How much grease to use??

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Reading the Sig forum now that I own a Sig P6 (as I still haven't found the 3913/908 with my name on it and I want a single stack, 9mm, non-plastic carry weapon, and bought the Sig 'till I find the right one).

There are a number of threads, plus stickies, about the use of grease and what type of grease folks like.

Wondering to what degree S&W 39 and 59 families need to be greased, how much, where, what kind folks here use.

SuperLube Synthetic and MilCom TN25b seem to get a lot of mentions. I didn't see anyone refer to FrogLube.

The rule of thumb seems to be: grease where it slides, oil where it rotates.

My project for next week is to give all my pistols a thorough cleaning....and now I'll want to grease 'em up.

Just wondering what the folks here think would be a good product, how much, etc.
 
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I only use a drop of normal gunoil inside the slide, where the frame "slides" (on the sidewales). Have so in over 30 years in various autos and NEVER had any problems. And these guns have been used in hot spots through out the world.

And I only use these two drops of oil when I have cleaned my weapon, and I don't overclean. So don't worry about it. When first a auto is brokken in (about 500 rounds) you don't need much lubrication.
 
I use Lubriplate gun grease on anything that slides & wears. Think i bought a small can at midway for 10/12 bucks that will last a lifetime. Drop of Gun oil in other spots. Remember too much grease/oil will cause more problems than anything.
 
How much grease? Just enough of a coat you can see a little mark when you run a fingernail through it. Never any clumps or lumps.
I use Brownells action lube on slides, which is expensive compared to axle grease, but the way I use it, a little tub lasts 2 years.
ACTION LUBE PLUS® | Brownells

Added: I guess one advantage of the Brownells Action grease is that it does NOT thicken up like ordinary grease and lubriplate do. I can take a semi auto out of the safe that I cleaned and stored 5 years ago, and the Action Lube is just like I left it, and the gun is ready to shoot. Aside from the color, it is similar to the Tetra I use on expensive double shotguns.
 
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Grease gets gooey & nasty. It can also harden over time. The others are correct, use high quality gun oil. I use a ver small amount of grease I'm my duty AR15 in the bolt lugs & bolt body with oil mixed in too. Why? Because it sits in a very hot police SUV in Arizona. My handguns I never use grease on. Tetra Gun is a good sticky oil that stays in place. Rem Oil is good for the finish of a gun but has a very annoying habit of vaporizing. It's real runny. Breakfree is also good , but I'm biased towards Tetra; it works.
 
Less is better, just a thin film will do. With grease I put a thin film on , work the action then wipe off any visible amount, leaving a very thin film. You don't want to see any globs.
Gary
 
Grease gets gooey & nasty. It can also harden over time. The others are correct, use high quality gun oil. I use a ver small amount of grease I'm my duty AR15 in the bolt lugs & bolt body with oil mixed in too. Why? Because it sits in a very hot police SUV in Arizona. My handguns I never use grease on. Tetra Gun is a good sticky oil that stays in place. Rem Oil is good for the finish of a gun but has a very annoying habit of vaporizing. It's real runny. Breakfree is also good , but I'm biased towards Tetra; it works.

Excatly :)

And grease especially (but also too much oil) attracts dirt, dust, sand etc. like a dogsh.. attracts flys :cool:

My greatest concern in Iraq was sand. The less oil on my M4 and SIG 210, the better it worked.
 
I've been testing grease ever since these threads started popping up on different gun fora and have come to two conclusions:

1. If you do want to use it, remember the old Brylcreem adage - "A little dab'll do ya."

2. I'm not really seeing any significant performance difference (good or bad) compared to the CLP I've been using for a long time.

Of course, as with all things gun related, YMMV. :D
 
How much grease to use??

Just enough to cover the projections and recesses of the surfaces with a nice thin film. No waste and no extra globs anywhere.

I like to use a light full synthetic grease on the rails of (broken in) pistols during most of the year. TW-25B, Lubriplate SFL-0, SuperLube, Mobil 1, Shooter Choice, Tetra, Wilson, Pro Shot....all make great greases that are more than up to the task.

If you decide to use grease, IMO you should clean your pistol after range trips. If you can't do a quick cleaning between sessions.. at least wipe off the rails and reapply some fresh grease.

For tight/low round count pistols and the colder months of the year, I use only oil.
 
...As others have stated, I use a light coat of oil and that's it. I have not bought into the grease idea and have had no performance issues. I am currently using Snake Oil from Dillon Precision; Before that it was CLP. Best.
 
Stating that you use only oil and it has always worked, or you use grease and have had no problems is not helpful unless you state which gun you base your experience on. The slide and frame contact point materials will determine the lubrication methods. For instance, an older West German P series Sig has a carbon steel slide and an aluminum alloy frame. If not properly lubed, guess which one wins. For other semi-autos, the materials will be different, and so will the lube methods and materials.
 
Stating that you use only oil and it has always worked, or you use grease and have had no problems is not helpful unless you state which gun you base your experience on. The slide and frame contact point materials will determine the lubrication methods. For instance, an older West German P series Sig has a carbon steel slide and an aluminum alloy frame. If not properly lubed, guess which one wins. For other semi-autos, the materials will be different, and so will the lube methods and materials.

I base my response on my experience with 1st, 2nd and 3rd generation Smith semi-autos, and Sig Sauer platforms - namely the P-239. I understand that grease is used and recommended by many, particularly in the Sig fold. If that is working for them, great. We all do things a little different. Best.
 
Thanks to all for the advice. I'm going to do some more research on FrogLube, as someone gave me a tub, but will be buying more conventional grease, at least for my Sig. I'll stick with oil for now for my S&W's.
 
I use a white litho grease on my stainless S&W... just a quick smear with one finger followed by a second smear with a clean finger to remove the excess. Blued guns just get gun oil on the slide.... I've used everything from silcone to organic... without noticing much difference- except how well it stays put.

I was shooting heavy loads in my Beretta 92FS... PJ-1 chain lube helped to act as a dampener, it was fun for the day, but nothing i'd reccomend.
 
g-96

decades ago I oiled up a colt gold cup and a remington 700 bolt gun with rem gun oil. 30 years past. Both were glued shut. Gun oil will solidify over time . Cleaned them up and now g-96 is ALL i ever use
 
I've always been an oil man (not the kind that gets royalties). Mostly I use Shooter's Choice FP-10. It is a great oil. I just had a pistolsmith recommend TW-25B. I am now a grease guy. This stuff is really slick. Just a very little goes a long way.
 
I put severe wear on a 3913 using only oil. I then switched to TW23b grease.

I only use TW25b on all my semi auto handguns. Grease substantially reduces wear on aluminum frames. Smoothes function on the steel framed guns too. My 0.02 Regards 18DAI
 
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