I found it completed photo

[steelslaver]

I have a nickel 6" Python barrel and a recessed nickel model 19 cylinder and been looking for a frame either nickel or blue to make another Smolt. About a year ago, I found a nickel 15 that had a problem with the front sight ramp being pushed back. Bought it, but it was to easy to fix it and have it be a nice factory nickel gun. Couldn't bring myself to modify it. Kept eye balling my finish warn 15-3 and nice 14-3, but, once again couldn't pull the trigger on them. My wife had a road trip to the state capitol and I went along. While she was in her meeting, I went pawn shopping and then to gun stores. Nothing until, I walk into the last one I could find on my phone and there it is. A 2" model 15-2 complete with black paint, including the hammer and trigger. Also, included was a evidence number lightly electro penciled onto bottom of trigger guard and inside frame window above cylinder. It screamed, save me please. Mechanically fine. Marked $399, the clerk sees my corporal Chevron tattoo and gives me a Semper FI. Another piece of the green machine. I ask for best deal and he said it has been here to long now. I walked with it for a total of $329. I can re blue the barrel and use it to up grade my model
I will strip the frame, polish off the evidence marks, give it a new blue job, fit the nickel Python barrel and nickel 19 cylinder and have a pinto Smolt

Stay tuned for pictures of how I do it

 

[Retired W4]

Now THAT is a project !!

 

[Green Frog]

I just made the following post on the Semiauto Forum in reference to a beautiful semiautomatic my friend guzzitaco is building;

"There are two categories of custom guns, IMHO. The first type has one or several radical changes and is obviously a custom to all who see it. The second type simply enhances the features that are already there, just making subtle changes that inspire the viewer to wonder where the original leaves off and the custom work begins. Customs of this sort take the best of the existing design then carry it further. To my eye, this gun has successfully taken the original design and carried it to a highly personal level..."

Now you come along and propose a perfect example of what I referred to as the First Type, a custom with radical modifications that could never be confused as original, but which add to the quality of the final product. I'll be looking forward to your progress reports.

Regards,
Froggie

 

[robvious]

I am not a big fan of owning custom firearms.. but I am looking forward to seeing this one.. sounds awesome

 

[steelslaver]

I am not a big fan of owning custom firearms.. but I am looking forward to seeing this one.. sounds awesome

I get it. It probably will not shoot a bit better than any other of my 357s. It will be more interesting though and give me something to spend some time on in the mornings.

Besides not having any Colts and ending up with a Python barrel what choice did I really have?

 

[CH4]

Popping some corn

 

[GerSan69]

I get it. It probably will not shoot a bit better than any other of my 357s.

Well, the story back when these mashups were popular was that the different rifling twist of the Colt barrel made it more accurate than the S&W, so maybe it will!

 

[steelslaver]

Here is my prize with spray can paint job

evidence number on bottom of trigger guard

In pieces

In my home made frame wrench

Barrel off

punches and blocks

Brass vise jaws

Python barrel and 19 cylinder

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

A true oldschool gunsmith makes his own tools like you have (barrel wrench, punch blocks) and takes on such projects. There is no doubt that we all can't wait to see the outcome!

 

[steelslaver]

I now have it completely apart.
I sttuck all the exterior parts with paint on them in a big coffee can and filled it with zip strip and waited 30 min. Poured zip strip back in its can and sprayed everything down in my utility sink.

Although the trigger case hardening survived, but, the hammer has some shiny spots, so another hammer is in order. The cylinder has some real light pits which I can polish out and use it on something else. The barrel is in great shape other than missing a lot of blue.

The frame is good EXCEPT right where the grips were it has some pits. I am sure I could sand them out on thumb piece side. But, on the side plate, I am pretty sure I wouldn't have much trademark left if I went all the way on that side. Right now I am kind of on the fence. make every thing fit and run, get the frame nice as I can except for the worst of the pits, blue it and hide the pits with some nice grips? Go ahead and clean it off and lose the Trade mark? Have it re stamped? Find and fit another side plate? Tig weld up all the little pits and refinish.

Clean it all up as good as possible, blue it and have another shooter 2" K frame.

