How much grease to use??

I've used just about everything and they all worked. Some just need more frequent applications. After all, we're not talking use-once-shoot-for-a-lifetime products.

I've been using Froglube on half my semis, Fireclean on the other half. Functionally wise, no noticeable different. They both work fine. Froglube is really slick, so much so I have trouble keeping my Glock 30 recoil spring in place until I install the slide.

One thing with FL is you need to apply properly and wipe off all excess. Otherwise, any residue will melt when shooting the gun and run off. I dip a Q-tip in it, rub it in, and run it down the frame rails, leaving a barely noticeable film. Powder and grime wipes off easily so clean up is a breeze.

Fireclean is more liquid and stays that way, no "evaporation." Most powder and gunk will wipe off with a rag or paper towel. I wet a patch with it and run it through the bore after brushing it. A dry patch follow up leaves it dry and clean.

Both products recommend NOT using other products with them. For those whose wife is smell sensitive--or even yourself--Froglube gets a brownie point for its minty smell. Both are pricey, but it goes a long way, reducing the costs per use.
 
+1 to dh2683. I've been using the Lubriplate gun formulation on all my semi's for a couple of years now. It works well for me & it was highly recommended to me by armorers & shooters whose opinion I value! I dab it on with a cotton swab & then spread it out into a thin film. No gobs or glops.
 
I use Lubriplate 105. I don't know what the difference between that and the gun formulation is, but it works for me.

It's inexpensive and a tube should last for years.



+1 to dh2683. I've been using the Lubriplate gun formulation on all my semi's for a couple of years now. It works well for me & it was highly recommended to me by armorers & shooters whose opinion I value! I dab it on with a cotton swab & then spread it out into a thin film. No gobs or glops.
 
The directions for my 3rd gen......

The directions for my 3rd gen say to put 4 drops of oil, 2 on the rails, two on the barrel. I do just that and it runs fine. All guns aren't smooth and may need some grease, but I'm not going to use it as long as what the directions say works.
 
If this works for you, it's a good plan. The only potential hitch might be the age of the manual. Some things might have evolved since that was printed. Which is why I always look forward to and read Fastbolt's comments. He has the latest information from the factory on everything 3rd generation.

The directions for my 3rd gen say to put 4 drops of oil, 2 on the rails, two on the barrel. I do just that and it runs fine. All guns aren't smooth and may need some grease, but I'm not going to use it as long as what the directions say works.
 
I'll look at what Fastbolt has to say....

If this works for you, it's a good plan. The only potential hitch might be the age of the manual. Some things might have evolved since that was printed. Which is why I always look forward to and read Fastbolt's comments. He has the latest information from the factory on everything 3rd generation.

Thanks for the pointer and I'll check it out, but if I ever use grease it will be a VERY thin layer. Honestly, I think this gun would run fine dry, except for wear.
 
steel to steel contact only...quality oil will work ok...but steel to alloy contact... I use synthetic grease ......and if it's hard to clean off....you know it's working ;)
 
PS our defence uses Break Free and it works fine


So we should all go with the lowest bidder?:D

Breakfree is one of those things that does several jobs ok, but doesn't do any of them great.

Use cleaning products for cleaning and use lube for lubricating. I have found breakfree to not stay where I put it and even with a couple months storage tends to dry up.
 
So we should all go with the lowest bidder?:D

Breakfree is one of those things that does several jobs ok, but doesn't do any of them great.

Use cleaning products for cleaning and use lube for lubricating. I have found breakfree to not stay where I put it and even with a couple months storage tends to dry up.


Hey its worked in x-Jugoslavia, Kosovo, Iraq and Afghanistan (deployment over 10 years each place) so I would say it has proven its worth :cool:
 
The M16A1 spent ten years in Viet Nam, too. There are (and were) better weapons available.

An endorsement by the military doesn't carry much weight around here. (And I still don't own any plastic weapons.)
 
During my 50 years of shooting I've tried a lot of solvents and oils/grease. I'm back using Hoppe's #9 solvent, a blast of Gun Scrubber or non chlorinated brake cleaner, and lubing with Hoppe's Elite oil. I noticed when using combination cleaner/ lubes to clean ( scrubbing with tooth brush ) and then blasting with nc brake cleaner and then wiping a q-tip along the slide rails, the q-tip would be very dirty. Not when so using Hoppe's #9, q-tip remained clean. And clean up after shooting is always easier for me when lubed with Hoppe's Elite. Just my experience.
 
I agree with nocents. My 3rd gens and SIGS with aluminum frames and steel slides need a little extra slip. TW25B seems to work for me.

Richard
 
I use grease on the slide/frame rails, barrel hood, and bushing end of my guns. I also put a dab on the barrel's frame cuts and the disconnecter ridge.


The gun will tell you how much grease is too much. Excess grease will come out when you work the action. Wipe away excess until no more comes out. I use shooters choice, and it's red colored. If I take the gun apart after shooting, and the grease remnants is still red, it means that I used too much. The grease should change to dark grey from oil and debris. If you see red after a few boxes of ammo, you put grease where it doesn't need to be.


I use oil on rotating parts like trigger hand hammer pins. Nothing exotic. 3-in-1 or even a lightweight mobil 1 is fine. Oil is also good for preventing corrosion on bare metal surfaces, or with thinly applied coatings like springs. Not too much. No drips just a light coating. Remember that oil is viscous and will work its way across a body of metal. Especially as it is fired.


Hurry up and get a 3913! I started with a P6, then moved to a HK P7' and then a Glock 19, and finally now I have settled on the 3913 and it is the best of the bunch to carry and far easier to shoot well than the Sig or the HK. I enjoyed the capacity and light weight of the Glock, but my state has recently enacted a magazine capacity restriction in the wake of the Newtown shooting. So I was kind of forced back into a single stack, but I don't think I'd go back even if I could.
 
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