How to perform a correct action job...

[RightWinger]

Ok, I have been replacing springs on my revolvers for years, and even have gotten brave enough to stone few parts, but honestly do not have a good understanding of the parts that need to be slicked up and would be grateful for some input or even a link to a site that goes in depth into showing me how. Larry Potter from Midway has a youtube video but it is the equivalent as to a brain surgeon showing you how to perform surgery in 15 seconds....a complete waste of time. I'm never suprised at how many knowledgable members this place has and I'm appreciative to be able to tap ya'll for information occassionally!

Eric

 

[RightWinger]

Ok, I have been replacing springs on my revolvers for years, and even have gotten brave enough to stone few parts, but honestly do not have a good understanding of the parts that need to be slicked up and would be grateful for some input or even a link to a site that goes in depth into showing me how. Larry Potter from Midway has a youtube video but it is the equivalent as to a brain surgeon showing you how to perform surgery in 15 seconds....a complete waste of time. I'm never suprised at how many knowledgable members this place has and I'm appreciative to be able to tap ya'll for information occassionally!

Eric

 

[john traveler]

As far as stoning action parts in the S&W, there are only a couple places where it is recommended: the sides of the rebound slide, the edges of the hammer block, and the inside of the frame where any burrs are found that snag on sliding surfaces.

Stoning should not be done on the hammer sear or the trigger nose. Do a search here for previously documented procedure on touching up a trigger nose. Done carefully, it will restore a push-off worn action. Done carelessly, and you are up for a hammer and trigger replacement. The difference is just a few strokes with a stone.

 

[socal s&w]

I have watched the Jerry Miculek video and it is fairly in-depth. He goes through the procedure with a lot of closeups and explanations. It's worth the $20 or so that it cost. IMO.

 

[Duke426]

Originally posted by socal s&w:
I have watched the Jerry Miculek video and it is fairly in-depth. He goes through the procedure with a lot of closeups and expanations. It's worth the $20 or so that it cost. IMO.

+1 for the Miculek video. It is the single most informative video I have ever seen on any firearm. Period.

Jerry takes you through the process, start to finish, on a Model 10. He explains everything he is doing and why he does it. He also tells you what NOT to touch and why.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by john traveler:
As far as stoning action parts in the S&W, there are only a couple places where it is recommended: the sides of the rebound slide, the edges of the hammer block, and the inside of the frame where any burrs are found that snag on sliding surfaces.

Follow the above listed advice and you won't screw up your gun.

I would add: about 90% of the "smoothness gain" from and action job comes from smoothing the two (lower and left) surfaces of the RB slide and the two frame surfaces they ride against. The most important is the lower frame surface, get that mirror smooth and you will be amazed at what it does for the DA pull.

If you don't have stones, you can cut the end square on a popsicle stick and wrap a strip of #600 paper around the end and use it to polish the frame. Keep it square and level and just get it smooth.