They'll be 'in the white' when you get done. No case colors or anything. Maybe a little grey in color depending on what you use.
Naval Jelly Rust Remover works good too. I use it all the time to de-blue parts. It has phosphoric acid in it to do the job,,same as PesiCola which is why it'll work too though very slowly.
I also use a very dilute mix of hydrochloric acid in the form of Muriadic Acid (Pool Cleaner stuff) in water.
Room temp,,maybe a tablespoon to a quart of water. Parts come out grey but can be quickly burnished up bright with steel wool. Hot blueing comes off in a few minutes. Rust blue takes a little longer but should be able to be wiped off in 15 minutes or so.
No it won't pit anything. I put pistol bbls right into the stuff to strip them w/o damage. Just don't leave them overnite!
...Or over a weekend like a certain expert I know did with an annealed LC Smith Crown Grade to remove the heat scale.
With any of these including the vinegar,,neutralize it afterwards with at least a good scrubbing in hot soapy water and a brush. Then flush with hot water and wd40,,then oil with good stuff.
I've never had any rust problems doing it this way in 40yrs. Sometimes the in the white parts set around for weeks before working on them.
You don't want acid residue (which is what's doing the work in every one of these) to grow rust out from small crevises and pin holes after it's back together and you haven't looked at it again for a week.
