I am glad I didn't become a Gunsmith

[pharmer]

Yesterday I took my favorite rifle, a Zastava "Mini MkX" .223 rifle to the range. I bought it in 1989 as an RSR closeout for about $200. It has alway had difficulty setting off hard primers but this time light strikes on Federal ammo. This morning I tried to get parts/ gunsmith help. Even called Interarms in Texas and nobody has anything. One site has a complete bolt w/o extractor for $125. Non-solution, I'm not going a buck and a quarter for a part I might never use. I've tried to get the bolt apart before (owners paper has one paragraph) and this time was successful. Only took an hour. Cleaned inside with 2 different "gun scrubbers" and used one of the long "ColoGuard" blue brushes to get 35 years of gunk out. 4 drops of 5-30 MobilOne and another hour getting it back together. Another half-day 10 minute job. The striker snaps hard now, no way to know about FP protrusion without a cartridge and the neighbors/HOA might frown, more than usual. I need a nap. Joe

 

[glenwolde]

...... and used one of the long "ColoGuard" blue brushes .....

WHOA!!! I'm afraid to ask why ColoGuard (never used one) comes with a brush...

Ouch

 

[46er]

WHOA!!! I'm afraid to ask why ColoGuard (never used one) comes with a brush...

Ouch

Like he said, he needs a nap.

 

[Patrick L]

Seriously, an hour to disassemble a Mauser bolt?? I think your title says it all...

 

[Sevens]

While I freely admit that I am also not a gunsmith, were that me I would use -ZERO- lubricant inside the bolt in/around the striker and spring.

Lubricant here attracts filth and powder residue... of which you'll get lots. This will exacerbate the problem.

 

[pharmer]

While I freely admit that I am also not a gunsmith, were that me I would use -ZERO- lubricant inside the bolt in/around the striker and spring.

Lubricant here attracts filth and powder residue... of which you'll get lots. This will exacerbate the problem.

Believe me, I put a film to compensate for my hands which were sweating out in the garage. There are some contact surfaces outside the firing pin channel That need to slide freely. Yeah, next time I know exactly what to do and maybe get it down to an hour. It ate up time looking for a piece of wire that is "no more than 2.5 mm" to lock the bolt head. Joe

 

[pharmer]

WHOA!!! I'm afraid to ask why ColoGuard (never used one) comes with a brush...Ouch

Obviously you haven't read the directions. And no, it wasn't previously used. Joe

 

[Sam McCord]

I'm glad you were able to get it sorted. I have two of those fantastic little rifles, one in 223 Rem and one in 7.62x39. BOTH of which broke magazine follower springs. I looked for years and finally was successful by contacting Zastava USA. Google their name and the website comes up. They were very helpful and they have parts for these rifles.

 

[alwslate]

I'm assuming the Zastava Mini Mauser action is not a traditional 98 design. The original 98 Mauser bolt can be disassembled in a few seconds.

 

[2152hq]

Take the bolt out. Uncock the striker and look at the FP protrusion.
Recock the bolt to allow the assembly to be placed back in the rifle.

If the mainspring is too heavy to allow you to do that by 'hand' (one hand holding onto the bolt body while the other hand holds the shroud,,and you twist the two components to run the strike back to the cocked position)..
Then place the squared 'sear' of the striker (bottom) in the top, flat edges of a bench vise securely with the bolt body & handle clear of the side of the vise.
Then simply lift the bolt handle and the striker will be cocked for you.

FP protrusion should be about .030 to .040.
I usually set it at .030/.035
You will get reliable firing with .025 though.

Different sources will give different specs. Some out to .050

Make sure the bolt is closing fully and is not blocked from doing by the stock wood so when the handle is full down.

If the wood at the edge of where the bolt handle seats when it's supposed to be fully closed is high, that will keep the bolt itself from fully closing.

 

[pharmer]

I'm assuming the Zastava Mini Mauser action is not a traditional 98 design. The original 98 Mauser bolt can be disassembled in a few seconds.

I believe it is just a scaled down 98 action. I just had fumble fingers pushing the detent while lining up the slot, turning the bolt cover at the same time. Another learning experience. Joe

 

[pharmer]

FP protrusion should be about .030 to .040.
I usually set it at .030/.035
You will get reliable firing with .025 though. Different sources will give different specs. Some out to .050
Make sure the bolt is closing fully and is not blocked from doing by the stock wood so when the handle is full down. If the wood at the edge of where the bolt handle seats when it's supposed to be fully closed is high, that will keep the bolt itself from fully closing.

Thanks for that info. I'm sure the protrusion is .03, maybe more. I think the problem was light strikes. After 35 years of maybe 500 rds/year, it was tired. The spring seems very stout so hoping "gunk flush" did the trick. I wouldn't know how to "set protrusion" without grinding that bottom portion of th firing pin cone. Like I started off I ain't a gunsmith. Field stripping is my limit, I use my Dremel on things other than guns. Joe

 

[Tex1001]

For future reference, I would bet that Wolff has something that
could be adapted.

 

[clang444]

If the bolt is that difficult to take apart, the first thing to try is take the bolt outside and spray brake cleaner into every hole. A heavy application can work wonders.

 

[Narragansett]

Thanks for that info. I'm sure the protrusion is .03, maybe more. I think the problem was light strikes. After 35 years of maybe 500 rds/year, it was tired. The spring seems very stout so hoping "gunk flush" did the trick. I wouldn't know how to "set protrusion" without grinding that bottom portion of th firing pin cone. Like I started off I ain't a gunsmith. Field stripping is my limit, I use my Dremel on things other than guns. Joe

You have 17, 500 rounds through that and it shoots well? One might think the bore might be getting a bit suspect

 

[Ameshawki]

And this is why I don't work on cars anymore. All I accomplish is to get ticked off and bleeding.

 

[pharmer]

You have 17, 500 rounds through that and it shoots well? One might thing the bore might be getting a bit suspect

I have been known to "overestimate." Probably half that. Joe

 

[Bald1]

I'm assuming the Zastava Mini Mauser action is not a traditional 98 design. The original 98 Mauser bolt can be disassembled in a few seconds.

They call it a mini Mauser because it looks like a Mauser action. I was going to buy one a few years ago. My research indicated they look like a Mauser action but don't function (operate) the same. They apparently are very rough when new. Reviews seem mixed. Either you get a shooter or you don't.

 

[Pisgah]

I'm assuming the Zastava Mini Mauser action is not a traditional 98 design. The original 98 Mauser bolt can be disassembled in a few seconds.

The bolt arrangement is common to many sporter versions of 98-based designs, essentially requiring the same steps for disassembly, but accomplished by different means -- if that makes sense. More akin to a Remington 700 bolt disassembly than a military 98.

It looks and works like a cute l'il 98 except for the bolt takedown.

 

[pharmer]

..... Reviews seem mixed. Either you get a shooter or you don't.

It is a great shooter. However,the action is not smooth at all unlike an 8mm "sporterized" 98 I had in the 20th century. And it hasn't improved with thousands of cycles. I once shot a 5 shot group at 100yds with 4 touching and 1 "flyer" 1/4" below the others. I can't duplicate that today. Joe