How to lower a nickel front sight?

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I have a Triple Lock that I've owned for a number of years. It's a gun that was originally blue with a 6-1/2" barrel, and has had its barrel shortened to 4" and been nickel plated (not by S&W). I finally got around to shooting it and it shoots way low, like 8 inches low at fifty feet.

I figure since it's already been messed with that I won't lessen its value any if I file down the front sight so that it shoots to point of aim, but I don't know how to do that with a nickel gun. Any suggestions? Is there any way to "touch up" nickel?


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Yes. Regulate the front sight, polish it and get a nickeling kit from Brownells or another source and touch it up.

You can even sand blast the area where you filed the top edge by taping all around it. And that will give you a non-glare, satin nickel finish when you touch it up with the kit: much easier to see the sight especially in sunlight.
 
Trade the nickle for 5 pennies, then you can reduce the height in 1/5 increments...:rolleyes:

OR - you could do as suggested above and use electroless nickel for the refinish.
 
Well
That is a very neat S&W piece you own.
I'd love to own one like it too.
Really like the 4 inch Triple Locks.
Best Randy..
 
Just aim 8" high.

All jokes aside, that is a very nice gun, once you get the sight corrected.

I would have liked the 6 1/2" better, but that's probably because I've always been a bit peculiar.
 
Yes. Regulate the front sight, polish it and get a nickeling kit from Brownells or another source and touch it up.

You can even sand blast the area where you filed the top edge by taping all around it. And that will give you a non-glare, satin nickel finish when you touch it up with the kit: much easier to see the sight especially in sunlight.


Thanks Jim. I didn't realize there are nickeling kits available. It doesn't appear that Brownells has any but Amazon does. Rather than spending $60 on something l'm likely to screw up (and probably use only once) I may see if my local gunsmith shop can do it. Or I may just aim 8" high. :)
 
You don't need to re-Nickel the front sight after you file it. I'll tell you a secret I've been using for many years.

After filing and making sure the height is right WITH the loads you intend on shooting the most, use a Dremel with a flannel wheel and some Flitz. High polish the raw steel and it will look just like nickel in a minute or two. DO NOT run the Dremel too fast as you do not want to over heat the good Nickel. After you finish you won;t be able to tell where the Nickel ends and the raw steel begins. Take you time, go slow and it will be so smooth and polished that even though the the top will be raw steel it should not rust.

Make SURE you use Flitz - it works much better than any other of the other polishes I've tried for guns.

EDIT NOTE: Sorry - I meant Felt - not Flannel.
 
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If you opt to polish the bare metal, be sure to keep it oiled or waxed to prevent rust.

While that is certainly not a bad idea, because of the super smooth polish the Flitz will leave and lack of porosity in the metal afterwards, I have never had any rust at all in a part or area that has been polished like this. No special oiling or waxing is really required. Again, not a bad idea - but not really required according to my experience with this process. :)
 
chief38,

That's so true and something many don't even realize. I have polished out blue steel grip frames, main frames, and hammer sides which have never had rust issues!

Top gun grip frame and hammer shown here:

xlarge.jpg



And here's a polished out main frame:

large.jpg
 
chief38,

That's so true and something many don't even realize. I have polished out blue steel grip frames, main frames, and hammer sides which have never had rust issues!

Top gun grip frame and hammer shown here:

xlarge.jpg



And here's a polished out main frame:

large.jpg

Yes - the main reason carbon steel rusts is when it is left porous or not finely finished. What we have both done is to so finely polish the metal that there are virtually no spot left for moisture to gather and rust.

I have a bunch of Colt Revolvers with Carbon Steel Hammers that were highly polished raw steel (from the Factory) and I've never had any rust issues.

Occasionally when I can not find a Nickel screw or part for vintage Nickeled Revolvers, I will use a blued part, strip off the bluing and high polish to simulate the Nickel. The part appears to be factory correct and rust has never been an issue.
 
I appreciate this thread for bringing up the
wondersight option. Because of this thread
I went to the big (E)auction site. I found there
the guy that still sells these sights. Apparantly
he does well w them by a note I sent him. So ,
I oredered one this AM. Will have it next week.
So, thanks for mentioning the fixed option I will
use on my like new 50s fixed 38/44 4 inch.
Best Randy..
 
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I have four Wonder Sights. On two triple locks and on a 2nd & 3rd models. Work great! Look kinda cool too.
 
Well
Im jealous of the OPs terrific piece and you members with your TLs too.
I will have to have luck intervene on my finding an affordable presentable Triple Lock one day!
This was a productive thread!
My Best
Randy..
 
Brilliant! That's probably the best avenue suggested yet. I have a Wonder Sight, but it's "somewhere". Probably would be better off just ordering a new one than going through the aggravation of trying to find the one I have.

Well I did order a Wonder Sight and put it on my gun. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-ha...0-triple-lock-wonder-sight.html#post140923917

Since I knew it shot low and left, my aim point was the upper right diamond using the fixed sights as is. The bottom group is the result. After installing and adjusting the Wonder Sight I shot the top group, still using the upper right diamond as the same aim point. Much better!

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