Hornady LNL AP Case Feeder Opinions

[cds43016]

After much grinding and mashing of teeth, I finally got my Hornady LNL AP press to work. Right now, it is working very well. I load 9mm and 357.

As I get older, I’m starting to lose some dexterity in my left hand. It is a known condition that I will have to deal with. It’s more a nuisance than anything.

This is slowing my loading since I manually load each case. The case loading is slower than placing a bullet on the case.

I’m thinking of getting a case feeder.

What is your opinion of the Hornady Case Feeder?

I’m wondering how trouble free it really is, how easy it is to set up and change calibers, and what throughput increase does one normally get from this case feeder?

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

[Twoboxer]

There were a couple of issues with the case feeder which have been resolved by a new part, a Pivot Clamp. The part is available as a free upgrade for older case feeders, and should be included in newer ones.

The pivot (which releases one case at a time) must be level and parallel to the subplate to drop a case flat without bouncing it off or missing the ramp entirely. Unfortunately, the upward pressure required to operate the pivot would quickly force the pivot to tilt upwards and off-level because it was held by a single screw.

The new part clamps the pivot block in place and secures it with 3 screws.

The other issue with the case feeder is up top where cases are turned base-down and dropped into the feed tube. There's a sliding door there that must be properly adjusted to minimize both stuck cases and multiple feeds. It's RTFM and trial & error to get it adjusted best . . . once done, take a picture of that setting for reference the next caliber change.

When first using a case feeder plate, you will likely find the built in clutch mechanism is set too low. If so, a significant weight of cases in the bin will be enough to cause the clutch to slip and stop rotating. The clutch is adjustable - so tighten it.

TLDR: The case feeder is a very nice addition with it's new pivot clamp, time spent adjusting the sliding plate, and reading the manual to adjust the shell plate clutch. Keeping the pivot block smooth and lubed can help as well.

 

[Twoboxer]

. . . As I get older, I’m starting to lose some dexterity in my left hand. It is a known condition that I will have to deal with. It’s more a nuisance than anything.

. . .

I’m wondering how trouble free it really is, how easy it is to set up and change calibers, and what throughput increase does one normally get from this case feeder?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Trouble Free? Tried to cover that in detail in my earlier post.

Ease of caliber change? Changing from (eg) 9mm to 45ACP takes some time because nearly all the fittings from the bin to the subplate need to be changed to accommodate the larger case size.

But the biggest issue for me is not the time . . . it was remembering which parts are required lol. Solved this by marking each piece with the calibers I would need them for. Disassembling the feed train is a good time to clean and lube the required parts.

Throughput increase? Fairly significant on the Hornady because the left hand is required to feed both a case and a bullet. But the big benefit for me was avoiding left arm fatigue.

It seemed my left arm had to be held up in mid air for the entire reloading run to keep the AP running . . . exhausting for me lol. Grab a bullet, grab a case, move to the press, set case, set bullet, rinse repeat in order to be ready for the next feed requirement.

With the case feeder installed I could grab a bunch of bullets and concentrate only on that manual feed. It eliminated many trips to the bullet and case bins and gave time for rest. Arm fatigue was no longer an issue.

Hope this helps.

 

[stu1ritter]

There were a couple of issues with the case feeder which have been resolved by a new part, a Pivot Clamp. The part is available as a free upgrade for older case feeders, and should be included in newer ones.
post-snip
.

Big thanks about the update Twoboxer. Just off the phone with Hornady and I have the modification coming for my 2 LnL's. There also seems to be a modification for the V block case slider that they are sending me, but then I haven't asked about updates in a long time.

again, thanks,

Stu

 

[stu1ritter]

OOops, forgot to answer the OP.
I wouldn't own a progressive press without a case feeder. I have two LnL's, one set for small and one large primer. There have been a few adjustment difficulties over time (6 years) but they work well, I load a LOT and they just keep on feeding cases. Highly recommended.

