How to get my Shield reset feel into my FS???

[TahoeDust]

I have a Shield and FS both in 9mm. They both have the Apex DCAEK kit in them minus the trigger return spring. They both feel fantastic on the trigger pull. The only difference is the reset on the Shield is so much nicer than on the FS. The shield has an audible and tactile reset and the FS is BARELY noticeable. Now I know that Apex makes a Reset Assist Mechanism (RAM) for my FS, however it will not work with mine because it has a Safety which I am not willing to remove. I have read that SW updated the newer FS M&Ps to have a more tactile reset. Is this true? What part is it that they changed? Can I get this updated part?

I can live with it as it is, but it would be nice to have them both feel the same.

Thanks.

 

[AR-Getsome]

During my course of fire at IDPA matches, I don't hear or feel the reset. I'm sure during a L&D situation. You won't hear or feel the reset. I find that even during static fire at my local range. I use my " muscle memory" to know where the" reset" is. My fs9 has the ram and apex carry kit. I have yet to install the same kit into my shield. I'm going to shoot a couple of hundred more rounds first. By no means am I an expert. Just sharing want I picked up over the years of shooting.
Now,as far as the new trigger. There are a few things changed for the M&P line besides the better trigger. I don't have the newest M&P fs to compare,just the shield for this year. The shield trigger is a design of its own from what I read here in the forum.

 

[Danno_man]

Bend the trigger bar a little. Enough to put more inward pressure for reset, but not too much where the trigger bar will drag on the slide stop.



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[Danno_man]

Here's a video of my FS w/safety setup with DCAEK, AEK trigger and the above trigger bar bend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k87qZswFtLs

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[Danno_man]

And lastly, a reply from Randy when I got my first M&P, back in 2010.

I spoke to Dave Olhasso(Team S&W) today. He increases the bow of the trigger to yield a more positive reset feel without having to use a stronger trigger return spring. In fact, he mentioned that he uses a Wolff Glock Trigger spring as well on his match guns.

I have heard from some of our customers that they have bent the trigger bar at the mid point of the bar. Apparently this causes the bar to have greater pressure against the inner surface of the frame when the bar is in disconnect mode. This then causes the trigger bar to be snapped inward under the sear cam as you release the trigger.

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[TahoeDust]

That is great information Danno. Thanks. I will give that a try.

 

[bobermo]

To answer your original question, S&W updated the slide stop lever.

M&P Production Updates: Slide Stops | Modern Service Weapons

 

[SmurfHunter]

I already have the apex kit installed in my shield. Trigger bar is my next mod

 

[shawn mccarver]

Larry Vickers and Ken Hackathorn both described "shooting to reset" as one of the worst "training scars" that they see regularly during a recent episode of Vickers' TV program. The idea is to get back on the trigger by the time you come down from recoil. Since that is easily accomplished by letting the finger go all the way forward at speed, there is just no reason for it, and it can instill the very bad habit of "short stroking" the trigger if you do it during high speed shooting of a revolver.

 

[Rastoff]

"Shooting to reset" is a misnomer. Using the reset on a gun is not so that you will shoot to it or that you will feel it under stress. It is simply a tool to use when training. It teaches proper trigger control.

The idea is to reduce the natural tendency to slap at the trigger.

Also, trapping the trigger back after each shot is something that tends to go by the wayside when trying to shoot 6 times as fast as you can. Still, it's a good teaching tool to improve trigger control.

 

[robkarrob]

I have a Shield and the following photos show how S&W made the Shield trigger bar produce the louder and tactile reset. The arrow points to a "dimple/bump" punched into the trigger bar. This dimple rides against the side of the frame and along with the trigger spring, forces the back of the trigger bar towards the sear. This pressure causes the louder click and tactile reset feel, as the sear loop snaps back under the sear at reset. You can see the trigger bar is straight, not bent. As the OP asked and was answered, by bending the trigger bar, the object is to cause the trigger bar to exert extra pressure towards the side of the sear.

Bob






The dimple sticks out further than the photo shows.

 

[George9]

I have a Shield and the following photos show how S&W made the Shield trigger bar produce the louder and tactile reset. The arrow points to a "dimple/bump" punched into the trigger bar. This dimple rides against the side of the frame and along with the trigger spring, forces the back of the trigger bar towards the sear. This pressure causes the louder click and tactile reset feel, as the sear loop snaps back under the sear at reset. You can see the trigger bar is straight, not bent. As the OP asked and was answered, by bending the trigger bar, the object is to cause the trigger bar to exert extra pressure towards the side of the sear.

Bob






The dimple sticks out further than the photo shows.

On the top photo the loop on the trigger bar shown in this photo I see that loop is open a bit on the bottom. I have seen lots of trigger bars with this loop closed all the way as is on my FS M&P .45. Is there anything to be gained by tuning this loop a little more one way ot the other "Open or closed"? How will it effect trigger or trigger feel? George

 

[Rastoff]

Tuning that loop will help reduce the slack or pre-travel of the trigger. However, open it too much and the trigger won't work properly. Adjust it with caution.

 

[robkarrob]

Also changing the sear loop angle will change the speed that the sear moves. Closing the loop (bending it down) would cause the front of the sear to raise up faster, with the same amount of trigger movement (sear releases faster with less sear length of pull). This also causes the trigger pull pressure to increase and as Rastoff stated, would also move the trigger break point a little further rearward. Opening the sear loop (raising it higher) does the opposite, slows the sear movement, reduces the pull pressure, and moves the break point a little forward. You can't go to extremes with the movement either way. Closed steeply may not allow the sear to move or move abruptly, not smoothly. Opened too much and the loop may not go under the sear and get stopped at the sear, so no sear movement and no striker release.

As Rastoff said you can play with it a littler, and try to tune it to you liking. The photo shows a middle of the ground point. That is a stock Shield bar, which has never been installed or modified.

Bob