Florida J Frame
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What are your thoughts on the best choice for a self defense gun when living in a manufactured home with 6" frame walls and the nearest neighbor is only 10 feet away?
What are your thoughts on the best choice for a self defense gun when living in a manufactured home with 6" frame walls and the nearest neighbor is only 10 feet away?
Similar to whatever I carry outside the home.
i understand your point about thin walls and close neighbors. If you got caught up in a robbery at the local shop and rob, there’s likely going to be people around, maybe closer than 10’, and no walls. If you can resolve that issue with your regular carry gun without endangering those bystanders, wouldn’t you be able to do that inside your mobile home too.
But the OP isn't asking about a larger home.… The issue of using small bird shot for "the safety of others" usually comes up. The big problem is that while up close and personal, the bird shot mass stays together and can be very damaging. But, in larger homes, up and down hallways distances become such that the insignificant mass of the individual birdshot takes over and energy is lost quickly. …
Maybe...I'm going to have to agree with the folks suggesting .410 Bore/.45 Long Colt revolvers such as the Taurus Judge or Smith & Wesson Governor.
They just give the best overall balance between power and penetration, with 000 Buckshot being capable of penetrating deeply enough to reach the vitals of an attacker and deal massive damage in to process without exiting out the back. If you miss, then the shot may penetrate the walls, but it will lose a lot of energy in the process and become deformed in the process.
A larger bore Shotgun is more likely to penetrate walls, even with substantially smaller shot, and a pistol of any caliber will assuredly penetrate walls on a miss with enough energy to be deadly.
Many years ago, I was at a well known defensive firearms martial arts school taking a defensive shotgun instructor course. This subject came up. They had small sections of typical frame/sheetrock walls built for the class to field test. Someone mentioned "how about this new birdshot of non-lead projectiles". The lead instructor got interested and sent someone into town to purchase what could be found in this new type shotgun shells.
We tried out the usual Buck loads down to #4, some bird shot in No. 4 and No. 6 birdshot and got the known results. All this was in 12 ga. with 18.5" and 20" barrels with full choke. Then we tried the goose/duck loads of bismuth if I recall correctly. It was obvious to me that IF overpenetration was an issue, the lesser density of the non-lead loads was the way to go. One load had about 3 different sizes of non-lead shot in the same shot cup. The largest BB was about 0.200" dia. I have forgotten the call out for that load. BUT, it had superb performance on the walls at room distances. Then the energy and velocity dropped off and no further walls were much more than somewhat marked up. I was living in a tract home at the time and the next door houses were about 10 to 12 ft. from my house walls. I switched over to that shotshell loading until moving to a more spacious home.
The take-away lesson from all this is that the non-lead goose loads lose their energy and velocity much more quickly than even #4 buck. But, the load has sufficient energy and velocity to be of great concern to a bad person across the distance of a large room.
I have seen the actual result of an average sized, middle aged man being shot with one shot from a 12 ga. loaded with 00 Buck. He was hit in the left shoulder and chest from about 18 to 20 ft. He was the bad guy and he ran away for about four city blocks before sitting down and waiting for the medics. It was not a 1 shot stop. IIRC, he dropped his handgun, but if he hadn't, he would have been capable of return fire. So, the problem always gets back to bullet placement. Don't get me wrong. I strongly believe that a trained person with a short barrel shotgun in 12, 16, 20 ga. is well equipped to defend his family and home. But, no caliber/ga., velocity, bullet design or type of action is going to be the ultimate solution. The solution always lies in bullet placement and quick follow-up shots.
The issue of using small bird shot for "the safety of others" usually comes up. The big problem is that while up close and personal, the bird shot mass stays together and can be very damaging. But, in larger homes, up and down hallways distances become such that the insignificant mass of the individual birdshot takes over and energy is lost quickly. Heavy clothing and coats can provide very good protection from birdshot at relatively close distances. I for one will never use birdshot in a defensive shotgun.
The other common mistake is to assume that one needs a barrel with no choke whatsoever so we don't have to aim. That is easily proved wrong with some work down range. It has been known for many years that the best defensive shotgun has the tightest choke possible and benefits from being equipped with rifle type sights. IMHO, at least the front sight should be of the 'night sight' like Trijicon's Tritium bead. Think of the problem; it is a home defense firearm. Odds are that it will be low light or totally dark when it is needed to be put to use. Turning on lights to be able to see to aim is not the tactical thing to do. You know your house layout better than any bad guy. Use that to your advantage and have a shotgun that you can aim accurately in the dark.
Mea Culpa. Sorry to get on my high horse. I was once a dedicated Instructor of Home Defense with a shotgun.
Maybe...
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The other common mistake is to assume that one needs a barrel with no choke whatsoever so we don't have to aim. That is easily proved wrong with some work down range. It has been known for many years that the best defensive shotgun has the tightest choke possible...
The last sound a perp. might hear is the "Clack-Clack" of a pump shotgun.![]()
No. Just no. The racking thing is nearly as bad as uncle joe’s double barrel shots in the air thing.