Stu

 

[dswancutt]

I have one on my dedicated 9mm AP press, but lately have just left the hopper off and filled the feed tube with 25 pieces of brass.
Twoboxer has pretty much summed the operation up though.

 

[Carrier]

Even though I had to tweak the case feeder I put on my LNL it is working really well and it was the best thing I did. I see you load 9 mm and 357. With 9mm the case feeder loads the tube faster than I can pull the handle. However with 357 it is not so good. The tall skinny cases just don’t want to stand up in the feeder plates. I’ve tried about every mod I can find and still sucks.
Every other cartridge I load 9mm, 38 special, 40, 44 and 45 all feed great which sucks as I load more 357 than any of the others. Hornady admits that 357 doesn’t feed well.
Even with the 357 issue I wouldn’t be without the case feeder and you will be glad you did.

 

[stu1ritter]

Carrier, same problem with .357 and I go the STAR reloading machine route with long plastic tubes that I preload. Tubes are about 2.5X the size of the Hornady feed tube (I have a low ceiling) with a drilled through metal safety pin (Ace hardware) at the bottom. Each holds about 25 cases. I usually load 4 tubes at a time.

Stu

 

[cds43016]

It sounds like the case feeder is the way to go but it also seems like some tweaking will also be required. I hope it’s easier than the challenges I had with the rest of the press.

It’s disappointing the hear about the problems with the 357. Fortunately, I load far more 9mm than 357. I can use my LEE Turret Press for these or continue to load the cases manually.

I’ll let you know my results.

Thank You all for the input.

 

[Twoboxer]

. . . There also seems to be a modification for the V block case slider that they are sending me, . . . .

again, thanks,

Stu

YW

I'd appreciate it if you'd let us know what the V block slider mod is for and, more importantly, what you think of it after using it.

Guessing it's to reduce friction on the cam rod . . . can't see them doing anything else without replacing all the v-blocks too lol

 

[stu1ritter]

Hornady customer service mentioned that it was to help keep brass from tipping over as it drops from the drop tube and starts sliding forward on the V block. I'll report back on all, it's on it's way already.

Stu

 

[Twoboxer]

Hornady customer service mentioned that it was to help keep brass from tipping over as it drops from the drop tube and starts sliding forward on the V block. I'll report back on all, it's on it's way already.

Stu

Interesting. Hornady made a plastic drop tube extension for a while. Don't know if they still make it, only 3rd party makers popped up in search. Maybe they found a better way.

Thanks.

 

[stu1ritter]

The parts from Hornady arrived. The modification consists of a new bracket for the"Case Escapement Bracket Assembly". In other words, the pivot block assembly now mounts to the column with a bracket with two cross bolts (you have to drill the holes to use the new bracket) and the old through bolt from the back. I tried putting it together without any instructions (non included) and the captured nut makes it quite difficult (I. am a 30 year retired Mercedes-Benz mechanic). Went to the web site and downloaded the Case Feeder instructions for the 2015 and later case feeder and the bracket instructions were in there.

The other modification is indeed a plastic tip for the case drop tube, just like the one I had made from shrink tubing years ago, now in a hard plastic that slips over the end of the drop tube (note alignment as you slip in on).

I don't have any trouble with the pivot block assy so I probably won't go through the gyrations to install this new bracket. Might do it at some later date.

Stu

 

[cds43016]

Before I pull the pin on the case feeder, I need to verify it will fit on my bench.

Height if not a problem since my setup is in my garage with over 10 ft ceilings. My press is mounted on an Inline Fabrication Quick Change 4-inch Ultramount. From what I’m able to gather the top of the case feeder can be up to 42 inches above the bench with this setup. It’s a good thing I’m over 6 ft 2 inches tall.

The real problem is depth. My bench is 25 inches wide. The problem is that there are lights mounted on the wall over the bench that take up 9 inches of that aerial space where the hopper can potentially sit.

