The seller claims that this 686 has "round count around 80-100 .38 specials, 18 magnums exactly".
I think the gun has significantly more rounds through.
My only question is how many does this gun have through?
So what you guys think?
How many rounds??
- Thread starter MDW Guns
- Start date
The seller claims that this 686 has "round count around 80-100 .38 specials, 18 magnums exactly".
I think the gun has significantly more rounds through.
My only question is how many does this gun have through?
So what you guys think?
Register to hide this ad
Dan Cash
Member
No way to tell from photos. Probably has more than stipulated but:
Does gun lock up properly?
Is timing on?
Are ther any obvious defects, e.g bulged barrel or cylinder?
If no problems, go for it if price is right. I have not bought a new gun in 30 years. The used ones are more to my taste.
Does gun lock up properly?
Is timing on?
Are ther any obvious defects, e.g bulged barrel or cylinder?
If no problems, go for it if price is right. I have not bought a new gun in 30 years. The used ones are more to my taste.
I wouldn't care how many .38 in a 686 unless the number is huge.
I've seen a gun shot with one box of 125gr Remington .357 look worse than that picture.
With a used gun, condition is everything, and you need to make the various checks and measurements to insure it is all in spec. I'd be most concerned that someone had tried to "improve" it.
I have one of the first 686s made that still meets all the acceptance specs for a new gun, and there have been many 158gr .357s down the barrel, plus a bushel or two of .38s....
I've seen a gun shot with one box of 125gr Remington .357 look worse than that picture.
With a used gun, condition is everything, and you need to make the various checks and measurements to insure it is all in spec. I'd be most concerned that someone had tried to "improve" it.
I have one of the first 686s made that still meets all the acceptance specs for a new gun, and there have been many 158gr .357s down the barrel, plus a bushel or two of .38s....
Yeah, he claims that the S&W PC worked the trigger over.
The trigger SA pull is less then a pound, the DA pull is about 4.5 pound.
I called S&W and they have no record of this gun ever coming back to them.
A couple other reasons I thing this gun has more through the 120 rounds is the original grip.
It has a lot of wear on it, which on the other side could come form gun play.
Last edited:
Titegroups
Member
I would pass on it. If it really went to S&W for trigger work why would the screw heads be messed up? I would try pushing off the hammer from full cock. He probably ground too much off the notch and is trying to get rid of it, anybody who doesn't own a set of gunsmith screwdrivers doesn't need to be doing their own trigger jobs.
I would pass simply because the seller apparently didn't tell you the truth about having sent the gun back to S&W. Also a less than 1 pound trigger pull is too light IMHO and S&W did not bugger up those screws.
scooter123
Member
I'm no expert, but if the DA trigger pull is really in the range of 4 1/2 lbs, I would expect that he is selling it because of unreliable ignition.
My impression is that once you get below 7 lbs. DA pull you have to add some custom components to the gun to insure reliable ignition with any primer. I also believe that the first custom part that has to be added is a heavier hammer, which should be pretty easy to spot.
Based on the apperance of the recoil shield and comparing it to my 620 and 610, I suspect the actual round count is probably in excess of 1000 rounds downrange. The impression of the caseheads on the recoil shield looks about the same as my 610 and 620, both of which are currently between 1000 and 2000 rounds downrange. So, it's not a "virgin gun" by any means. However, IMO a S&W with only 1000-2000 rounds on it is still a very low mileage revolver barely past the break-in.
If it times well, doesn't exhibit any push-off, and looks good, I would consider it as a potential bargain. Fact is that if the lockwork hasn't been butchered by some hack job, you can put it back to a near factory condition with 15 to 25 dollars worth of springs and a new strain screw. Unfortunately, making sure the lockwork hasn't been hacked up will require pulling the sideplate and an examination of the sear surfaces under magnification. I would make sure that the seller is willing to submit to this type of examination and if he isn't, just pass on the gun or factor in the cost of a new hammer and trigger into your offer.
