fredj338
Member
Just one more reason to avoid TG. AMong others; burns hotter than other powders, small volume to charge wt & smokey w/ lead bullets. It is one powder I NEVER recommend or no longer use.
Hodgdon Titegroup Problem!
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One of the reasons I started using it over the old Bullseye was because of the small charge weight required (like Bullseye) and it is supposed to be less position sensitive in low volume - high capacity cartridges.
Truth be told, I do find that it works as advertised and is cleaner burning than the old Bullseye. Also meters quite well! I find that most of the smoke is from the bullet lube, not the powder.
I can honestly say I have not had any bad experiences or problems with the Titegroup powder, and have found it to be a modern replacement for the old standby - Bullseye.
Chief38
Truth be told, I do find that it works as advertised and is cleaner burning than the old Bullseye. Also meters quite well! I find that most of the smoke is from the bullet lube, not the powder.
I can honestly say I have not had any bad experiences or problems with the Titegroup powder, and have found it to be a modern replacement for the old standby - Bullseye.
Chief38
Titegroup Powder Problems
I'm a bit tardy in responding- 3 years- but I experienced the exact same problems with Titegroup only mine were a bit more complicated. First, I'm using a Hornady Progressive. The powder cylinder is made of polystyrene as far as I can tell. Second, the interior of the Hornady hopper is painted. Titegroup reacted with both the paint and the plastic. It could not be removed. It had etched, and adhered to, the plastic and paint. I called Hornady and they said it was due to static electricity. Wrong. My solution was to replace the tube with acrylic. Then I removed the paint inside the hopper using a paint remover. This solved the problems. Unfortunately I had to buy six feet of acrylic tubing and cut it down. In addition, I now use an industrial anti-static spray, Sprayon SP 610, available from Grainger. Aside from this, Titegroup is an excellent powder. I use it for .45 ACP. It is not position sensitive and burns very cleanly.
I'm a bit tardy in responding- 3 years- but I experienced the exact same problems with Titegroup only mine were a bit more complicated. First, I'm using a Hornady Progressive. The powder cylinder is made of polystyrene as far as I can tell. Second, the interior of the Hornady hopper is painted. Titegroup reacted with both the paint and the plastic. It could not be removed. It had etched, and adhered to, the plastic and paint. I called Hornady and they said it was due to static electricity. Wrong. My solution was to replace the tube with acrylic. Then I removed the paint inside the hopper using a paint remover. This solved the problems. Unfortunately I had to buy six feet of acrylic tubing and cut it down. In addition, I now use an industrial anti-static spray, Sprayon SP 610, available from Grainger. Aside from this, Titegroup is an excellent powder. I use it for .45 ACP. It is not position sensitive and burns very cleanly.
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There's nothing wrong with Titegroup, Bullseye, and probably several other powders if they are properly handled. While they may eat up plastic reservoirs if left in reservoirs too long, that's no reason to discontinue the use of a suitable propellant. A reservoir should be emptied after use, even if it's only overnight. Powder belongs in a sealed, airtight container anyway if it's going to last and retain effectiveness.
Well, you never know what you will learn in a gun forum!
Been loading Titegroup for years and it has served me without complaint but I am somewhat anal in my endeavors at the loading bench and always empty my Lyman powder measure back into the container when done.
Yes you have to be careful not to double charge the cartridge because a little goes a long way with TG, there are several other "Gotcha" things when reloading that can be equally dangerous. Care when remanufacturing ammo is paramount and if one cannot do it safely then perhaps you should find a safer hobby.
jb
Been loading Titegroup for years and it has served me without complaint but I am somewhat anal in my endeavors at the loading bench and always empty my Lyman powder measure back into the container when done.
Yes you have to be careful not to double charge the cartridge because a little goes a long way with TG, there are several other "Gotcha" things when reloading that can be equally dangerous. Care when remanufacturing ammo is paramount and if one cannot do it safely then perhaps you should find a safer hobby.
jb
AveragEd
Member
Some powders will etch some plastic reservoirs - that's always been true and continues to be so emptying the measure as soon as you finish loading is a rule of thumb. I know this thread is several years old and the OP's problem has been remedied in some manner by now but for those who might find themselves in the same situation, send the powder measure back to RCBS and they will replace the reservoir tube.
You can try to do it yourself with a tube they will supply but when I could not remove all the oily protective coating on the inside of my new RCBS Competition Powder Measure years ago, they told me the tube is glued in place and very hard to remove without heating it properly. I sent the measure to them and had it back with the coating removed and a new tube installed in 10 days. Of course, in the meantime, I bought a Dillon 650 for my handgun loading and never used the RCBS measure - it's still in its box "just in case."
Ed
You can try to do it yourself with a tube they will supply but when I could not remove all the oily protective coating on the inside of my new RCBS Competition Powder Measure years ago, they told me the tube is glued in place and very hard to remove without heating it properly. I sent the measure to them and had it back with the coating removed and a new tube installed in 10 days. Of course, in the meantime, I bought a Dillon 650 for my handgun loading and never used the RCBS measure - it's still in its box "just in case."
Ed
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That kind of damage overnight?
That kind of damage overnight? I've never seen such an aggressive powder. Are any others like that? Due to the shortage I got a couple of lbs of Titegroup too.
That kind of damage overnight? I've never seen such an aggressive powder. Are any others like that? Due to the shortage I got a couple of lbs of Titegroup too.
Clovishound
Member
I started out using Titegroup. It performed well in 9mm, although it did exacerbate leading with cast bullets. Never had any problems with etching the plastic hopper in my Perfect Powder measure, or Auto disc pro, both of which use the same hopper. I never leave powder in the hopper after a loading session, but have had some powder left on the inside of the hopper from static, that I didn't bother with. Never had any stick to the plastic from anything other than the static.
The main reason I switched from TG to Universal (when I could still get Universal) was the narrow band between start and max loads.
The main reason I switched from TG to Universal (when I could still get Universal) was the narrow band between start and max loads.
gwpercle
Member
The instruction book of my 1973 Lyman 55 measure warned not to leave any type powder in the plastic hopper. It may etch the plastic.
Surprised this was not included in the RCBS instructions. Could be they assumed " everybody knows this".
Get a new tube and chalk it up to lesson learned through experience.
Gary
Surprised this was not included in the RCBS instructions. Could be they assumed " everybody knows this".
Get a new tube and chalk it up to lesson learned through experience.
Gary
boatbum101
Member
Bullseye will do the same if left in powder measure long enough .
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I have a Dillon 650 & a RCBS Rock Chucker with a RCBS powder drop. While 99% of the Titegtoup I do use goes into my Dillon hopper, once in a while I will do small batches of .357 Magnums in the RCBS and will use Titegroup. I have never experienced this etching but do routinely empty the hopper after a reloading session. I don't like leaving any powders or primers unattended in any press unless it's just for an hour or two while I eat dinner or something.
By the way, I think Titegroup is a very good powder and have been using it exclusively for my .38 Special and .357 Magnum loads to about 9 years now with excellent results and zero problems.
By the way, I think Titegroup is a very good powder and have been using it exclusively for my .38 Special and .357 Magnum loads to about 9 years now with excellent results and zero problems.
RONALD HENSLEY
Member
First I love titegroup, I use it in 45acp and 38 special, when I start doing 9mm I'll use it in that too!, I use a Lee powder measure and nothing I've ever used has etched it, that includes varget, universal, blc2, h322, h333, titegroup, I've also let powder set in it overnight on several occasions.
