How to remove

ones

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Those darn dark circles on a stainless revolver? Haven't had much luck so far.
 
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A miracle cloth does about as well as you can get. There are three different grit quick release buffing wheels for Dremel tools that do a good job, use the finest grit, but you have to be careful. If it is really bad, I take the cylinder off for better access. To be a "stainless" weapon, it sure gets plenty dirty, plenty fast.
DLB
 
I never clean them completely gone, just wipe down. Learned early on that was a waste of effort and pure aesthetic as they return upon your next range visit.
 
As dlbx2 stated-the lead re moving cloths from Birchwood Casey do a fantastic job. Just some elbow grease and the cloth clean them right up. But don't use these cloths on blued guns-it will remove the blueing.
 
I never clean them completely gone, just wipe down. Learned early on that was a waste of effort and pure aesthetic as they return upon your next range visit.

Agreed. I have taken to dabbing on a little solvent at the range as soon as I am done with a gun, then shoot something else. That makes it a bit easier when you get home. I only try to get the powder burns super clean if the gun is getting put away for awhile.
 
They are a badge of honor to the handgun being fired. I clean off the carbon, but don't worry one bit about the doughnuts. It not only saves me time, it also reduces wear on the cylinder face. And I tend to be meticulous about gun cleaning.
 
I've had good luck using Flitz polish to remove carbon rings, when I'm inclined to do so (which is far less often than it used to be!)

I've also used "lead-away" cloths with success.

Both seem to work equally well.


Lou
 
Is the OP talking about residue on the cylinder face, or the discolored dots on the left side of the frame where the trigger, hammer, cylinder stop, & rebound slide studs are attached? If he's talking about those, and I think he is, forget it. They're there to stay.
 
I have found that once you get the front of the cylinder face completely spotless, it can be maintained that way fairly easily by following these tips:
I put a light coat of Corrosion X oil on the front of the cylinder before firing. It seems to keep the carbon from hardening, and if you wipe the front of the cylinder off with a little solvent and a patch as soon as you can after firing about 95% comes off without scrubbing or resorting to Flitz or other polishes or a Lead Away cloth. Then, I prop the gun upright and dab some good ol' Hoppes No. 9 on any remaining spots with a cotton swab and let it sit overnight. The solvent, if given some time to work, will dissolve almost all remaining carbon and it will wipe off with a patch. The last few stubborn traces get a touch of Flitz on a cotton swab and I'm done. The effort is really pretty minimal regarding the amount of elbow grease involved, I rarely even need to scrub with a nylon toothbrush.
 
what Walter and Lou said above, we too just use a bit of Flitz or Semichrome, on an older , used piece of 3M Scotchbrite pad, and just wipe around in a circle, comes off very easy and yes, the Lead Away cloths work too, but take more "rubbing"??? do this on stainless steel guns,,,, as for the blued versions, do NOT rub hard with anything or you will burnish off (remove) the bluing.........
 
Maybe I missed something somewhere but one of the great joys I have after shooting is the time ai get to spend cleaning my guns. I really do not have any problem spending hours cleaning them. After a career in the Marine Corps I have found some of my best thinking time comes while cleaning...
 
Maybe I missed something somewhere but one of the great joys I have after shooting is the time ai get to spend cleaning my guns. I really do not have any problem spending hours cleaning them. After a career in the Marine Corps I have found some of my best thinking time comes while cleaning...

well said, "cleanliness, next to Godliness" and gives one time to spend and chat with the youngster, like the grandkids........hope they learn SOMETHING.
 
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