how fragile is the circa 1995 matte blue finish from the PC?

[linde]

A friend recently acquired a 3” Model PC-13 (model 13-4) and needs to clean up some spots on the finish. My initial reaction was to have him soak with Kroil followed with a light touch using bronze wool soaked in Kroil . . . but I hesitate to recommend that not knowing if it will leave scratches in the matte blue (almost looks black) finish used by the Performance Center.

According to the 4th edition of the Standard Catalog of S&W this is a very special revolver:

“Model PC-13 .357: Cal .357 Magnum, production of 400 units from the Performance Center for Lew Horton. “A very serious carry revolver”. Four Magna ports on a 3” barrel, fixed rear sight with ramp front sight, Secret Service boot grips on a K frame, 6-shot, bobbed hammer, double-action only, matte blue finish, with beveled cylinder latch, trigger and charge holes. Shrouded extractor rod, trigger has an overtravel stop, Product Code 170059 and 170063 – 1995”

Unfortunately there was no end label on the blue plastic case so I can’t confirm but believe it is one of the first run (PC 170059) . . . the s/n has an HPC prefix, has the wood Eagle Secret Service grips, and the 4 ports are on the barrel rather than the rib.

Since pictures are not mine to post, here are two excellent threads on this PC-13:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...enter-model-13-pics.html?highlight=model*13-4

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/118959-pc-13-a.html#post1269448 (great pics in posts #12 & #14)

Thanks for any help,

Russ

 

[H Richard]

Russ, I think that is the same surface as I have in a 36-6. It is rather fragile. I carried mine just once on a 3 day Prarie Dog hunt, and it rubbed a small amount of holster wear (in a lined holster), in just those 3 days. I haven't holstered it since. (photo taken before hunt).

 

[ABPOS]

I would say try some CLP soaked on it and a toothbrush first.... I don't think that would hurt the finish. I have a 442 with the matte finish and I only ever used CLP but it never sat long enough to have any issue spots. I guess it just depends on what type of spots it is.

However I did have some slight surface rust on the cylinder and that I just used CLP and a sock. And it came off and didn't really leave any marks. I mean the slight bit of rust did faintly but it was barely visible.

 

[linde]

. . . I did have some slight surface rust on the cylinder and that I just used CLP and a sock. And it came off and didn't really leave any marks. I mean the slight bit of rust did faintly but it was barely visible.

I believe slight surface rust is what he has so we'll give CLP a try . . . appreciate your suggestion.

Russ

 

[Warren Sear]

If you rub a matte surface with bronze wool, you are going to leave a permanent shiny spot.

Toothbrush and CLP. Wipe with cotton cloth. Done.

More damage is done to guns by guys "maintaining" their guns than by actual use.

 

[Warren Sear]

Russ, I think that is the same surface as I have in a 36-6. It is rather fragile. I carried mine just once on a 3 day Prarie Dog hunt, and it rubbed a small amount of holster wear (in a lined holster), in just those 3 days. I haven't holstered it since.

A leather holster lined with leather still has leather rubbing against the metal of the revolver. A lined holster offers no help whatsoever in preventing finish wear.

A good fit and keeping the inside of the holster clean will reduce wear on the finish.