How do you clean your chambers?

gwalchmai

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2005
Messages
509
Reaction score
109
I have a 625 in .45 ACP. It occasionally hangs up when inserting the moonclips and it helps if I clean the chambers real well. I use a bronze brush with Hoppes followed by a nylon brush on a cordless drill, then finish with a dry patch. This seems to work well but I wonder if anyone else has any other recommendations.

Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad
I clean similar to the way you do, but I don't use an electric drill. I just use dry patches in a slotted cleaning rod.

Are the ctgs. hanging up going into the chambers? I used to have a 1917 & if the moon clips were bent even slightly, sometimes they'd hang up.
Frank
 
I clean similar to the way you do, but I don't use an electric drill. I just use dry patches in a slotted cleaning rod.

Are the ctgs. hanging up going into the chambers? I used to have a 1917 & if the moon clips were bent even slightly, sometimes they'd hang up.
Frank
Yes, they are, but only when dirty. I suspected bent clips, too.
 
3 passes with a bore snake which has had clp applied to each end.
 
I'm an IDPA shooter with a 686 and a 67. After 3 or 4 stages, I use a Tornado brush followed by a 40 cal nylon brush. Makes reloads much quicker with no problem.
 
Last edited:
Typically a few passes of the bronze brush in each cylander is plenty.
 
I recommend Brownell's bronze chamber brushes.

These are not only over sized to fit the chamber, they're made of a extra stiff bristle.
These will usually clean even a really dirty chamber in one pass, and will do so without using a drill.

The way I use them is to "screw" the brush into the chamber until about the front 1/3rd is sticking out the other end, then rotate the brush a turn or two, push the rest of the way through, then pull back out.
That usually removes all fouling.
 
Normally a bronze brush, but if carbon or lead gets real heavy a Lewis Lead Remover or Chore Boy wrapped around a brush.
 
Are you shooting lead? It's kinda grabby trying to slip it into non chamfered chambers. If not chamfered that'll do the trick usually.
 
I find it helps to let the CLP sit for a while before I bronze brush it out. Swab the chamber a few times with a well saturated brush or patch, but then let it soak for a while. I shoot mostly 38s and use a 40 brush to do the cylinders when they need it. If you can get oversize brushes in 45 (as it sounds like Brownells offers) I'd certainly use one to do the scrubbing after the CLP has soaked.
 
I have a finishing reamer and use it held loosely by hand on very rare occasions to clean out the rings of .38 Specials in .357 Mag chambers.

Hoppe's or Lewis lead removers work in chambers as well as in barrels for the regular cleaning.
 
I have a quart jar full of Hoppe's #9 that I put the cylinder in, and let it soak for a day or two. Then I use a stiff brush in the chambers, and follow with patches. Soaking really loosens the fouling, and what's left in the chambers pushes right out once the brush has loosened it even more. I'm either lazy or efficient.........you pick.
 
I have a number of used .30 chamber brushes such as were used for cleaning .30-06 and 7.62mm machine gun chambers. I find they do a good job of cleaning out the fouling, etc. in the .45 ACP chambers of my 625-2 when used with Shooters Choice solvent. For .38/.357 calibers, I use .40 phosphor bronze brushes and Shooters Choice. It works very well. If the fouling is very severe... I mount the brush in a variable speed drill and run it in and out of the chamber. It works well.
 
Brushes attached to a drill sounds to me like a bad idea. I know brass is softer than steel, but still. I wouldnt want to be reeming out my cylinders.
 
Brushes attached to a drill sounds to me like a bad idea. I know brass is softer than steel, but still. I wouldnt want to be reeming out my cylinders.
How would you test the theory that bronze brushes on a drill would ream a charge hole?
 
Back
Top