I saw various depth measurements on how far back the case feeder goes. But I’m not sure where the measurements are taken from.

The best place to get the measurements for me is the distance from the machined flat spots on the back of the press where the case feeder square tubing attaches to the press, and from there to the farthest back the case feeder goes.

I appreciate any information you can provide.

Thank You in advance for your help.

 

[stu1ritter]

Holding a yardstick against the back of the hopper and measuring from the mounting flats back to the stick I get 8.5".

Stu

 

[cds43016]

Holding a yardstick against the back of the hopper and measuring from the mounting flats back to the stick I get 8.5".

Stu

Thanks - looks like the case feeder will fit OK.

 

[cds43016]

I finally got my Hornady Case Feeder set up. It fits my bench space perfectly. It’s also very tall.

When I got it, it did not contain the new Cam Block Clamp nor the Case Feeder Tip Stop.

I called Hornady. They created an order for the new parts, including the square tube assembly to accommodate the extra holes needed to attach the Cam Block Clamp.

I printed the new instruction manual from the Hornady Web Site and compared all the parts from the new manual to the one that came with the press. I found a part missing from the order. It was the bolt that held the Cam Block to the Pivot Body. The new one is ¼ inch longer than the old one to accommodate for the thickness of the Cam Block.

In comparing the parts list from the new to the old manuals and what I had on hand, I found I was also missing the Hex Head Nuts that are used to hold the Cam Wire in place.

I added these additional parts to another order which arrived in less than a week.

Hornady Customer Service was very friendly and helpful. There was no charge for any of the parts.

Between the two manuals and the Hornady Videos on YouTube, I was able to get it together OK. I was also able to find the much older instruction manual referenced in the Hornady YouTube Video. It was much more informative than the glossy current manuals.

I still have some adjustment to do to get the Cam Wire set right. About 10% of the cases slightly tip and are not seated fully home. This is easily corrected with a finger push. I also get an occasional upside-down case. I’m sure I will find other issues as I move down the learning curve. It seems like a good steady cadence with the press is necessary to avoid problems.

The Cam Wire Adjustment is very sensitive and there is little room to work to make the adjustments to the Hex Nuts. It’s a bit of a pain to make small adjustments. It's easy to make matters worst than better. In all fairness I’m using the Inline Fabrication Dual Output Tray and Quick-Change Ultra Mount which may limit workspace near the Cam Wire Hex Head Nuts.

How far should I go with this? Is 100% reliability realistic and if not, what should I consider acceptable?

I’m setup for 9mm.

This is a major improvement to the press and should dramatically improve my throughput.

Thanks!

 

[Twoboxer]

100% reliability is NOT realistic. EG, you will get occasional jams up top where cases drop into the funnel.

But (eg) you should be able to adjust things so that a "finger push" is not necessary. The cam wire is easier to adjust as follows: If you need to lower it, loosen the upper nut a quarter turn then tighten the lower nut. Then make sure the top nut is tight, then the bottom nut. If the rod needs to be raised, reverse each of those 4 directions. That will move the rod in small increments.

If cases are tipping, your pivot block is not level and/or the ramp the case slides along into the shell plate is not clean and/or the pusher block needs some tweaking either an adjustment (it can be moved a bit) or some sanding . . . these are dependent on where and why the tipping is taking place.

Yes, with the IF gear in place there is NO room to work on the cam wire lol and a mildly annoying process becomes REALLY annoying. Sometimes that makes me give up and leave it set "good enough". Don't fall into that trap

 

[dswancutt]

One thing to do to increase reliability is replace the hex nuts on the cam wire with nylon lock nuts. Until I did this, the nuts where constantly loosening up and throwing everything out of wack. I am running the Inline Fabrication dual output tray and an Ultramount and it does limit the adjust ability of the cam wire.

 

[Carrier]

I find that if I just tighten the v block screw finger tight it will push cases in a lot better.