Hey everyone

[collinsvillejones]

My name is Brent I'm a new member. I'm into WWII stuff , home defense and conceal carry, I'm also an NRA member and a member of the Garand Collectors Association. I'm married with 2 kids 15 and 7. I'm the proud owner of a stainless S&W 629 classic 44mag.

I bought an old S&W today, could you guys and gals help figure out what I have? The person I got it from says Model 21. I'm not so sure, but then again I dont know much about S&W. I was hoping it was a Victory model. I paid 125.00 cash. It's a shooter, I ran six rounds through it to make sure it would fire. The barrel has SMITH & WESSON on one side and 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG on the other side. As you can see it's in rough shape. I cant read the other markings on it, they are about worn away.

S/N D104XXX

Thanks, Brent
let me know if the pics dont post.

 

[tackdrvr]

Welcome
Some of the experts will be along shortly to id what you have. I'm pretty positive it is not a model 21. I think you hit the nail on the head with the $125.00 shooter you described. Looks to me to have been refinished at least once in it's past. oOne ot the sideplate screws is wrong (the phillips) It also looks lke the front sight has been worked on. Ya gotta admit, she has character.

 

[pace40]

Looks like a model 10 from about 1970. Grips are much earlier.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[DWalt]

I'd say definitely a 1969-70 M&P that has been rode hard and put away wet. Likely to have non-original (and earlier) wooden grips. If it still locks up nice and tight and cylinder timing is OK, the price is not terrible as a shooter. If it's sloppy, you paid too much. There is no collectible value in that condition unless it is associated with some historical incident or person.

 

[collinsvillejones]

The info I've got so far has been really helpful, I have always wanted to learn how to take apart a double action revolver so I think this gun will be a good trainer for me, Think I'll break it down and sand all the dirt and finish off the metal and maybe put in new springs. It locks up and shoots good so it should make a great gun for the wife and kids to train with.

Do they make a spring kit for this gun? What do you think I should replace when take it apart? And where would be a good place to get parts? Thanks for all the help....... Brent

 

[BEARMAN]

Welcome Brent, from Tennessee.

 

[bamabiker]

I'd give it a good cleaning and some lube, put it together and shoot a couple of boxes of shells. If it does OK I'd leave it alone and not put any $ into it. MHO.

 

[Decker]

I'm not a knowledgable collector myself, but a friend of mine had a Victory model once, so someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that all of the Victory models had a lanyard ring on the bottom of the grip.

 

[mc5aw]

Brent ... You can tell the grips are non-original because a) they are diamonds, b) photo 3 shows ill-fitment on the frame, high up near the medallion. Based on the exterior finish, you should thoroughly check out the chambers and barrel for corrosion, blockage, etc, before firing anything else through it. Once your have everything cleaned up in and out, it will make for a utilitarian shooter.

For parts, check Numrich or S&W direct to start. Good luck with it.

 

[murphydog]

I'm not a knowledgable collector myself, but a friend of mine had a Victory model once, so someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that all of the Victory models had a lanyard ring on the bottom of the grip.

It does not appear to be a Victory Model, as these have the four sideplate screws and the lanyard ring as you noted. As noted above, this is a later model 10 from the SN.

 

[ar15ed]

welcome to the forum!

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Definitely not a Victory Model. As noted, the Victory Models had four sideplate screws and a screw in front of the trigger guard. Hammer and front sight are wrong for a Victory model too.

The easiest way to determine what it is is to open up the cylinder and see what is stamped on the frame under the cylinder yoke. Smiths of this era usually have the model stamped right there on the frame. It should say something like Mod 10 or Mod 10-2 or something. That will tell you exactly what you have.

 

[Rugskipper]

That one has had a hard life. I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest a finish. I personally couldn't live with a gun in my safe that rough. It's too far gone to re-blue, but I'd suggest a good bead blast and a duracoat finish. It will look more like a Victory (even though it isn't) and you'll have a good utilitarian shooter that won't try to rust up every time you even look at it.

 

[lebomm]

I'm with the rest here - you've got a late-60s model 10 with 1920s grips. Looks like maybe it spent some time underwater. The beadblast and Duracoat suggestion is a good one to preserve what's left of this gun, but I wouldn't put much more $ into it, either. $125 was about right.

Larry

 

[Hawker Man]

It is possible that those grips , cleaned up and refinished could get your investment back and then some. There is a guy, I think on the this forum that does excellent restoration on S&W grips. Do some searching. You might be able to help someone looking for a set of those grips, get back your investment, pay for a duracoat and a set of pachmayer grips

 

[JSR III]

What you have is a model 10 from around 1969 if shipped anywhere near sequence. As several have stated the stocks are from an earlier gun. If you remove the stocks, you may find a number stamped or written in pencil on the right stock panel. That number is the serial number of the gun that these stocks belong to. The seller was incorrect as to it being a model 21 as it would then have to be a .44 S&W special and not a .38 S&W special.

The gun is fairly common and unless it was owned by someone famous, is only worth what you paid for it. The finish is rough and the stocks are well worn. I would take it apart, clean it good, lubricate it and throw a coat of wax on it. It is a shooter grade gun and would not be worth putting any more in to it unless you have money to burn.

 

[Art Doc]

Look here for the model number. Will look like MOD 10-5.

As noted it's a Model 10 made much later than WW II.

Apparently it's been stored for the past 10 years in a bucket of sea water.

 

[sw44spl]

the 4 line marking on the frame is a clue.ww2 era only had made in USA. and I like the philips head screw on the sideplate.