How can I tell if my gun had "work done"?

duppie

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I am the proud owner of a 28-2 with a 4 inch barrel but I have yet to fire her. I've been getting acquainted with this gun over that past week and while I've not fired many S&W revolvers before, the ones I have belonged to a avid gun circuit competitor. One that stood out was a 686 4 inch that had "work done", apparently smoothing out the trigger and swapping out or modifying springs.The action was amazingly smooth and the trigger was crisp,immediate and required little effort on my part.
Is there any way to definitively tell if my gun had "work done"? The original owner was also an avid competitor but with 1911's but my 28 has a painted sight and a extremely smooth action and effortless trigger. I'm just not sure if the gun has been modified or if I'm just experiencing S&W's legendary craftsmanship.
I look forward to your opinions.
 
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I'm sure that one of the experts here can tell if a gun had been worked on. Personally I have handled several from friends that had triggers that were smooth and crisp. And they swear that nothing was ever done to them. A lot of Smiths are like that from the factory, some after a lot of rounds fired. If you like the way it functions then enjoy shooting it.
 
Hmm, I'd ask the original owner if he is still around. You could probably take it to a good local S&W gunsmith and he could probably pop off the side plate and give youa good opinion.
 
With the painted front sight, extremely smooth action and effortless trigger leads me to say it probably has been worked on. When I first got my 28-2 it had a very heavy and stiff trigger. I had a spring kit installed and boy did it make a considerable difference.
 
With the painted front sight, extremely smooth action and effortless trigger leads me to say it probably has been worked on. When I first got my 28-2 it had a very heavy and stiff trigger. I had a spring kit installed and boy did it make a considerable difference.
The more I handle it the more I tend to believe the original owner may have modified it. I would like to talk to him but he retired back to the Philippines and is quite elderly now so that may not be an option soon.
I'm off to the range tomorrow and intend to start her out slowly on some wad cutters,+Ps and a few .357's she hasn't been fired in perhaps 15 to 18 years.....can't wait.
 
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The first thing I would check is hammer push-off. After making absolutely sure the gun is unloaded, cock the hammer to full cock. Then when holding the gun in one hand, push on the hammer with moderate pressure with your other hand to see if it falls. If it does, the gun is unsafe and you probably need a new trigger to fix it. I have seen some guns used in competition that had a hammer that would "fall" under pressure, but would be unsafe to use for a carry gun.
 
The first thing I would check is hammer push-off. After making absolutely sure the gun is unloaded, cock the hammer to full cock. Then when holding the gun in one hand, push on the hammer with moderate pressure with your other hand to see if it falls. If it does, the gun is unsafe and you probably need a new trigger to fix it. I have seen some guns used in competition that had a hammer that would "fall" under pressure, but would be unsafe to use for a carry gun.
My friend with the 686 competition gun informed me of the things to look for before trading for the 28-2,that being one of them and thankfully the hammer is tight and secure.
 
A hammer may fall even if the trigger (or hammer) is in good shape. A too light rebound slide spring added to an unscrewed strain screw can be the cause of a hammer push off...
 

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