How to get these marks off my cylinder?
- Thread starter Ghost Magnum
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MetalMan
Member
Google on lead removal cloths....
Birchwood-Casey and others....
Just don’t use on blued revolvers!
Birchwood-Casey and others....
Just don’t use on blued revolvers!
smoothshooter
Member
Copper or brass brush.
Maybe use some Hoppe's #9 as well.
I wouldn't worry too much about it if the gun were mine.
Maybe use some Hoppe's #9 as well.
I wouldn't worry too much about it if the gun were mine.
9mmsubgun-m11
Member
If that is a frosted/bead blasted finish Do Not use a lead away cloth as it will polish the finish. Remember as soon as you shoot again the marks will return. On the cylinder flutes an old rag with a little Break Free CLP will wipe it off with a little effort.
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75Vette
Member
A good gun cleaner (I use Ballistol) and a brass brush will knock off most of it but don't sweat the cylinder face too much...you'll just dirty it up again.
OP
Ghost Magnum
Member
It won't hurt my guns finish?
I'm not to worried about the scorched marks. But I do want to know how to get rid of them
I use Hoppe's #9 and a brass brush wheel in my battery operated dremmel. Works like a charm but don't use on blued revolver.
howiema
Member
Mothers Mag Polish works for me. It is not going to polish that satin finish.
Pete
Pete
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OttoLoader
Member
The new formula product Flitz "eco friendly" non toxic will work on stainless. I bought some because it was non toxic reduce fumes breating hazard. It works right away no elbow grease and not abrasive as the flitz in the tube.
I would not use it on a blued gun only stainless.
Inside cylinder forcing cone area and barrel to remove buildup.
Cosmetic burn on cyclinder I do not bother with.
I would not use it on a blued gun only stainless.
Inside cylinder forcing cone area and barrel to remove buildup.
Cosmetic burn on cyclinder I do not bother with.
shouldazagged
Absent Comrade
No, it won't harm your gun's finish, if you're thinking if terms of corrosion eating into the metal.
Works great for me too
mauiblue
Member
Flitz polish is the best. A little dab will do it. You can don't even need to rub hard. Use a soft cloth.
Sent from my coconut frond hut using Tapatalk
Sent from my coconut frond hut using Tapatalk
The cloth works very well for me.
I use Never-Dull, ever so gently, on the unflutted cylinder of my 627 UDR when experiencing the same spots. You can find it in the automotive section of most stores. I called S&W CS and they are sending a longer front sight screw that will be flush with the top strap which I think is causing those spots.
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cmj8591
Member
Lately I’ve been using Mpro7 gun cleaner with a bronze tooth brush and some light elbow grease. I follow it up with a wipe down with their CLP. The lead removal cloths work too but the Mpro7 seems to require a bit less rubbing.
OP
Ghost Magnum
Member
Thanks everyone. The spots don't bother me to much. I had other revolvers that had similar spots. But they simply rubbed off, as well as the marks on the cylinder face.
The marks don't show in my 586 for obvious reasons.
The marks don't show in my 586 for obvious reasons.
Bowyer
Member
For stainless only
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
The marks on the side of the cylinder come from hot gasses swirling around the screw hole in the top strap for the sight assembly on your revolver. The factory screw is not long enough to be flush with the inside of the top strap. The solution is to call S&W and ask for a longer screw! They will send one to you for free.
I went to my local hardware store and bought a screw while waiting for the S&W screw to arrive, and although it sticks up a bit more than the S&W one, I've kept it on my 686.
The first picture shows the cylinder "window" and the bottom of the replacement screw, indicated by the red arrow. The key thing is that the screw is filed down before installing it so that it is exactly flush with the inside of the top strap. This eliminates the small pocket of the screw hole that creates the marks on the sides of the cylinder.
The second picture shows the top strap and sight assembly with my ad hoc replacement screw, which I've gotten used to now. (I am keeping the one S&W sent me for my next revolver).
The third picture just shows my 686-6.
I went to my local hardware store and bought a screw while waiting for the S&W screw to arrive, and although it sticks up a bit more than the S&W one, I've kept it on my 686.
The first picture shows the cylinder "window" and the bottom of the replacement screw, indicated by the red arrow. The key thing is that the screw is filed down before installing it so that it is exactly flush with the inside of the top strap. This eliminates the small pocket of the screw hole that creates the marks on the sides of the cylinder.
The second picture shows the top strap and sight assembly with my ad hoc replacement screw, which I've gotten used to now. (I am keeping the one S&W sent me for my next revolver).
The third picture just shows my 686-6.
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I use Flitz and a soft cloth.
Don't do it every time. It's not necessary for operation, and the rings will return the next time you go shooting. Polishing the cylinder face is something you do for show or sale.
Don't do it every time. It's not necessary for operation, and the rings will return the next time you go shooting. Polishing the cylinder face is something you do for show or sale.
