buick Grand National to terrorize Corvette drivers with. Because that is sort of the Grand National, Revolver Edition. Nickle K frame that just says Old Geezers Barbeque Gun, but a 3 inch barrel for near perfect hip carry and balance in a 357 Magnum means top rate PERFORMANCE.
In regards to what ammunition to use in this treasure, first an explanation. There is an expression of energy in Newtonian Physics called Kinetic Energy. The formula for Kinetic Energy is 1/2 times Mass times the Velocity Squared. This means a bullet moving faster can impart MORE energy than a slower moving heavier bullet. One area where the K frame S&W is a bit marginal in strength is the flat on the barrel extension inside the frame window. If a bullet hits this Forcing Cone with too much Energy too many times it can cause the barrel to split and in time also cause the frame to split as that crack extends into the area retained by the frame.
History has demonstrated that a 125 grain bullet loaded at the top of the pressure curve for 357 Magnum can cause the forcing cone to split. Some reports have this happening with the first box of 125 Grain 357 Magnum used but it usually take at least a year of shooting and sometimes never happens. Probably a result of variations in the Ultimate Strength of the steel used from batch to batch. Note, this ONLY applies to 357 Magnum ammunition because the 38 special operates at a much lower pressure that is completely safe at any bullet weight. So, to add a bit of a safety factor there is just one rule you need to remember when contemplating the use of 357 Magnum in this revolver, only use loads that feature 158 grain bullets and do NOT use any high power version (Buffalo Bore, Double Tap, and other "maximum" energy loads).
I would recommend American Eagle 158 grain Semi Jacketed Soft Point. I also suspect that you will find the first round of this ammunition you fire is a LOT more powerful than you expected. It will also be loud enough out of that short barrel than every single person in the range will know you are shooting a REAL Magnum, the muzzle blast will be nearly as loud as a 12 gage shotgun. BTW, I tend to avoid using 357 Magnums with any handgun with a barrel shorter than 4 inches because IMO they are just too loud for an indoor range. I also find shooting 38 special in my 357 Magnum revolvers and rifles is quite rewarding and enjoyable even if I do have to spend a bit of extra time cleaning up the powder ring due to the shorter case.
Note, that is a hint to consider using 38 special as a primary ammunition because in a revolver as light as your model 13 the 357 Magnum is rather brutal and WILL lead you to starting to flinch. Take that advice from a now Old Geezer with more that 40 years of handgun shooting experience, shoot too many "Hot" loads in one session and you WILL develop a Flinch, that is 100% guaranteed.
In regards to what ammunition to use in this treasure, first an explanation. There is an expression of energy in Newtonian Physics called Kinetic Energy. The formula for Kinetic Energy is 1/2 times Mass times the Velocity Squared. This means a bullet moving faster can impart MORE energy than a slower moving heavier bullet. One area where the K frame S&W is a bit marginal in strength is the flat on the barrel extension inside the frame window. If a bullet hits this Forcing Cone with too much Energy too many times it can cause the barrel to split and in time also cause the frame to split as that crack extends into the area retained by the frame.
History has demonstrated that a 125 grain bullet loaded at the top of the pressure curve for 357 Magnum can cause the forcing cone to split. Some reports have this happening with the first box of 125 Grain 357 Magnum used but it usually take at least a year of shooting and sometimes never happens. Probably a result of variations in the Ultimate Strength of the steel used from batch to batch. Note, this ONLY applies to 357 Magnum ammunition because the 38 special operates at a much lower pressure that is completely safe at any bullet weight. So, to add a bit of a safety factor there is just one rule you need to remember when contemplating the use of 357 Magnum in this revolver, only use loads that feature 158 grain bullets and do NOT use any high power version (Buffalo Bore, Double Tap, and other "maximum" energy loads).