I am leaning hard to proceed and do what I can do. Enjoy it and deal with what is hidden under the grips in the future

 

[steelslaver]

So I installed the side plate on the frame and took it to the blast cabinet and gave it a going over with glass beads. Once I blue it I should get some serious contrast between it and the shiny nickel barrel and cylinder. Most of the little rust pits won't show and the worst ones will be under grips. I also had the yoke in frame with the cylinder tube covered by tape, but, that later turned out to be a waste of time. When I went to use the recessed 19 cylinder I quickly found the 15 had a gas rig on yoke set up. Scrounged thorough my parts and found a nice yoke that fit well and had to blast it latter. I also had to file the frame lug way back as the 19 cylinder is recessed, so frame needed another trip to blast cabinet to dull the shiny from filing.
Here are some pictures.
S&W K frames have .540-36 threads and Pythons have either .562 32 or .562 36 threads. I have a jig to center barrels in lathe and once in the lathe I simply took the very tops off the python threads so it measured .540. I also put a slight taper on end of barrel shank to help my die start. I use a jiog setup to make sure I start straight. The brass button has a long brass rod on it that just fits down an 357 barrel. By placing my die on the barrel, then the thin stainless washer and then inserting the brass piece the die is held perfectly flat and true to the bore when you start it.

I also clean up the frame threads with a tap.

I turned the die on the barrel a couple times to smooth out the threads as it was a bit tight when I first tried it. Then, I couldn't believe how close to timing it ended up. It came up hard right here. LUCK

A little pressure on the frame wrench to torque it and perfect.
Then. I have to file a flat on bottom of barrel to clearance yoke and gas ring. I also got an idea on how much extra barrel shank I had by swinging the 19 cylinder into it. Went back to lathe to clean of extra threads that showed in frame window, then a trip to mill to take of a bit of barrel shank, so I did not have to cut so much by hand. Also because Colt has those skinny ejector rods with the big tip their slot is too skinny for a Smith rod. So. I opened up the channel in barrel shroud for a S&W rod using a 1/4" ball nose end mill. Then back to the bench, install barrel timed and go to work with this tool to dial in B/C gap.

Turn, try, turn, try, turn, try. But, once it slips by I finish with a fine file with safed edges held dead flat. The cutter leaves tiny chatter marks and the file does not. Then change out the cutter for a 11 degree forcing cone cutter as I removed over an 1/8" of the barrel extension and barrels original forcing cone. A brass lap with some fine valve grinding compound polishes it up.

TA DA

It all fits. Give the frame a 25 minute bath in 285 degree blueing salts and put the guts back in it and adjust them. I will also drill the yoke and install a ball detent for forward lock up. I also have to round up a front sight blade that fits. The leaf it the back sight that was on the 15 was all banged up do it is being replaced to. Figuring blade heights out will take a range trip or 2.

Here is a 4" Smolt I did using a J&G frame.

It will be going in the blue tank also

I get as much enjoyment out of working on them as shooting them.

 

[Model 10-8]

Great pictures. What brand of camera?

 

[steelslaver]

LOL the camera is a small inexpensive thing I bought because it was waterproof and I wanted one to take pictures floating the creek. I have started using in the shop because it does pretty good and I don't have to worry about something happening to it.

 

[Jebus35745]

Nicely done, you make it look easy. Let us know how it shoots, Larry

 

[lilwoody]

I would like to know how that 15 frame holds up to the 357s. When I built my Frankensmith the research I did said it wouldnt be a good idea to run magnum rounds in a 15 frame. So I went with a mode 10 cylinder

 

[steelslaver]

I content that a modern model 14 or 15 frame is no different than a model 19 frame. I have a model 10-2. It was my learn how to work on S&Ws gun. I have cut the frame for adjustable sights which should have made it weaker, it has a model 19 cylinder, first using a 4" 38 barrel then a 2 1/2" 357 barrel. It also has a lot of full blown 357 rounds though it with no ill effects and it has not developed any endshake which it would if the frame was stretching.

If you don't think a steel model 15 frame will take 357s let me ask you about the model 360. A J frame scandium/aluminum alloy 357. Less metal with a lower tensile strength. The best aluminum/scandium alloys approach 350MPa when heat treated, 4140 has a tensile strength of 415MPa from the mill. Notice how you see cylinders of 4140 and titanium but, never any of scandium alloy? There is a reason for that.

