Side Plates

[rct269]

Any and all folks who may be worrying about boogering screws have probably been using wedge blade screwdrivers---which are pretty much guarandamnteed to booger screws.

Proper screwdrivers don't booger screws. A proper screwdriver is hollow ground, and has a parallel sides blade, rather than a wedge shaped blade. Have a look at Brownells' Magna Tip screwdrivers---they are the best money can buy---and not a whole lot of money---unless you're a tool junkie like me, and have to have the big fancy set.

And speaking of sets, they have the S&W Revolver Combo---the handle, and four bits to fit sideplate, grip, thumb latch, and sight screws----for chump change. And now speaking of pre-war sight screws, any set of Jeweler screwdrivers will work---if you don't mind trying to hold on to them with your fingers. If you'd rather hold on with your whole hand, stop by Lowes, and grab the Kobalt Precision Screwdriver Set---10 different tools for any type of screw made---four of which are for slotted screws, and two of those fit any/all pre-war sight screws. That set is so cheap, you'll think they're junk.They aren't! I've been using them for YEARS---and they're still good to go. (The part number is 0525844-----or at least it was when I got mine-----a looooooooooooong time ago!!)

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside worth noting, the screwdriver blade MUST go ALL the way into the slot. What that means in plain English is don't bother inserting the blade into a dirty slot---and if you haven't cleaned the slot now and then, IT'S DIRTY!! Toothpicks work pretty well, a smaller screwdriver works great!

Another thing I should have noted is the screwdriver blade should fit the slot---both the width and the length----who'd a thought turning a little bitty screw could get so damn complicated! Actually, it becomes second nature once you get used to it.

 

[CajunBass]

The first revolver I ever owned was a Model 19. I got the bright idea to "pull" the sideplate just to see what was inside. Heck, I took apart my bass fishing casting reels all the time. How hard could it be?

Well it wasn't hard. It was pretty darn easy to remove the screws using the sight adjustment tool that came in the box. At the time it was just a screwdriver. Wasn't that what screwdrivers are for? Then I used the SAT to pry up the sideplate, and promply broke a chip out of the frame.

Hey...maybe I should read some instructions next time.

Now I have taken a sideplate off a few times since then, using the "tap, tap, tap methoid. It works, but once I proved that to myself I saw no reason to do it again. If a blast of gunscrubber and a few drops of oil here and there doesn't get/keep it going (It always has) I'll look for professional help. For the gun that is.

 

[Jaco1234]

I have reblued 2:side plates. On polishing them, I noticed that they are of a softer material than the frame. This leads me to believe the theory that the side plates are pressed into place at the factory.

 

[Hair Trigger]

I've always felt that the way the side plate is so tightly fitted to the frame that it wasn't meant to be routinely removed. The screws just keep it from vibrating loose from firing the gun; if it were intended to be easily removed for servicing or just looking around, it would pretty much fall out on its own once the screws were removed.

 

[Grayfox]

I only remove the side plate if there is a reason to. Mechanical problems or maybe if the action feels really slow or gummy.
If I purchase a very old gun, I might take the side plate off once just for a good scrubbing and a look see, but that's it.
I have a gun from the 1920s that feel really sluggish. Opened it up and found a lot of old grease that had dried up and hardened. That one needed a good cleaning. So yeah, about once every hundred years is good.

 

[DARE]

Here is the Triple Lock after I cleaned as much as I could without tools or disassembly. Looked a lot worse when I took the side plate off. Should have gotten a photo when I opened it up.