How do I clean compensated barrel
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One way to get the lead out is to put the gun on end with just the comp in a 50/50 mix of hyd. peroxide and vinegar. This will eat out the lead in 1/2 hr. to 1 hr. You need to watch the progress closely if you have a blued comp. Too long will eat the blue and start pitting the steel. You would not need to remove the comp to do that. Even if it's stainless, don't leave it in too long. Rinse with hot water when finished to clean off and stop the chemical reaction.
Once you get it cleaned, you can keep it that way by spraying either Dillon case lube or welding anti-spatter in the ports every 50 to 100 rounds.
Once you get it cleaned, you can keep it that way by spraying either Dillon case lube or welding anti-spatter in the ports every 50 to 100 rounds.
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I know. That is why I said “semi-permanently.”
Do you have a method for cleaning compensated barrels?
Anodizing seals the surface of aluminum as well as penetrating the surface. It can also provide a hardened surface. Getting what amounts to a spray paint to stick to anodized aluminum could be problematic, that is to say, it probably will not stick well to the surface.
A good coating of lubricant, inside it "before you shoot" helps a lot. Lead doesn't stick as much. I also recommend jacketed ammo.
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Personally I'd remove the compensator, get rid of the Locktite, clean the gun and just use the set screw to reinstall it. Since yo will be cleaning it on a regular basis I'd not worry too much about the set screw falling out - you will always be checkin it when re-tightening.
JohnHL
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Not to be a downer, but I would be surprised if S&W had any knowledge of the old PC guns.
I was a Harley-Davidson dealer for 30 years and the factory had very little (to none) knowledge of any of the older, limited edition models.
As many have pointed out, big companies are in business to sell product, not provide service to collectors.
John
How dirty is it? If it's cosmetic leave it alone!
If it really bothers you and you don't want to remove the comp most gunsmith's have sonic cleaners that will clean it. I have one that cleans revolver cylinders quite easily.
If it really bothers you and you don't want to remove the comp most gunsmith's have sonic cleaners that will clean it. I have one that cleans revolver cylinders quite easily.
jetjky
Member
If you have any lead to remove, try those copper chore boy pads you can get at grocery stores. Wrap some on a jag and run it down, gets the lead out.
There are 2 powders specifically formulated for comp guns. Auto Comp works best in semi autos. Power Pistol is better for revolvers, as it burns cooler, and you don't get burnt on the cylinder doing reloads. It works fine in autos as well.
According to the instructions that came with the Comp thread locking compound is recommended. The instructions also state “This product is intended as a semi-permanent installation. Constant removing and reinstalling is not recommended”.
Instructions also state “Be sure to clean the pistol and comp at 500-100 round intervals and remove any carbon build up as it may lead to damage to your comp”. So I think I will use blue-locktite and clean the gun from the muzzle.
Instructions also state “Be sure to clean the pistol and comp at 500-100 round intervals and remove any carbon build up as it may lead to damage to your comp”. So I think I will use blue-locktite and clean the gun from the muzzle.
That you for the recommendation. Looks like I will be adding another powder for my reloading bench.
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