How often should side plate be removed?

[Mxylplyk]

Hello.

How often should I remove the side plates to inspect, clean and re-lubricate the internals of my S&W revolvers?

Currently have 3 revolvers: 640-1 (pre-lock), 686-6 and 63-4. All working flawlessly. However, lots of reloads have been sent downrange from the two 357's. And the 22 LR is is inherently dirty ammo.

Guns are cleaned regularly including removing the yoke-cylinder assembly when the cylinder "spin" starts to get a bit sluggish. I did a deep clean about 5 years ago, including polishing the rebound slides and lightly lubricating all internal surfaces (grease on sliding parts, oil on the rest).

Thanks in advance for your replies. I tried searching this forum for information on this subject but to no avail.

 

[Old_Cop]

Sounds like you have the situation in hand. Welcome to the forum from NW PA.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

You can remove it as often as you think you might need to.

Since there's no way to see how dirty it is inside without you just have to go by how much you've shot & what ammo was used (some is dirtier than others) as your gauge.

As long as it's removed, & re-installed, properly I don't think there's any golden rule that governs the procedure.

.

 

[alwslate]

I remove side plates on my S&Ws only if I think they need it. Your guns are working flawlessly you say. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[tom2]

You can do it as often as you feel necessary within reason(like not after every range trip!) as long as you do it correctly to avoid damage. If you don't have a gun screwdriver kit you used to be able to get a set of 3 bits for S&W modern revolvers from Brownells. Probably more often you should use them to make sure no screws are working loose versus disassembly. Then you have to tap the gun correctly to have the side plate fall out of it's own accord, no prying it off. And a safe soft surface so it does not fall on a concrete floor and get damaged or something. Some of my guns set in the safe so every few years I open them up just to see if they need fresh lube applied as it migrates or evaporates etc. Never had problems with firing residue getting into the works but the crain and cylinder are a different matter as you noted.

 

[dfariswheel]

Cops used to be issued a revolver and on retiring 20 or 30 years later their guns were in perfect working order, side plates never having been off.
A drop or two of oil down in front of the hammer was all most ever got.

If you want to clean out the action by removing the side plate, have fitted, real gunsmiths screwdrivers that perfectly fit the screws, and don't do it very often, as in several years of steady use.

 

[robertrwalsh]

When our agency used them the armorer (often me) was supposed to detail strip and clean the revolvers at least once per year. These were the range guns which got shot a fair bit (maybe 400 rounds per month of full power lead +P ammo). They were not issued to any one person. They needed it. We were also supposed to detail strip and clean the issued handguns once a year. They seldom needed it but we did it anyway.

 

[raljr1]

My model 19 that I bought in 1977 has never had the side plate off. It works fine. I don't often remove side plates for cleaning unless there is a noticeable issue.

 

[llowry61]

I remove them if there is a problem. I have only had to remove a few and most just had very old grease that had hardened and created a sticky feeling action. Other than that I don't see the need to remove them since you always run the risk of buggering a screw or having them back out as you try to be extra careful when you put the screws back in. Even gunsmith screw drivers can damage a screw if used improperly.

Sounds like the strip and clean you are doing is working fine.

 

[TheTinMan]

I lean toward the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” school of thought. However, do you guys open the side plate when you buy a revolver that’s 30+ years old even if it seems to function OK?

 

[rays44]

The most important rules are:
Never pry the side plate off with a screw driver.
Use correct size and fitted hollow ground screw drivers.
The video that gunblue490 posted on youtube is priceless.
Use gun oil sparingly. Grease and too much oil only attracts crud.

 

[chief38]

On frequently fired revolvers I normally remove side-plate, fully disassemble, clean, insect and lightly lube every few years (2-3). I just last week did that to one of my most fired revolvers (a M15 that gets shot quite often) and it was time! I guess I had let that one go a bit too long (maybe 4-5 years) and I was glad I did it last week as it needed it. On less frequently fired revolvers maybe about once every 7-8 year or so. I suppose the determining factor is how much it gets shot and with what type of ammo.

 

[dogdoc]

Very rarely.

