Identification help please
- Thread starter Dartshark
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texmex
Member
Looks like it is a First Model 32 Hand Ejector Model 1896. Congratulations. It appears to be in excellent condition.
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What you've got there is actually the first S&W to be known as a "Hand Ejector", by virtue if its swing out cylinder and hand operated ejector rod. I believe the full name at the time was the Model of 1896 .32 Hand Ejector.
Mark
Mark
I think texmex and mark have told you the model. It was made prior to 1901. The star behind the serial number indicates that it was returned to the factory for refinish/repair. If you remove the left grip and check the lower front of frame, there will be a date code such as 11.21 or 11 21 to indicate when the work was done.
Nice find! Congrats.
Nice find! Congrats.
DWalt
Member
The accepted guidance is that all 1896 frames were made prior to 1899 regardless of when they were shipped from the factory. Therefore, all are considered as antiques by BATFE, so they are not regulated under GCA-1968.
These are not often encountered in high condition. The small number I have personally seen were in more like "relic" condition.
These are not often encountered in high condition. The small number I have personally seen were in more like "relic" condition.
That's a beauty! Here is a known nearby ship date:
.32 hand ejector, 1st serial 6443 was shipped in June 1901.
.32 hand ejector, 1st serial 6443 was shipped in June 1901.
Interesting! I didn't realize that S&W stamped information on the cylinder. Nice find!
On the Model of 1896. It was the only HE with that feature.
That's a beauty! You'll also notice that .32 S&W Long CTG is not stamped on the gun anywhere.
A little Flitz or Mother's Mag Wheel polish will make the nickel look almost new.
A little Flitz or Mother's Mag Wheel polish will make the nickel look almost new.
Not in my arena of what I currently buy because I don't have enough knowledge, but I sure do love too see these old things. Who knows, maybe one day I just might own a few. Thanks for sharing!
OP
Thanks for all the knowledge!!
I removed the grip and found a 5.13 stamped there.
May of 1913? What would May of 2013 be stamped?
Would a letter tell me about the refinish/repair?
Thanks again.
I removed the grip and found a 5.13 stamped there.
May of 1913? What would May of 2013 be stamped?
Would a letter tell me about the refinish/repair?
Thanks again.
Yes, May of 1913.
A letter would not tell you about the refinish/repair, but it is a prerequisite for an inquiry to the Historical Foundation (SWHF) for such information. That said, it's unlikely the SWHF could access without knowing the name of the person who sent it in. On the other hand, IF it was shipped to an individual, and IF that individual is the one who sent it in, then wonders never cease.
Ralph Tremaine
And I have no idea of what a mark indicating a 2013 service might be---also don't know if they still use such markings. I suspect/imagine they do, but given the computer age, and the ease of establishing/accessing a computer record of such things, your guess is as good as mine.
A letter would not tell you about the refinish/repair, but it is a prerequisite for an inquiry to the Historical Foundation (SWHF) for such information. That said, it's unlikely the SWHF could access without knowing the name of the person who sent it in. On the other hand, IF it was shipped to an individual, and IF that individual is the one who sent it in, then wonders never cease.
Ralph Tremaine
And I have no idea of what a mark indicating a 2013 service might be---also don't know if they still use such markings. I suspect/imagine they do, but given the computer age, and the ease of establishing/accessing a computer record of such things, your guess is as good as mine.
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Great find!
The factory did not ship in serial number order and this model was not a big seller, so they are all over the place in the early years of this model. Most likely there were well over 6000 made the first year of production and maybe all 19,712 serial number stamped frames were made before 1899. Therefore, for example, serial number 7000 could have left the factory earlier than serial number 2000. I have three examples in that range, 6443, 6575, and 6889. They shipped, in 06/1901, 08/1899, and 06/1898 respectively, backwards of the numbers.
This model was made in serial number range 1- 19712, from 1896 to 1903. Thas means that an average of less than 3000 were made each of the 7 years of production. The Model 1903 replaced them. The value of this model is still in flux, there are fewer and fewer bargains out there now, but your revolver could sell for as little as $500 and as much as over $1000 today. They were available in 3 standard barrel lengths - 3 1/4", 4 1/2" and 6".
The factory did not ship in serial number order and this model was not a big seller, so they are all over the place in the early years of this model. Most likely there were well over 6000 made the first year of production and maybe all 19,712 serial number stamped frames were made before 1899. Therefore, for example, serial number 7000 could have left the factory earlier than serial number 2000. I have three examples in that range, 6443, 6575, and 6889. They shipped, in 06/1901, 08/1899, and 06/1898 respectively, backwards of the numbers.
This model was made in serial number range 1- 19712, from 1896 to 1903. Thas means that an average of less than 3000 were made each of the 7 years of production. The Model 1903 replaced them. The value of this model is still in flux, there are fewer and fewer bargains out there now, but your revolver could sell for as little as $500 and as much as over $1000 today. They were available in 3 standard barrel lengths - 3 1/4", 4 1/2" and 6".
Attachments
Two tidbits you might find helpful:
1. If you find a tiny N stamped by the grip locator pin on the left side of the grip frame, that would indicate your gun was originally nickel plated when new. If no N, it was originally blued which means it's likely that it went back to the factory in 2.13 for a change to a nickel finish.
2. If you remove the yoke for cleaning use caution when pulling it forward from the frame so you do not lose the cyl hold open detent pin in the bottom of the yoke hinge. Disassembling inside a large zip lock bag is the safest.