I have never seen nor heard of a frame blowing up without the cylinder letting go. Yes, they crack in the yoke cut under the barrel. Model 19s have done this as well as 10s, 15s, alloy guns and J frames. More of a design flaw than anything else. But to keep 6 rounds in a small enough pattern S&W was stuck with a tight area above the yoke and the flat on bottom of barrel.

People can talk about the strength of a non magnum frame all day long, but I have never seen any evidence they would not put up with magnum rounds. In fact more than a few model 10s and 15s had their 38 cylinders reamed to 357 magnum. Where are the blown up guns?

 

[lilwoody]

Thanks, I suppose I'll be looking for a 66 or 19 cylinder. I have another idea for the mod cylinder

 

[Green Frog]

Threads like this are fun for to me to read. They really get the old creative juices flowing. BTW, 1983 called… they want their PPC gun back!

After I made my pronouncement about the two levels of customization, I had to ask myself was my Project 616 part of category one because it looks factory or category two because it's unlike any actual factory model?

Froggie

 

[steelslaver]

I think making a gun of an caliber that is hard or impossible to find falls somewhere in between. It may look factory, but one you start reaming cylinders, replacing barrels your in a different class than, slicked up triggers, modified safety releases, sight modifications, grips etc.

This gun started life as a fix sight 10-7 with a 2" barrel, it is now a 6" 327 mag with adjustable sights. The Out side of the barrel is simply a "sleeve" on a piece of 32-20 rifle barrel. But it looks like a model 14.

What class is it?

I keep thinking about making a full blown PPC gun. I have some N frames and some heavy 45 barrel. Shorten an 45 acp cylinder to a bit longer than factory 45acp. 1" OD barrel, Bomar rib. Slick everything up and have just enough spring to set off the primers. You could go all the way and make the cylinder just long enough for acp wad cutters, butt semi wad cutters load easier in clips.

But, now days my hands tremble no matter what and although I can manage a pie plate at 25 yards DA with both hands, my weak hand and 50 yard target would suck even with the worlds best gun. I meet with some other guys every Tuesday night and we shoot 40-50 rounds at various setups. I can hit the targets, but I won't win no prizes. I am the only revolver guy and I bring a different one every week to keep them guessing.

Last week I even put 5 rounds on target (a 8 1/2 x11 sheet of paper) with my gun belt buckle at 7 1/2 yards.

 

[steelslaver]

Crummy weather so other than going to the local memorial we did nothing special.

I only set my blue tanks up outside when it is decent so that was out

Only thing I could do was get the yoke ready for installing a ball detent.
I have the basic kit from Power Custom. I made my own stop for the 1/8" drill using a piece of brass round stock and a small set screw.

They sell a jig to line it up, butt as I have a 4 way vice on my drill press I use it. I get one axis of vice line up on center with drills column so using it doesn't change side to side. I use a regular 1/8 drill to get centered side to side. As you can see there is no room for error on a K frame yoke

Then I move back to center front to back on yoke and drill the hole with stop set for a .250 depth
It is so close that my rod drug a bit going in and out of hole as drilling the hole cause a tiny bulge in rods hole. A couple twists with a reamer and its all good. It happened when I did the yoke on my 4'' Smolt too. More room on a N frame.

Anyway next step is put a spring in hole, a 1/8" ball on it, press down with the cupped punch and give it a wack with a small hammer to displace enough metal at top of hole to trap the ball.

I will not do that until I blue the yoke as some blue solution could get trapped behind the ball and make it sticky even though after the blue take parts go into boiling water with baking soda then soak over night in Ed's Red oil solution.

Once the ball is locked in place I will install it in frame using side plated screw but minus the cylinder. Then I will coat the top of Yoke cut under barrel with Prussian blue and open and close the yoke a couple times. The ball will put a line in Prussian blue where it rides and right past the end of that line I will use a small ball cutter in Dremel tool to make a pocket for the ball to enter. I will close and open yoke to feel if the ball moves in going a bit deeper and closer to where ball's travel ends so my pocket holds the ball and yoke as tight as possible.

By the way the cut for the rod on the Python barrel is a bit short for a normal S&W rod so I polished up and am going to use a slightly shorter stainless one I have. I am using a center pin from a 2" gun as with no barrel lug to press out all you need it for is to hold the small spring and have it engage the hole in recoil shield and lock rear of cylinder and press the bolt back.