How do you clean the front of the cylinder?

[Mickstix]

Hey, Im tryin to get the front of the cylinder on my Model 66 clean (like it was when I got it) I only shot about 2 dozen rounds through it, and the front and back of the cylinder had the powder "rings" when I was done.. I sprayed some break free on there and let it sit overnight. The back side of the cylinder came clean as a whistle, but I can still see a faint ring around all the front cylinder bores? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Mickstix]

Hey, Im tryin to get the front of the cylinder on my Model 66 clean (like it was when I got it) I only shot about 2 dozen rounds through it, and the front and back of the cylinder had the powder "rings" when I was done.. I sprayed some break free on there and let it sit overnight. The back side of the cylinder came clean as a whistle, but I can still see a faint ring around all the front cylinder bores? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[dirtygrunt95]

I use a stainless steel brush, but I'm not super picky about the rings, lets you know I shoot it.

 

[JayDubya]

I suggest you stop worrying about it. You CAN get them off, but each time you fire a round in each chamber of your revolver, they'll be back. If you prefer worrying, let me suggest something else to worry about: the little ring around your cylinder, from one cylinder stop notch to the next. It will happen, because S&W designed it that way to make sure the cylinder stop works. The ring will get just so deep, and then stop growing.

Oh! Don't remove THAT screw so as to get into the guts. I purchased my 637 five years ago, and plan to get into its guts about five years from now. As for the 686+ I bought two years ago, I expect my grandson will do it.

Cordially, Jaydubya

 

[woodsltc]

I can still see a faint ring around all the front cylinder bores?

Those are "character rings" --- shows that your gun is a shooter and it's being used as it was intended.

It's just a cosmetic thing, the rings don't hurt a thing. Unless the gun is a "safe queen", many people (not all) don't worry about them, they just clean and oil their guns after use and leave the rings as they are.

However, if the rings really bother you, there will be several people in a few minutes that can/will tell you how they clean them off.

Don

 

[pogo2]

I clean the rings on the front of stainless cylinders with a cleaning solvent named MP7, in gel form. I put it on and let it sit there a few minutes, then use an old tooth brush to scrub it. In extreme cases I use Mother's mag wheel polish and a toothbrush.

 

[Mickstix]

Im not "too" anal about cleanliness, but I figured it must be pretty easy since it was spotless when I got the gun (which was a ex-leo carry piece) and just wanted it to look as nice as it did when I got it.. If it's a pain to get em off I'll not worry about it (too much)

I was affraid to take a stainless steel brush to it.. Didnt know if it would scratch or not? I used a brass brush, and finally a flat screwdriver behind a cleaning patch.. That got most of it off, but there's still the slight ring showing, as I had mentioned in my OP.. (Note: There's nothin I can do about the turn line, so that's not gonna bother me) hehe.. Thanks for the info! And keep the cleaning ideas comin!!

 

[Paints-n-cows]

Just use the Lead Out cloth. It will clean then up and make it look perfect if you take your time.

Make sure that you don't use it on anything blued though...or you will be looking at bare metal.

 

[kdm2]

Flitz works great on a stainless gun. Don't use it on a blued gun though.

 

[zoned10x]

This question has appeared in several forums lately. What will get the vaporized-lead rings off is Simple Green household cleaner and a nylon bristle brush such as a toothbrush. It will require some elbow action, but SG appears to do a better job than the petroleum based 'lead solvents', and without marring the finish with a metal brush.

 

[july1952]

Mick,
First, try using some lead cloths and elbow grease:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.as...6&st=lead%20cloth&s=

Then coat the cylinder face with Corrosion X:

http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html

This stuff bonds to the metal and makes clean up easier the next time.

 

[Wyatt Earp]

Originally posted by JayDubya:
I suggest you stop worrying about it.

+1

 

[Owenbright]

If you polish that area , the smudge wipes off very easily.

 

[cdr]

You want an E-Z Brite Wonder Cloth by ADCO. I remove carbon deposit rings off my stainless 686 in less than 10 seconds with a quick wipe over with this remarkable product. It removes 100% of the deposit and makes the cylinder look as if it had never been shot. It's really an amazing product that you can use on the entire gun. As others have said, only for use on stainless or nickel revolvers/pistols....do not attempt to use this cloth on a blued gun.

Here's the link to the product description on ADCO's site as well as a link to where you can buy one. The best $5.29 you will ever spend and it lasts years.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=550811

http://www.adcosales.com/merchant2/

 

[BillCa]

As others have mentioned, the "Lead-Away" or ADCO cloths will help remove lead and powder fouling on stainless steel surfaces. They are NOT recommended for blued or nickeled surfaces.

Another product you can try is SLIP-2000 carbon killer. This product removes carbon easily and is recommended for cleaning carbon-fouled M16's and other weapons systems (the USAF uses gallons of it to clean the 30mm Vulcan gun on the A-10).

Use a brass bristle brush to clean the surface, not stainless which can scratch.

Once you have cleaned the surface, applying a coating to the steel will help clean-up next time. Corrosion-X, Sheath or other protectants prevent fouling from contact with the steel.

 

[manderson]

Originally posted by JayDubya:
I suggest you stop worrying about it.

+2

The only time these might pose an issue is if you shoot a lot of "special" loads and then want to move up to the magnums. The shorter special casings will leave the tough powder rings slightly deeper, and seating the magnums can be an issue. However, this is still fairly extreme. I've personally never had this problem after a good regular cleaning.

 

[tjpopkin]

I found a very quick and very inexpensive solution. "Scoth-Brite" pads come in three (3) varieties:
abrasive=green/yellow
mildly abrasive= blue/blue
least abrasive=white/pink

On stainless guns (not polished brightly), cut a strip of the green/yellow, squirt on some solvent and rub the front of the cylinder, for polished guns and being very careful with blued guns, you can use the white/pink.
These work wonders!!!!

Terry

 

[stevieboy]

I'm a fanatic about keeping my guns clean. My stainless (not blued!!!) revolvers all get the same treatment when I clean. I smear a very small quantity of J & B Bore Cleaner around the cylinder face, then brush with a bronze brush that has been sprayed with solvent. Then, I wipe everything off with a paper towel. It takes me about 2 - 3 minutes to make the cylinder face pristine, using this technique.

I use a different technique with my blued guns. Those get wiped vigorously with a Pro Shot metal care cloth. That takes off virtually all of the fouling without difficulty.

 

[zoned10x]

Fwiw, any form of abrasive whether lead cloth, pad, or wire brush, removes metal. If you shoot several times a week and routinely clean the cylinder face with an abrasive, you will eventually open the gap. Wire brushes and Scotch-Brite pads should produce measurable results.

If pristine handguns are important to you, consider an ultrasonic cleaner. I used to be employed at an indoor range which had one and they do work.

Branson:
http://tinyurl.com/5enlkq
http://tinyurl.com/5enwu5

L&R:
http://tinyurl.com/6kj46m
http://tinyurl.com/6oweq7

 

[ditrina]

Lead away cloth works spectacular on the front( or any other part) of a 66. or any other stainless gun..
Tried it for the first time a few months ago and was amazed how effortless it was..
Good luck