How durable is nickle finish?

[Denny347]

My 37-2 is the factory nickle finish and am wondering how durable it is. I have owned blued firearms and know how sensitive they are to the elements. I know that nickle is more sturdy but is it more for show or is it actually good against the corrosion? This will be a daily off-duty carry piece and I don't want to nick it or tear it up if it is not up to the challenge.

 

[Gov]

No worries, mate... nickle is about as tough as it gets, unless you want to pre-rust your gun (parkerize it) or have it in SS.

 

[carson]

My dad's model 10, from at least the 1920s, started looking rough after daily use in the 1970s. If it's a problem after the first 50 years, send it back to S&W and have it replated.

 

[Sportsterguy]

Pretty tough IMO. Just keep the solvents (Hoppes) away from it when cleaning. If you do you solvents make sure you completely dry the gun. Also take the grips off prior to cleaning it.

 

[max]

It will do just fine.

 

[Dan Cash]

Nickel is just like other finishes; it is there until it is gone. Nickel will usually be gone long after the other finishes.
Dan

 

[walkin' trails]

I've seen never seen a S&W factory nickle finish wear very fast. I've seen some original blued guns refinished in nickle that didn't last near as long, but those weren't done at the factory.

 

[Denny347]

Hmmm, I 'll have to remember the tip about Hoppe's. That's my favorite solvent.

 

[Venom6]

My agency sent me to S&W armorer's school in the late 70's, when we all carried revolvers. What they told us was that the nickel was applied over copper; the nickel would not adhere to the steel by itself. We were warned not to use copper solvent (they specifically mentioned Hoppes) as if there are any even minute cracks in the nickel, the solvent would get it and eat the copper underneath, allowing the nickel to flake off. This most commonly started on the cylinder face. I'm no gunsmith (was actually a pretty poor armorer) and don't know nothin' about firearm finishes, I'm just repeating what the factory staff instructors told us.

 

[DFrame]

Hoppe's contains chemicals which can attack the copper coating under the nickel. For that reason all traces of it should be removed promptly after cleaning. Hoppe's is a good cleaning product and shouldn't cause any harm. Just don't let your gun soak in it.

 

[pace40]

Don't abuse it, follow the cleaning advice given, and don't drop it on the sidewalk and it will hold up fine. This one still looks pretty good after 107 years.

 

[Sportsterguy]

Originally posted by pace40:
Don't abuse it, follow the cleaning advice given, and don't drop it on the sidewalk and it will hold up fine. This one still looks pretty good after 107 years.

Pace40,

Is that the original finish on that M&P? Gotta be one of the classiest S&W's I've ever seen. Congrats.

Roger

 

[Denny347]

Originally posted by pace40:
Don't abuse it, follow the cleaning advice given, and don't drop it on the sidewalk and it will hold up fine. This one still looks pretty good after 107 years.

Wow, that is beautiful.

 

[pace40]

Thanks, guys....I have no reason to believe that it is not original. I did not buy it new though

Point is if its taken care of, nickel is about as durable as it gets.

 

[GF]

Here's C 4186XX, about 51 years old and probably an old police revolver.

It has wear on the backstrap and end of the barrel.
I cleaned it up with a little Flitz and it looks better than my blue revolver from the same period.
As was stated, no Hoppes #9 or like solvents and the nickel should outlast you.

 

[flop-shank]

I sometimes carry a 4" nickeled 586 and have for 2 1/2 years. One area of the frame is cloudy from prolonged contact with my skin, but the rest is shiny, beautiful and as tough as woodpecker lips. I use breakfree CLP for cleaning that gun and have no desire to use anything else.

 

[The Highlander]

As has been stated, the Nickel is plated over the top of a copper strike bath. Nickel adheres well to a properly cleaned and prepared surface, and the copper strike is no longer used very much. This is true of older plated pieces in particular. Newer Chrome coatings are also typically a two-layer process, usually with Nickel as the first coat with the Chromium then plated as a top coat.

You do need to avoid any strong acids or any cleaners with ammonia in their formulation. No, exposure once or twice will not ruin your gun, but as one writer stated, eventually, any small perforations in the Nickel will allow the copper to be "eaten" away and a flake of plating will come off. Once it starts, it will only get worse. Better to avoid the problem.