Ideas on washable furnace/HVAC filters

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Have been using the replaceable (every 3 months) filters for my HVAC. Use the medium levels as no problems with allergies etc.

Thinking about trying the filters that can be washed and reused. Would appreciate ideas as to brands etc., problems and positive points.

Thinking about replacing present heat pump with higher (15-18) seer newer unit and adding a filter at the intake side of the distributer. (Present unit is a 4 ton 15 year old about 10-11 seer.)

Ideas and warnings appreciated.
 
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I've been using the blue fiberglass type "washable" filters. Heck if I know how to get them completely clean. They gather dust that doesn't come off easily, whether beating it or washing it.
I've had AC guys say that pleated filters kill units because they starve them of air flow.
The cheap fiberglass filters aren't as easy to find these days
 
Home Depot sells a "customizable" $20 washable high efficiency (need that for airflow). Cut it to fit and snap in the 4 pins. It's the only one that stays put and doesn't get sucked up into the coils when the 4 ton unit fires up. Joe
 
Home Depot sells a "customizable" $20 washable high efficiency (need that for airflow). Cut it to fit and snap in the 4 pins. It's the only one that stays put and doesn't get sucked up into the coils when the 4 ton unit fires up. Joe

That's the one I got a couple years ago. Works great and cleans easily with water hose, stand up, let drip and dry, re-install and she's good to go for another three months. :)
 
I would advise anyone using a washable filter to hold take it outside and hold it up to the sun to check for interior splotches. These splotches indicate mold growing in between layers of the filter.
I've found mold growing in EVERY brand of washable filter over the years.
I always recommend a good HEPA rated filter to my customers.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
 
I would advise anyone using a washable filter to hold take it outside and hold it up to the sun to check for interior splotches. These splotches indicate mold growing in between layers of the filter.
I've found mold growing in EVERY brand of washable filter over the years.
I always recommend a good HEPA rated filter to my customers.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.

Yeah, what he said!
 
I never felt that the washable filters were as efficient as the paper filters at removing airborne particulates. The blue or green fiber glass filters also don't capture as much dust as the paper filters.

It's not so much that I want pure air blowing into the house, that's part of it, but I want to keep the inner workings of the system as clean as possible.
 
On replacing your A/C unit with a higher efficiency system. There is no free lunch! If you go with a refrigerant in the 400 series like Puron (R-410) you will most likely need a new furnace/air handler. The pressures run much higher and we found in Ohio, the compressors barely out live the warranty. If you stick with the R-22 or the replacements, high efficiency comes by increasing coil surface area and considerably more refrigerant inside the system. Once again it may require a new furnace/ air handler. The outside units are often more than twice the size of the original. The dollar savings verses the energy is a balance based on the expected life of the unit verses the real life span. (Will it save enough energy to pay for it self before it dies-or needs major repairs)

My brother and I owed a 140 unit apartment complex for 34 years. I did the Air Conditioner repairs and replacements (I am EPA certified) so labor costs were minimal. When we had it built in the mid 1970's, we had Rheem/Rudd unit installed as unit failed they were replace with a verity of brands. We found that the Rheem units out lasted most all of the replacement brands. It became economically most efficient to rebuild the 1974-5 unit than to buy any other brand. In the times of year when parts are in short supply we bought the more expensive Rheem units.

Ivan
 
BoAir! They're very well-made, can be made to virtually any size (within reason), and have an antimicrobal treatment. The only caveats are the downtime necessitated by a monthly flush with water and the initial investment of about $70 or so, but you can mitigate the former by keeping a spare in rotation if you've got the money. They're about the equivalent of a MERV 8 pleated filter, but I haven't felt my allergies flare up since I started using it. To be fair though, my air handler originally had a hog's hair pad which didn't filter much. :rolleyes:

A 13 or 14 SEER heat pump is more than adequate. Any higher, and you're looking at much higher upfront and repair costs, plus it'll be a long time before it pays for itself with any potential energy savings (typically well past the lifespan of the equipment). My heat pump is a 13 SEER "value" model (previous owners picked it, not me) and it does a great job of heating and cooling without running up my electric bill too much (last bill was for 1k kWh with a LOT of cooling cycles, and electric stove/dryer/water heater). I might replace it with something similar when the time comes.

Bit of advice? Get a chemical sprayer with Viton seals and foaming coil cleaner along with some proper PPE and clean your coils yourself; you'll save a little money on your maintenance costs. Just remember to shut the disconnect for the condensor off first. :)
 
Want to thank all for the input. This is obviously not a 'Cut & Dry" decision. Will do additional investigation for more info/ideas. Hopefully others have gained some insight in this area in addition to me.
 
Very interesting. Always thought they should seal the area under the Ac unit. The unit inside the hallway in a closet. Never tried to do anything like you did. But thought it would increase the vacuum in that area and pull dust from the other areas of the home.
 
I have a Traine unit with the variable speed air handler-15 sear-best I have ever had. We got it with the 5 inch filter that goes on the air handler-but abandoned it because all of the dirt has to go all the way through the duct system to get to the filter(?) We have two returns, and put one of the "medium" pleated filters on each, once a month. This has worked the best for us-had those washable deals in the past-OK for rental prop where they may not buy filters. We buy filters on sale by the case. I'm in Fla where A/C is serious stuff!
 
I have 2 close friends that are HVAC guys and both say to use the cheap fiberglass ones and change them every 3 months, they say the washable and the high % filters restrict airflow causing your unit to run longer thus wearing it out quicker. I shouldn't say this but mine is 17 years old and has had 1 capacitor replaced and works great, knock on wood.
 
I have 2 close friends that are HVAC guys and both say to use the cheap fiberglass ones and change them every 3 months, they say the washable and the high % filters restrict airflow causing your unit to run longer thus wearing it out quicker. I shouldn't say this but mine is 17 years old and has had 1 capacitor replaced and works great, knock on wood.

I used to recommend every other month in a heating season. Change them on holidays. Jan 1, Valentines Day, April 15 [not a holiday but memorable], Flag day,Labor Day [never lived where you needed AC], and 4th weekend in Oct [opening week of hunting season.
 
Use and old wool sweater. Wash and cut it to size of your return. Place it between a cheap 99 cent filter and the return grille. It breathes easy and can be washed whenever you like.
 
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