I would recommend American Eagle 158 grain Semi Jacketed Soft Point. I also suspect that you will find the first round of this ammunition you fire is a LOT more powerful than you expected. It will also be loud enough out of that short barrel than every single person in the range will know you are shooting a REAL Magnum, the muzzle blast will be nearly as loud as a 12 gage shotgun. BTW, I tend to avoid using 357 Magnums with any handgun with a barrel shorter than 4 inches because IMO they are just too loud for an indoor range. I also find shooting 38 special in my 357 Magnum revolvers and rifles is quite rewarding and enjoyable even if I do have to spend a bit of extra time cleaning up the powder ring due to the shorter case.
Note, that is a hint to consider using 38 special as a primary ammunition because in a revolver as light as your model 13 the 357 Magnum is rather brutal and WILL lead you to starting to flinch. Take that advice from a now Old Geezer with more that 40 years of handgun shooting experience, shoot too many "Hot" loads in one session and you WILL develop a Flinch, that is 100% guaranteed.
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keith.lambert.37
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Wow I SURE am glad I joined the forum and got this advice before heading to the range with my 'new' gun... here are the only two boxes of ammo I got with it. Yup... 125gr. JHP 357... they're still full boxes tho at least.
Any thoughts on the +P's are they not recommended either?
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Any thoughts on the +P's are they not recommended either?
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Jingles
Member
+P's are fine, as are a limited amount of the 357 125 gr. Personally though I just shoot standard 38 Special through mine - it will do the job just fine and is a lot easier on the hands.
Shoot any 38 specials and you will be fine. I prefer anything with a full or partial copper jacket which can make cleaning easier. I don't think you have a great worry about shooting the shorter 38's rather than the slightly longer. 357's.
Clean the gun frequently and you will avoid any carbon buildup issues and the advice to use a 40 caliber brush in the cylinder chambers is a good one.
Keep asking questions we are all full of answers.
Clean the gun frequently and you will avoid any carbon buildup issues and the advice to use a 40 caliber brush in the cylinder chambers is a good one.
Keep asking questions we are all full of answers.
Gripgrabber
US Veteran
That's a beautiful 13!! The closest I have come is a 4" nickel 13-1! But I did come close recently with a 3" 65-5! And a 3" 64-1.
3" smiths rule!
3" smiths rule!
Wow I SURE am glad I joined the forum and got this advice before heading to the range with my 'new' gun... here are the only two boxes of ammo I got with it. Yup... 125gr. JHP 357... they're still full boxes tho at least.
Any thoughts on the +P's are they not recommended either?
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The Plus P's are fine... Save the 125 grain .357 JHP's for the Model 28 you will invariably search out and buy.
Hillbilly77
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My grandfather recently willed his 80's? revolver to me. I'm not especially familiar with older guns and was wondering if anyone could help identify its age.
Based on my understanding of the Special Order number, your gun was built on March 5, 1985.
The way it works is this:
The first number in 4-digit Special Order number denotes the year of manufacture. It is assumed that you know the decade. You can usually figure that out with the serial number.
The next 3 numbers are the day of the year.
In your case, 5064 - the 64th day of 1985 = March 5.
P.S.
Welcome to the forum.
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bananaman
Member
Welcome to the FORUM! That is a beauty! Hang on to it! They are desirable, and should shoot well. I have a -2, 4" blue. It feels so good in my hand, and shoots well. It has never had a magnum round through it as far as I know. Bob
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keith.lambert.37
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Based on my understanding of the Special Order number, your gun was built on March 5, 1985.
The way it works is this:
The first number in 4-digit Special Order number denotes the year of manufacture. It is assumed that you know the decade. You can usually figure that out with the serial number.
The next 3 numbers are the day of the year.
In your case, 5064 - the 64th day of 1985 = March 5.
P.S.
Welcome to the forum.
Thanks for that detailed info on the gun and the explanation too - much appreciated. March 5, 1985 that's great.
Keith
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Bill In Texas
Member
I like it! Congratulations on a nice gun!