BTW, I would NOT leave that trigger as it is now, IMO a single action pull of less than a lbs. is an AD just waiting to happen even if it doesn't push off. Sometimes a trigger can be just too light and IMO any sub 1.5 lbs trigger is too light. In addition a light trigger can be a distinct hazard in the hands of an inexperienced shooter.
My impression is that once you get below 7 lbs. DA pull you have to add some custom components to the gun to insure reliable ignition with any primer. I also believe that the first custom part that has to be added is a heavier hammer, which should be pretty easy to spot.
Based on the apperance of the recoil shield and comparing it to my 620 and 610, I suspect the actual round count is probably in excess of 1000 rounds downrange. The impression of the caseheads on the recoil shield looks about the same as my 610 and 620, both of which are currently between 1000 and 2000 rounds downrange. So, it's not a "virgin gun" by any means. However, IMO a S&W with only 1000-2000 rounds on it is still a very low mileage revolver barely past the break-in.
If it times well, doesn't exhibit any push-off, and looks good, I would consider it as a potential bargain. Fact is that if the lockwork hasn't been butchered by some hack job, you can put it back to a near factory condition with 15 to 25 dollars worth of springs and a new strain screw. Unfortunately, making sure the lockwork hasn't been hacked up will require pulling the sideplate and an examination of the sear surfaces under magnification. I would make sure that the seller is willing to submit to this type of examination and if he isn't, just pass on the gun or factor in the cost of a new hammer and trigger into your offer.
BTW, I would NOT leave that trigger as it is now, IMO a single action pull of less than a lbs. is an AD just waiting to happen even if it doesn't push off. Sometimes a trigger can be just too light and IMO any sub 1.5 lbs trigger is too light. In addition a light trigger can be a distinct hazard in the hands of an inexperienced shooter.
stantheman86
US Veteran
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2010
- Messages
- 2,479
- Reaction score
- 531
That kind of flame cutting doesn't happen with that few .38's. I can see the stop slots are starting to peen and there's a flat spot on the bolt.
The price would have to be right, I wouldn't pay more than $350 or so for a used 686 anyway, unless it showed very little use.
The price would have to be right, I wouldn't pay more than $350 or so for a used 686 anyway, unless it showed very little use.
The flame cut topstrap is the dead give away that the gun has seen a bunch of shooting. I can't see the stop slots or the bolt well enough on my screen but the impression of case heads on the recoil shield also denotes quite a bit of shooting with heavy loads. Maybe the seller was telling you how many rounds HE put through the gun(if he bought it used in the first place) but if he has been the only owner he never learned to count. The heavy use wouldn't necessarily kill the sale with me but a flat out lie sure would.
Alk8944
US Veteran
Since I have several .38 Special revolvers which have each had quite a few thousand rounds shot from them and have no noticeable flame cutting there is nothing else to say than BS.
Some of the factory 110 and 125gr. .357 Magnum loads will cut like that within 50 to several hundred rounds, as will any .357 handload using N-110/296. I have a couple of N Frames that have had quite a few full-snort rounds, loaded with 2400, same several thousand, that didn't show any flame cutting until I shot a couple hundred rounds loaded with H-110/296!
Some of the factory 110 and 125gr. .357 Magnum loads will cut like that within 50 to several hundred rounds, as will any .357 handload using N-110/296. I have a couple of N Frames that have had quite a few full-snort rounds, loaded with 2400, same several thousand, that didn't show any flame cutting until I shot a couple hundred rounds loaded with H-110/296!
The Smith factory action job will NOT produce an action that light. I had the Master Action Job on an N frame, and I guarantee you it was not even close being that light. I would fear that a hammer or trigger would need to be replaced. It's hard to wear out a 686, but the other marks indicate more use than what the seller's states. There are a lot of 686's in good shape out there that are reasonably priced.
Similar threads
