How do you get the powder residue off a stainless gun?

Poke

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I have a 625-8 that has a matte finish on it. Shot it today and the end of the barrel, cylinder sides, and cylinder face have residue on them that will not come off. With my polished 686's it wipes right off except for the cylinder face. So far I have tried Hoppes No9, CR10, and CLP. No luck so far.

Haven't had this problem before but I haven't ran as many rounds through it at one time before either.
 
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There's a revolutionary new product that borders on the miraculous, called Elbow Grease, which, when used with any of the solvents you mentioned, and bronze bristle brush, will make that powder residue vanish.


LOL not a chance I am gonna bust out a bronze brush on this thing. Have tried Nylon though without much luck.

Will let it soak in the CLP since I am sure the CR10 will etc it after a bit of contact.
 
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I use a product called Never Dull to clean my stainless revolvers. It's available at most motorcycle shops, marinas and the Wally World auto dept.
 
Scotch Brite scrub pad, in conjunction with your favorite Hoppes #9, will work wonders.
 
Just keep the Hoppe's away from nickel guns or you'll be sorry.
 
I use Iosso GunBrite Polish on my stainless S&W's cylinder faces with a brass toothbrush, bore solvent with a normal toothbrush on the cylinder window opening and around the forcing cone and solvent on a rag on the polished surfaces. Occasionally, the area above the forcing cone requires the brass brush, too.

These 617s are shot a lot and always come clean as new!
DSC_0282.jpg


I found it is a good habit to clean the gun(s) as soon as you get them home. The deposits, especially those on the cylinder face, seem to become harder to remove if left on overnight or longer.

Ed
 
Its coming off with some soaking and a nylon brush. The issue I have with the other brush's is the gun has a matte bead blasted finish and not the high polish finish that most smith's have. Only thing not working right now is the cylinder face.. All the **** just wiped off my 25 pretty much or the blued finish hides it better. I figure its the diff between a polished and matte gun though.

I left the range at 1500 and posted this after 1600. Pretty sure unless I start cleaning at the range I cannot start cleaning any sooner.


500 rounds today from the 2 45's, this one got most of it.
photo304.JPG
 
The finish on your gun appears to be S&W's standard "brushed stainless." My guns might look more polished but don't forget, they've been handled, shot and cleaned for over 30 years.

If the cylinder faces on my 617s are any indicator, you will not hurt your gun's finish on that area if you get aggressive with the cleaning. The only places I do not use a brass brush on any of my S&Ws is on the smoother outer surfaces. There, I use a normal nylon toothbrush if a rag wetted with solvent doesn't do the job.

As a side note, the fouling from some powders is harder to remove. Bullseye, with Unique a close second, leaves a sticky black coating on your gun and hands that if left on the gun overnight, is a bear to remove. Titegroup is dirty but not sticky. I use Clays powder for all my target loads in .38 Special, .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum and .45ACP. Like any powder, it also leaves some fouling but it isn't sticky and cleans off easily.

If you don't handload, you can try different brands of ammo to see if one burns more cleanly than others. I can't help you there as I only use factory loads in my .44s and then only for hunting, so I only fire a round or two every year and that's only if I'm fortunate enough to get a deer within handgun range.

Ed
 
After you get it clean as you want it, I would suggest polishing with Johnsons Paste wax. It is not abraisive and next time you shoot you will need very little elbow grease and CLP to get it back to new looking. The paste wax also helps to reduce fingerprints from handling.
 
There's a revolutionary new product that borders on the miraculous, called Elbow Grease, which, when used with any of the solvents you mentioned, and bronze bristle brush, will make that powder residue vanish.

Obviously an answer by someone with zero experience with a bead blasted finish. Use of a bronze brush will have the finish looking like 30 years of hard use in about 3 minutes of scrubbing with a bronze brush.

The best product that I've found is M-Pro 7. That and a Bounty paper towel will have everything except the face of the cylinder nice an clean with very little effort. For the face of the cylinder on my 625-8 I use a nylon toothbrush with the M-Pro 7. It won't clean the face of the cylinder perfectly but previous experience using lead away cleaning cloths has shown that these cloths have enough abrasives to actually polish the face of the cylinder. As a consequence I leave my cylinder a bit blackened and don't worry about it.

Finally I will note that the finish on the 625 JM is a bit more fragile than I hoped it would be. Which means it's VERY fragile and you really need to handle these models with kid gloves. I'm not sure how it happened but in spite of being pretty careful I've managed to put a big rub above one chamber on the cylinder. Once it gets too beat up I'll probably wet sand it with 2000 grit and give it a high polish.
 
Flitz (tm) will remove carbon and burn marks from stainless without scratching. It also works without harm on a factory blued finish. Apply it with a tooth brush, cloth or even a paper towel, let it work a couple of minutes, and buff it off with a cloth (or paper towel).

Flitz seems to be the product everyone uses to dress up revolvers for photos.

Scotchbrite is abrasive, and will scratch the finish and remove bluing.
 
Simichrome, as I recall it from the days before motorcycles had double-wall pipes, and the Iosso GunBrite Polish I use could be one and the same. Both are pink, turn black as they clean and smell the same.

I apologize for saying that GunBrite and a brass brush won't harm your gun's finish - in your photo, it sure looked like normal brushed stainless to me. But I have to wonder how all my stainless S&Ws still have a dull finish on the cylinder faces, which I have scrubbed very aggressively with those products for many years.
686PPG.jpg


Ed
 
Any mico-abrasive metal polish -- Fliz, Brasso, Mother's Mag, etc. -- small amount on a soft cloth, rub the black away.
 
The two products, I use alternately, are either "Flitz" which has already been mentioned; and the other product is called "Maas" metal polish, and it's available too, at most chain hardware stores.
Apply it to the cylinder-face with a Q-Tip, and then wipe it off with a cleaning patch. Sometimes you have to use a little effort with the Q-Tip to remove the fouling. Once your cylinder faces have been polished in this manner, the burnt powder residue comes-off a lot easier after a new range session. Here's a link for Maas polish. Your cylinder face will sport a mirror finish, which IMO looks a lot better than baked-on powder residue.

MAAS
 
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