How to Fix Outdoor Spigot Leak

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I have an outdoor water spigot used to water outdoors. Shrubs, plants, trees, etc. Don’t leave a handle on it so as to deny access to outsiders when not in use, and does not leak when turned off. Use a removable handle. When turned on, tho, it leaks like crazy.



If I use it with the handle on, it sprays back to the house and I worry about water leaking into the basement storage area.



If I take the handle off, it sprays away from the house, but the volume is excessive.

It’s an issue because I want to use a soaker hose for some birch trees, and want to leave the water on for a long time, say five six hours at a time.

So, what’s the fix?
 
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It looks like the packing is shot and the valve either has to be repacked or replaced.
The packing under the packing nut is gone or badly worn.

valves-drawing-valve-body-4.gif
 
Thanks, loknload. So if I turn it off, hard, with my removable handle, and then unscrew the part circled:



... inside I should find some sort of rubber washer material which I can replace?

Do I need to find the water shut off valve for the pipe that feeds the spigot, or will shutting it off with my handle be sufficient?
 
Yes - probably a rubber washer on stem needs replacing.
Another Yes, turn off a valve which feeds this tap.
Could be valve at meter, at entry point where main line enters into house,
Or on main line in well house or other locale for you boys with Wells.
 
I need to do the same thing on three outside faucets. I'm super lazy when it comes to plumbing, so I usually just buy a complete faucet assembly and not bother troubleshooting leaks.


This is what I would recommend if you can't simply tighten it to stop the leaking. Put a pipe wrench on the whole assembly and take it out and screw in a new one for 25 bucks or so and it should be problem free for another 20 years.
 
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If your "removable handle" is original, it should say the brand of manufacture. Call around to the plumbing suppliers (NOT HOME CENTERS!) and ask if they carry that brand. When you find one that stocks that brand, shut of water supply to the outside faucet, often called a "Frost Cock". After relieving the water pressure pull the entire stem. That usually takes two wrenches so you don't twist of the pipes and cause a real big leak. Take the stem assembly to that supplier; they will have an entire unit to strip for parts OR a whole new stem assembly OR the small parts you need to rebuild the stem. It always helps to know the age of the plumbing, The toilet lid has a date embossed on the inside, If the toilet hasn't been replaced, you have a date within 3 month of your house's build date! The odds are, all the other outside faucets are the same brand and will soon need the exact same parts! So save a trip and buy a set for each. (every time we bought a rental home or new apartment complex, I had to figure out where to buy the parts, the date always helps!)

Ivan
 
I just fixed one that was leaking, not quite that bad,,but leaking just that same.
It was the packing inside.

This one used the 'string' type packing matrl. You can get it at most any Home Depot type store. They sell a nylon, a foam and then the orig type is bit softer more compressable matrl. I think this latter type is graphite impregnated. That's what I used.

You push the string of matrl into the depression cut out for it (after removing the old stuff and cleaning the cut out) inside that bonnet.
It just sits in there. It can't fall out as when you screw the bonnet back down the string is compressed and seals the gap betw the valve shaft and bonnet.

While you're at it and have the bonnet off..on the end of it will be the rubber washer that seals the faucet shut when the water is turned off.
It's usually attached into a cupped seat with a simple screw threw it's center.
Replace that washer as long as you have it apart and you have rebuilt the faucet about as much as you can short of recutting a worn valve seat. This last task requires a special reamer.
At todays prices it's cheaper to probably just buy a new faucet head if the valve seat is that worn and needs refacing. You usually don't see that except in areas where there is lots of debris/sand in the water supply.

Take the removed bonnet with valve & washer attached with you to the store. You or the 16y/o there can get the right size washer and dia packing string that way. The washers vary in size from mfg to mfg.
The stuff is very inexpensive to replace.
 
I could not live with a plumbing leak - I'd just replace the valve as they are easy to do and certainly cheap enough.
 
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