 

[Hair Trigger]

Of the 12 revolvers I own (10 are S&W), the newest one being from 1981, I've only had the side plate off one of them and that was for a function issue. It was the newest manufactured. You can pretty well clean out the works without having to remove the cover, and oil it as well.

 

[rct269]

A few suggestions---------------

Given the need, OR desire, to remove the sideplate-----hold the gun sideplate UP with one hand covering the sideplate-----just covering it, not touching it. Do the tap-tap-tap routine until the plate is loose, and then lift it off------no worries about if or where it's going to fall---'cause it's not going to fall.

Here's what S&W has to say about "Oiling The Mechanism": "This is best accomplished by removing the sideplate." They go on to say, "Only a small amount of lubricant is necessary and this should be a light oil." When you sit and stare at the action, you'll be quick to notice there are only three things that move worth talking about: Trigger/Hammer/Rebound Slide

Both the trigger and hammer rotate about a stud. Put a drop of oil on each stud. Neither one of them slides against a surface with any side load to speak of, so there's no need to squirt a stream of oil on any surface---unless you want to accumulate a layer of crud there. The rebound slide moves fore and aft against a surface on the back side and bottom side. Put a drop of oil at the back side and the bottom side. If you're of the obsessive compulsive type, remove the rebound slide, and put the drop ON the back side and the bottom side. Note the removal/replacement of the rebound slide involves dealing with a STOUT little spring which needs to be controlled---coming out and going back in---a piece of cake if you KNOW what you're doing----and a chore if you don't.

I was of the habit of completely disassembling each and every new addition to my collection, and making everything squeaky clean. They stayed that way because I was a lunatic fringe collector, and seldom if ever fired any of them. If you use them, you must maintain them. S&W's comment there is "If a revolver is used daily, it should be oiled every month." I'm hard pressed to imagine using a revolver daily, so you can extrapolate those words of wisdom to suit your needs.

Ralph Tremaine

And a word of caution: Both the trigger and hammer studs are supported inside and outside (by the frame inside, by the sideplate outside). One is ill advised to cycle the action with the sideplate off. The risk is bending a stud. It seems an unlikely risk on the one hand, but your Risk Manager will tell you the best way to manage risk is to avoid it in the first place----lest you get bit on the butt!

And by the by, if you count on the fingers of just one hand, you'll notice an ENTIRELY adequate amount of lubrication of the action is FOUR DROPS of oil.

Belatedly it seems I should add the caveat that's FOUR DROPS of oil in the right places!

 

[Ameshawki]

I can't remember the last time I had a side plate off. Several of mine, probably the majority have never had the side plate off.

 

[rct269]

I can't remember the last time I had a side plate off. Several of mine, probably the majority have never had the side plate off.

The question becomes, "Are you bragging or complaining?"

Ralph Tremaine

 

[TheTinMan]

I hesitate to amend anything Ralph posts. However, the “if it rotates oil, if it slide grease” guideline suggests a very small amount of light grease under the rebound slide. I also put a *tiny* amount of grease on trigger/sear engagement points in most firearms.

The theory is that oil may migrate, while grease (usually) stays where you put it. And I am suggesting very light grease such as TWB25.

 

[rct269]

I hesitate to amend anything Ralph posts. However, the “if it rotates oil, if it slide grease” guideline suggests a very small amount of light grease under the rebound slide. I also put a *tiny* amount of grease on trigger/sear engagement points in most firearms.

The theory is that oil may migrate, while grease (usually) stays where you put it. And I am suggesting very light grease such as TWB25.

An alternative to the grease TinMan suggests is Wilson Combat's Ultima-Lube II Universal (my choice)---a space age lubricant offering the best of both worlds (oil & grease). It's an oil that pretty much stays where you put it.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Mxylplyk]

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and helpful hints. FWIW, I'm aware of most of the caveats y'all posted: do not pry, proper screwdrivers, etc. Ralph's "word of caution" re the trigger and hammer studs was most appreciated. I don't recall seeing this spelled out in Jerry Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual. It certainly makes sense not to cycle the action with the side plate off! The comments about using a small amount of oil (and grease for the rebound slide) is what I've done in the past so that made me feel good. I've used a makeup brush to spread one or two drops of oil around the internals; it works great. Thanks to all!!!